TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun May 17, 2009 12:40 am

I have been using PB blaster and part of a choke cable for a couple days with no results; besides brake cleaner is there anything better? Carb cleaner?

I've heard of people using acetone, its more of a cleaner dissolver, where the PB is more of a lubericant. If you have air compresser you could try that and see if its letting anything thru.

Sun May 17, 2009 2:56 am

BUGTHUG wrote: outoftheoffice wrote: I have been using PB blaster and part of a choke cable for a couple days with no results; besides brake cleaner is there anything better? Carb cleaner?

I've heard of people using acetone, its more of a cleaner dissolver, where the PB is more of a lubericant. If you have air compresser you could try that and see if its letting anything thru.
Absolutely. Acetone and compressed air are usually the correct weapons for clogged gas lines, as you're typically trying to dissolve and then purge varnished gas.

I use wash bottle to dribble acetone down the line regularly for at least a full day. Polypro is generally fine for acetone at room temp, but to be safe I don't keep acetone stored long term in any plastic. Also be sure it doesn't get hot (e.g. left out in the sun), as acetone will degrade poly at higher temps.

Wash bottles are really handy to have around, by the way. I keep a few separate for fuel, isopropanol, and acetone.

You can start with a normal gun to blow air through the fitting after the acetone soak. If you're lucky, you'll start to clear the line right away. If not, repeat the whole thing a few times. If there's still no progress, you can pressurize the line against the obstruction to help free it. Clamp a barbed-x-quick connect air fitting to a piece of fuel hose, and clamp the hose on the fuel line. Pressurize slowly and see if you're making any progress. I wouldn't go past 75 or 80 psi though.

I also like to pressure check lines that have been sitting for a long time, whether I had needed to unclog them or not. Cap one end with a gauge, put 75psi in the line, and see if it holds it for a day.

I have cleared quite a few lines like this with no troubles. (Of course, you are responsible for being alert and smart about safety issues, and use these ideas at your own risk. :wink: :) )

Sun May 17, 2009 4:30 am

Before I saw the replies I picked up some chemtool carb cleaner, let that soak since last night. If I'm still not getting anywhere by tomorrow I'll switch to the acetone. thanks!

Sun May 17, 2009 4:40 pm

When I did mine it took a few hours so be patient. It might not seem like your getting anywhere but you really are.

Tue May 19, 2009 3:54 am

Got the line cleared! Only problem is I can't tell which helped more because I had two different solvents in the tube at the same time - Chemtool carb cleaner and acetone.

Just using the chemtool and compressed air now to clean out any last bits of grit and grime before I drop the tank back in.

Tue May 19, 2009 6:19 am

I guess it really doesn't matter as long as you got it cleared. 8) I would flush it out a couple times just be sure all the debris is gone.

Tue May 19, 2009 7:32 am

And, install a filter between the frame and the engine, over the trans. Be prepared to change it a couple times right away, when you start driving the car.

Tue May 19, 2009 8:16 am

Yea, doesn't matter now that it is free but for future reference it would have been nice to know which to recomend.

Russ Wolfe wrote: And, install a filter between the frame and the engine, over the trans. Be prepared to change it a couple times right away, when you start driving the car.

Already installed one there!

Tue May 19, 2009 2:19 pm

Congrats! Even after mine was cleared I kept flushing it and you just keep getting stuff out. It's crazy.

Hey guys, here is a new question. I have heard a few people talk about "4"beam and some dropped spindles" And stuff like that.
What are those?

Tue May 19, 2009 2:34 pm

Oh, and one more question/advice.
I have been looking at replacing the bumpers on my bug and I was wondering why there is such a large gap in prices between Wolfsburg and jbugs? They are even both triple chrome.

Tue May 19, 2009 3:25 pm

4" beam is narrowed 4" oaver all width. 2.5" spindles are drop spindles. You can drop your ride 2.5" w/ them, and keep a decent ride. WW bumpers are a much better quality than what J-Bugs puts out. Remember...........you get what you pay for. :wink:

Tue May 19, 2009 6:59 pm

What do you mean "4" beam is narrowed 4" oaver all width."?

WW is a little expensive for my taste and if you get what you pay for, do you think that midamerica would be like the middle of the field?

Tue May 19, 2009 7:05 pm

si fly wrote:

WW is a little expensive for my taste and if you get what you pay for, do you think that midamerica would be like the middle of the field?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=214863&highlight=midamerica

Tue May 19, 2009 8:06 pm

Well, I can see that they are not liked very much but are they selling worse quality bumpers than jbugs? I am less woried about the money I guess that I thought. I want a good quality though when I do replace the stock bumpers.
Know what I'm saying?

Tue May 19, 2009 10:16 pm

Mid-America won't see a dime of mine.....period.

Wed May 20, 2009 3:07 am

If you are going with stock bumpers I would try and find a good used pair of original bumpers off another bug.

True, WW does has some of the best quality reproduction parts out there (that's why they are more expensive-and worth it) and I'm sure they are good bumpers but they still aren't as good/strong/long lasting as a set of originals.

You'll want to do a search on lowering your VW (there are plenty of other threads) but a 4" beam is a beam that has had 2" cut off of each side. The end result is the front axle width being reduced a total of 4". Other common widths include 2" and 6"

Wed May 20, 2009 2:09 pm

That really clears it up for me, thanks.

Well the original bumpers are really staight with no dents or anything but on the top part of the bumpers the chrome it coming off a little and rusting. Not bad, but it is not good for sure.

Do you guys know how much it costs to get parts re-chromed?

Wed May 20, 2009 3:01 pm

First find a plater- lots have gone away beacuse of the EPA
When you find one, price shipping the parts round trip
Get a quote from the plater

Chrome is expensive.

Be glad you're not looking at a 50's US car

If its suface rust you might try a scrub pad, lime away, and elbow grease. If the rust comes off, then rinse, dry and then wax the hell out of them.

Wed May 20, 2009 3:10 pm

I e-mailed a company from the internet and they guessed it would cost about $2200 That seems crazy to me, but I have never looked into getting it re-dipped.

That it the reason I have been looking at just buying new bumpers. Even WW (the most expensive and most likely best quality) would cost about $1000 new.

I'm just weighing the options.

Thu May 21, 2009 3:56 am

Depending on the condition of yours, you could probably sell them for some decent money (maybe +/- $200/each if they are in fact original VW bumpers in good shape) to help fund some new ones. I don't know chrome pricing but $2200 for dipping those bumpers is just crazy.

A little rust on the top? Man, just slap those suckers on and roll them! You can replace them when they start lookin like swiss cheese.