TheSamba.com :: View topic - Type 3 Truck

Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:16 pm

Nice 8) Some flat lens would look 8)

Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:45 am

Sunday was the Fall Meet-up at the XXX in Issaquah.
Overall, the truck drove well - gotta get that gas gauge working :!:
Weather was great and meeting and greeting was nice- pretty much the last show of the season around here.

Home on the ferry-

Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:23 am

Such a nice looking ride! I have gone thru your whole thread and its good inspiration to get my truck started!

Mon Sep 25, 2017 3:32 pm

Thanks!
Good luck with the Ghia/T3/Truck :!:

Tue Sep 26, 2017 10:00 am

dc wrote: Re-worked the bed cover to reduce weight and used black convertible top material instead of the vinyl.

Took it to a mini-truck show :shock: :lol: :!:

I like it. 8) It looks finished compared to the competition. :twisted:
The black and cream colors work well with it too. Nice job on it. =D>

Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:56 pm

Working on the Wide Five Project.
Got the drums switched on the rear...they fit nice! Those are the FRONT tires that you see on the rear right now. Waiting on some taller tires to be mounted and then I will continue with the converting of the front :!:

In the end, the front and rear will get a mild lowering--- 175 55 in front and 185 65 in the rear --- remember, those are 14" wheels :)

Thu Nov 02, 2017 12:50 pm

Looks Awesome! Getting caps for the wheels or gonna rock the black steelies as is?

Thu Nov 02, 2017 4:18 pm

Just gonna run without caps- removed all the clips before powder coating :D
The drums are super cleaned and detailed- I want to highlight the pin wheels- got the 185s mounted and bolted to the rear. Next is taking apart the front end😬

Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:43 am

That truck has come a long way since the 2012 Invasion in CO. Good work! 8)

Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:06 pm

Ready for some feedback and advice on the Wide 5 conversion.
This weekend, I finally started converting the front end:

I had NOS tie rod ends in my stash - so that was good. Everything came off the car OK (the four lug parts) and the five lug stuff is going on well so far.

I'm missing some parts - :(

I need star adjusters for each wheel cylinder
What about the spindle/shaft itself? I've got the keyed washer and retaining nut - but shouldn't there be another washer and/or adjusting nut?
What about my bearings? They are already in my drums (not pictured) - they look OK - but I'm not sure of their history - Should they be replaced or re-packed - ?

How many sets of bearings are there?

What about my pad springs- they look a little short - whats the the sequence of putting this together?
What about the brake fluid line? I was careful not to damage them- but what the recommended order of operations to re-assemble?

I have the '64 Clymer's manual and I'm reading carefully - but sometime you all explain it better :D

Excited to get this back together! :!:

Sun Dec 03, 2017 6:39 pm

Ok- A virtual trip to ISP West is helping me see the parts I need...
definitely need to order bearings and misc. hardware.

Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:42 pm

How about these parts from ISP?

OIL SEAL
311405641
$14.95 X 2 = $29.90

LOCK PLATE NEW
311405681
TYPE: NEW
$0.95 X 2 = $1.90

BEARING
311405625A
$9.95 X 2 = $19.90 Looks like OUTER in pictures BUT just about the same number as J-Bugs listed INNER - see below

NUT
N111643
$4.95 - This is the left-hand thread spindle nut - I already have ONE - do I need TWO and the right side as well?

AND these parts from J-Bugs:

VW Inner Front Wheel Bearing, Beetle, Ghia 1966-68, Type 3 62-68
Part Number: 311405625
2 X $10.95 = $21.90

VW Front Brake Hose, 440mm M/F, Beetle, Ghia 1965-66, Bus 55-67, Type 3 62-67, Thing 73-74
Part Number: 211611701
2 X $14.95 = $29.90 (My current hoses are for the '71 set-up - maybe a bit short?)

VW Brake Adjusting Nut, Each
Part Number: 113609205A
4 X $5.95 = $23.80 Will these fit a '63 Type 3 Wheel cylinder?

VW Drum Brake Adjusting Screw, Each
Part Number: 131609209
4 X $3.95 = $15.80 Will these fit?

Are there plastic/rubber seals for the inner and out bearings that I'm missing?

Sun Dec 03, 2017 10:09 pm

If you're sticking with 1964 spindle nuts - you need two per spindle because they're essentially jam nuts. I've probably got a pile of them I'm not going to use - for $5, I'll send you my stash so you have spares. I've swapped to disc brakes so I don't need them.

I probably have most/all of what you need - including the bearings...I'll have a look in the AM and let you know if you're interested.

Sun Dec 03, 2017 10:14 pm

That would be SO appreciated! 8)
Looks like I only have one good bearing (out of four) -it's an outer.

Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:57 am

dc wrote: That would be SO appreciated! 8)
Looks like I only have one good bearing (out of four) -it's an outer.

Sent you a PM.

Tue Dec 05, 2017 7:38 am

looking good! its come a long way since the 2012 invasion. good work!

Tue Dec 05, 2017 10:18 am

Came across this thread while thinking about that ´64 truck for sale in Idaho..
Very nice build you have! I like how you maintained a stock feel while doing something completely custom. Did you keep the red dash?

Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:34 pm

Yep!
Still have the red dash.

I feel for our friend in Idaho with the '64 Truck (like mine!) - I know he needs to sell it. If I didn't already have one :roll: or had more room...

Thu Dec 07, 2017 5:21 pm

Thanks for some more of the parts I need to Josh!

OK-
Do I have what I need?
Here's the order of parts working outward from the axle/spindle-

Oil Seal
Inner Race
Inner Bearing
the drum itself!
Outer Race
Outer Bearing
Thrust Washer
Nut
Lock Plate
Nut
Hub Cap

Is there a spacer before the seal, like on the early Beetle spindles?

I've been reading the procedures for packing the bearings and adjusting the tension on the outer nuts and hardware. Should have all the parts gathered to get this together this weekend...

EXCEPT - pressing out the old races and pressing in the new ones. Not sure about how that goes.

Thu Dec 07, 2017 5:32 pm

That box showed up awfully quick!

I used to use an old socket to drive out the old bearing races until I decided to spend the money on a tool designed for the job. If there's a Harbor Freight near you - it might be worth it to buy the tool since you can also use it to install the new races in the drums. Or you can do it using a socket that's the same OD as the ID of the drum and sits flat on the race (around the rim).

Here's a diagram that you may find useful for assembly: