Buttafuoco |
Mon May 18, 2009 7:33 pm |
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I need to get my carbs syncronized ASAP as I'm in a bind and need to get the car running and have no sync tool handy at the immediate moment. They are weber 34ict's. They worked pretty good for the most part then I started f**king with the what I believe is the mixture screw and all went bad. Can anyone lend some knowledge. |
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notchboy |
Mon May 18, 2009 7:43 pm |
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Different carb but the dialing in of the webber is the same.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/t3dualcarbtuning/index.php
The webber dosnt have a choke or elctro cut offs. So concentrate on the fuel air volume mix and the idle. |
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BSQUARE |
Tue May 19, 2009 5:51 am |
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In leiu of the synch tool, you can use a 2 or 3' section of small diameter flexible hose (fuel line, vinyl tubing, etc. I use a stethoscope with the 'drum' removed)
Hold one end in your ear, and the other end at the top of each carburetor.
When the pitch of the 'hiss' is the same on both carbs, they're drawing air at equal volumes. |
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Russ Wolfe |
Tue May 19, 2009 6:16 am |
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And spend the $20 and get a sync tool as soon as possible. |
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69sqbck |
Tue May 19, 2009 7:45 am |
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Go to: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/34_ICT_tunning.htm for the factory baseline settings for Weber 34ICT carbs. Without a sync you will never get them perfect but this should get you going. |
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RafCarre12 |
Tue May 19, 2009 11:29 am |
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hmm, does anyone have the proper settings (is there such a thing) for baby dels? (34s) |
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notchboy |
Tue May 19, 2009 3:46 pm |
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You need to go down the same path like Solex, Brosel and Webber. Tune them to the motor with a balance tube, a dwell meeter and a sync. |
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mark111 |
Tue May 19, 2009 10:04 pm |
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use the redline info for a start point, then lean them out 1/4 turn at a time. run the rpms up and hold them, if theres popin , keep leaning. i just did mine this way , it takes patience, but you can do it. |
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mark111 |
Tue May 19, 2009 10:18 pm |
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oh, and once the carbs arnt poping , take it for a short putt around, and take a flat head, it will need to be "fine tuned" under load. and if you have the 009, 1st gear will always be tuff. try the svda distibutor when you can afford to upgrade. good luck. |
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ozker |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:45 am |
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I know these are old post but i am just checking to make sure I get this right.
I have just puchased dual 34 ict webers and I wish they would put more pictures with details anyways I would like to sync my carbs.
I have a rubuilt 1641, the tube type synch and a timing gun that also reads the rpm of the vehicle.
My first question is, I only see two screws, one of the screws is low and has a spring on it and it goes right into the body of the carb. What do they call this screw and does it have many names?
The other screw is directly connected to the what controls the butterfly and the linkage.
When I sync should I set the synch tool on one carb and adjust the other? and what screw should I start adjusting first?
My timing is set at 10 deg is this ok I read somewhere that it should be 32 deg and that doesnt sound right. |
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Russ Wolfe |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 6:00 am |
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32 degrees total advance.
Put the sync tool on one carb and get a reading, and then move it to the other carb, and adjust it to the same reading.
Keep moving back and forth until you get the 2 adj. the same.
Now, bring the RPM up to about 2500 rpm, and check them again. Adjust the throttle linkage until they are both about the same. |
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ozker |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 1:02 pm |
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Ok so the timing should be 32 after TDC?
How about the fuel adjustment how do you synch that? |
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ozker |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:14 pm |
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And what should my rpm be |
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Bobnotch |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:33 pm |
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ozker wrote: Ok so the timing should be 32 after TDC?
How about the fuel adjustment how do you synch that?
If you're using an 009 distributor, you want to set the total timing at 30 degrees at 3000 rpms, and let the idle fall where it will.
As for fuel adjustment, you set it where it runs the best. You might want to do a search for ICT tuning instructions, as I know someone was looking for a set and found them on CB Performance's web site. That will help you dial them in, and the instructions are much better than the 1/2 page you get from CIP. :roll: |
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ozker |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:35 pm |
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And what should my rpm be |
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Max Welton |
Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:38 pm |
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ozker wrote: And what should my rpm be
Whatever rpm the timing stops advancing.
Max |
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ozker |
Sat Sep 25, 2010 9:20 pm |
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Ok first let me say a thousand thanks to you guys and this site. After listening to the advise you guys gave me and doing some web research synchro carbs isnt really that hard, but it can't be rushed.
First I ran the mixture screw all the way in with out cramming it, and then I backed it out 2 fulll turns.
Second I backed out the idle screw to were it just touched the stop and then I turned it in 1 1/2 turns in. I dont know but it semmed to me like Weber drives the screw in a lot cause it took what seemed to me like a lot turns to back it out.
Next I had to set the timing so I got the rotor near number 1 plug and then set the pulley near 30 deg BTDC I then got a voltmeter ( but a test light could also be used) and put the neg lead of the voltmeter and clipped it on to the neg end of the coil. The pos end I clipped on to a grounded part of the vehicle ( any part ). I then moved
the dist. till I got 12 volts on the meter, that got me real close to where it needs to be.
I fired up the engine and did my adjustments and everything came out great. No popping, smooth running, it doesnt run hot and its got power like it should. I live where ther is a lot of hills and stop signs but it doesnt have any problems taking off.
If there is one thing I learned it is before you start the engine check and recheck the linkage. Make sure both carbs open and close at the same time. Also after all adjustments are made recheck that all carbs open and close together.
Thanks a lot for all the help guys. |
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