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  View original topic: resealing fuel tank tomorrow.. questions!
targis58 Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:56 am

I am finally working on my fuel tank reasel project tomorrow.
I 've been wondering what s the easiest way to replace the van-cafe's reseal kit.
will it be easier to jack up the front, decompress the springs so there is more room to work around in the wheel well than put the wheels on ramps? Or is it better to put the wheels on the ramps by some reason?
Sould I jack up the van and remove the wheels?
No clamps came with the kit and I have some air hose clamps( stainless clamps that you tighten with screw driver). Will that be GOOD ENOUGHor should I go and buy the FI clamps?

Any other tips?

Thanks in advance

Allen

Rhinoculips Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:38 am

I myself would say the ramps are the best way to go. Make sure the tank is as empty as possible before dropping it.

KayakWesty has a nice write up on this subject - www.kayakwesty.com/gastank.html

Then there is this one as well
www.vanagain.com/gastank1.htm

90Doka_Guy Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:45 am

I dropped the tank out last year with the front end on ramps and don't recall having any problems with regards to working room.

Personally, id go out and buy some other clamps that are more hose-friendly.

randywebb Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:02 pm

do these tanks have drains on the bottom?

some cars do and (if you can actually get the drain plug out) that makes it really easy to deal with the gas...

Mr. Electric Wizard Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:05 pm

The only drains are the supply and return lines at each rear corner.
I ran most of the gas out by driving around.
When it got to be almost empty, I raised the front end and let 'er run at about 3,500 RPM until empty.

Perales Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:56 pm

You really don't need clamps for the vent hoses. Zip ties will do since there is no pressure on them.
As for the gas, drive it till you are on fumes. Then lift the front end onto your ramps, clamp and disconnect the main supply fuel line before the fuel pump and then drain out as much as you can from there.

GBA 88West LA Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:28 pm

if you remove the fuel line from the right rear corner that feeds pump & fuel filter you can drain the tank pretty well...check out the write ups people have done there plenty of info...you may need to order the grommetts for the vent tanks they are usually pretty dry rotted and useless,,,good luck :wink:

targis58 Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:41 pm

GBA 88West LA wrote: you may need to order the grommetts for the vent tanks they are usually pretty dry rotted and useless,,,good luck :wink:
thanks for all the replies guys. by the way, grommetts that came with the kit are not for the vent tanks?

Mr. Electric Wizard Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:46 pm

targis58 wrote: GBA 88West LA wrote: you may need to order the grommetts for the vent tanks they are usually pretty dry rotted and useless,,,good luck :wink:
thanks for all the replies guys. by the way, grommetts that came with the kit are not for the vent tanks?

Nope.
The grommets that come with the kit go on the top of the tank.
You'll see 'em after you drop the tank out.

J75 Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:17 pm

You can by kits with the Grometts in them? Wow, when I had my tank down last week I used ones out of a Docap kit and ran a piece of silicone hose from vent to vent.

How much is a kit to do that?

J

bjrogers86auto Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:24 pm

Hey J..whats a Docap kit? And like my Dad says...If you have to ask...it's likely too much! hehe.

targis58 Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:32 pm

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote: targis58 wrote: GBA 88West LA wrote: you may need to order the grommetts for the vent tanks they are usually pretty dry rotted and useless,,,good luck :wink:
thanks for all the replies guys. by the way, grommetts that came with the kit are not for the vent tanks?

Nope.
The grommets that come with the kit go on the top of the tank.
You'll see 'em after you drop the tank out.

that means I can change those grommets after this project tomorrow without dropping the tank again.. yeah?

J75 Sat Jun 06, 2009 3:09 am

bjrogers86auto wrote: Hey J..whats a Docap kit?

I work in a Mack/Volvo truck shop and in the service dept we have a grommet selection of various sizes made by the company "Docap". 8)

targis58 Sun Jun 07, 2009 10:33 pm

I finished the project today and man! I would never wanna do this again.
To answer to my own question above, I would jack up the front so wheels are in the air so there is more room in the wheel wells. I ended up rolling the van off the ramps and jacking up the van. The main reason was that I have 15"rims with taller tires that I couldn't reach the "t" conectors thru the tight space. Anyway, I filled 'er up afterward and no more smell. Thanks for the help

phlogiston Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:36 am

i am in the process of replacing all my fuel tank seals as well.

i got the tank out yesterday quite easily with the van on the ground--no ramps or jacks.

i do have a couple of questions as i begin putting things back together.

what normally fails on the crossover piece? mine looks fine and i'm tempted to re use it. the hard plastic hose looks good as new and the y fittings, while discolored, seem completely intact.

how do the experts feel about using vaseline (or some other sort of lube) as an assembly aid? i noticed that a lot of force was required to get the vent hoses on to the Y fittings, and i assume the filler tube is going to be tough to install. is vaseline compatible with these seals? could it keep things from sealing properly?

the "overflow" line that connects to the filler tube near the gas cap seems a little loose and i'd like to replace it. anyone had good luck doing this? is the fitting on the filler tube barbed so i can just slide some fuel hose on? anyone know the correct size?

thanks for any advice.

randiego Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:43 pm

Quote: what normally fails on the crossover piece? mine looks fine and i'm tempted to re use it. the hard plastic hose looks good as new and the y fittings, while discolored, seem completely intact. That hard plastic hose scared me off, due to it's age (25yrs on my '85) and my concern that you can't get it to seal properly.

If you're not going to buy a replacement crossover, I'd at least get some 1/2" fuel-rated hose and replace it using the original fittings. My fittings looked good too, so I saved them (I had bought the replacement crossover from GW).

Make sure you make it a tad longer than the original (maybe an a inch), for ease of reassembly. Reassemble it blind once with the tank out so you get the feel for it... that was the hardest part for me.

I found replacement grommets for the expansion tanks (#N90100501) at Link: Airhead Parts

RCB Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:10 pm

I have a brand new crossover pipe in my hands and the plastic tube is harder than trying to imagine Janet Reno in a Teddy.

The large fuel filler tube grommet I have is a Genuine VW part and Im going to use it but the three smaller grommets I have are not a genuine VW part and with the possibility of the gas destroying the aftermarket ones I just ordered up three original ones from VW.

The genuine VW grommets are only three dollars each.

Im waiting for my fuel tank sender unit...the two expansion tank valves and the two grommets for the valves.
Once I get those parts Ill do all the "fixes" at the same time.

Drain as much gas as you can from the tank prior to droping it.
Sounds like a simple job....good luck

targis58 Wed Jul 22, 2009 2:15 pm

To me, putting the tank back up was the hard part. I hate to do it again..



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