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samwise Mon Feb 12, 2018 5:28 pm

I've been looking for the 3.5" double walled stove pipe, but not found any

aerosurfer Mon Feb 12, 2018 5:59 pm

Gregg in the 603 wrote: I used the exact same piece, bought it right off the shelf at Home Depot. Don't remember the size, but something standard, maybe 4 feet? Grab a tape measure

I used a 5’ section

ImAddicted Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:28 pm

samwise wrote: I've been looking for the 3.5" double walled stove pipe, but not found any This has been dead for a few months but just in case anyone looks, 3.5" double-wall stove pipe can also be found labeled as pellet stove chimney.

cmonSTART Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:41 pm

3 inch pellet pipe or B-vent will have a 3 inch inner wall and a 3.5" diameter outer wall. Pellet pipe has a stainless inner pipe, B-vent has an aluminum inner pipe. Both can be bought off the shelf at Home Depot.

jtauxe Mon Jul 02, 2018 3:55 pm

DougB wrote: If you don't mind me asking, what's the length on that stove pipe segment you installed? It looks like one pre-made unit (no cutting visible), so it makes me think it was bought to the correct dimensions.

Thanks in advance!

- Doug :-)
Oops. I didn't mind your asking, I was just unaware since I had not revisited the thread. But I think you have your answer.

Also, as an update, I sure hope mine holds up, because now it is blocked in pretty well by the new cross-bracing.


DougB Tue Jul 03, 2018 9:19 am

#humblebrag #eatdinneronmyframe #frameenvy #rotisserietime

;-)

malcolm2 Fri Dec 28, 2018 4:38 pm

For the next guy that needs another way. Here is what I am gonna do with my 72 Deluxe. Maybe I should say gonna TRY to do.

I had to cut the original tube flush with the large lateral beam that it runs thru. I could, I suppose dig out the remainder of that tube and make the ID a bit bigger. For now I am working with 2-5/8" ID on the rear and 2-9/16" on the front.

REAR


FRONT


Here is my plan using 2-1/2" OD exhaust stuff from Advance Auto. The btm of the pic below is the front. I figure to wedge the coupler piece in the brace then slip the Flex pipe over that. However, the flex pipe will fit snuggly in the hole without a coupler piece. In the rear, I will use a piece of cut tail pipe and slip the flex tube over it.




It is all Nickson Brand pipe. THe pipe pic is flipped with the right being the pipe I will cut for the rear. Just need about 6" of that 18" piece. Wish me luck.






Lastly, I will need seal up the joints, insulate it and support it.

clubshack Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:24 am

by chance were did you buy the y pipe from I am looking for my 77 but cant find one in the us and others in Europe are out of stock or are no longer carrying it or don't ship to the US

malcolm2 Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:14 am

clubshack wrote: by chance were did you buy the y pipe from I am looking for my 77 but cant find one in the us and others in Europe are out of stock or are no longer carrying it or don't ship to the US

I did not cut out my Y. Only straight pieces.

RalphWiggam Tue Feb 05, 2019 7:58 am

Here is my fix:




Stainless tubing with silicone couplers all from Amazon. Super cheap and easy. Not going anywhere anytime soon.

malcolm2 Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:39 am

RalphWiggam wrote: Here is my fix:


Stainless tubing with silicone couplers all from Amazon. Super cheap and easy. Not going anywhere anytime soon.

Looks good. My problem is that I cut the tube flush with the cross member, so I need some way to attach. Going to have to insert a pipe. Maybe seal it and tek screw it thru the cross member. Just have the parts, but have only dry fit everything together. Stainless seems like a good way to go. I am gonna have to paint my exhaust pipe parts.

mr matt Sun Nov 29, 2020 5:21 pm

re-energizing this post,

I have the paper tube for the center heating.

Thinking of just wrapping the paper tube with asbestos cloth, used for welding. Securing ends with fiberglass ties. material does get wetted, but it dries. Not sure if it does a wet through, will have to check that out.

I see someone has used aluminized fiberglass ( aluminum with fiberglass backing) - ( but it looks thin) with ceramic wool

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7835916
( about 3/4 down)

any comments for this approach. Wanting to insulate my heating tubes a bit.

Thanks

orwell84 Mon Nov 30, 2020 11:14 am

I am using the pellet stove vent for the main pipe and flexible ducting from Lowe’s. I also found a Y vent piece I found on Amazon. Also exhaust connectors from Autozone. To fit pieces together, I either used an exhaust pipe expander or stretched the metal with a hammer and dolly.

I am also using a bilge blower to boost the airflow except it will be connected via the Y piece which fits in the same location as the long gone diverter thing. The blower will draw air from the floor vent behind the walk through.

mr matt Thu Dec 03, 2020 3:20 pm

That is a nice setup for sure.

I am going with wrapping the tube with two layers of fiberglass blanket used for welding, then wrapping that with vinyl wrap to make it water proof.
Pic.s later.

busdaddy Thu Dec 03, 2020 3:25 pm

Sounds exotic!, I went the simple route with the foil backed bubble wrap for water heaters and the foil tape that was beside it on the shelf at Home depot, spooged the sh*t out of it with rubberized undercoating afterwards, 10-15 years so far with no issues. YMMV.

Brian Thu Dec 03, 2020 5:54 pm

orwell84 wrote: The blower will draw air from the floor vent behind the walk through.

The dream would be to have air inlets from inside the cabin and being force blown back into the heater boxes.

jmstu76 Thu Dec 03, 2020 6:10 pm

jtauxe wrote: DougB wrote: If you don't mind me asking, what's the length on that stove pipe segment you installed? It looks like one pre-made unit (no cutting visible), so it makes me think it was bought to the correct dimensions.

Thanks in advance!

- Doug :-)
Oops. I didn't mind your asking, I was just unaware since I had not revisited the thread. But I think you have your answer.

Also, as an update, I sure hope mine holds up, because now it is blocked in pretty well by the new cross-bracing.



Why the cross bracing?

Wildthings Thu Dec 03, 2020 6:33 pm

This isn't the best picture of what I want to show, but this is my center duct, beta addition. The bilge fan is now gone, and now sits in the flexible duct near the front torsion bars, but the rest of the center tube is the same. It is a piece of fairly thin wall stove pipe with the crimp for the seam snipped off. I just fit the split pipe over the two "nipples" on either end of the span, use some band clamps to draw it tight and then use pop rivets to hold the seam together. I then wrapped the pipe with a couple of layer of foam insulation followed by covering the whole shebang with a split piece of thin wall pvc drain pipe held on by band clamps. This was done about 14 years ago and is still working well.


cmonSTART Thu Dec 03, 2020 6:40 pm

Any difference moving the bilge fan forward?

Wildthings Thu Dec 03, 2020 7:13 pm

cmonSTART wrote: Any difference moving the bilge fan forward?

I made lots of changes to the stock setup at that time. Think I get about 3-4 times flow through the heater boxes as a stock setup and its noticeably hotter. Its all layed out in the Blumaxx thread.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=371749



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