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Wed Aug 07, 2013 6:29 pm

Back in the Summer of 2009 I put in a new wiring harness for my 66 Bug. I didn't want to start cutting into a brand new harness so the horn fix had been moved to the shelf for the time being. I actually thought a new harness would allow the 6V electrical system to sound the horn without the relay. Not really, the horn only worked when I was at highway speed. A couple of days ago I found the relay in my box of parts and decided it was time to get Murray's voice back. I went back through this thread and followed Glutamodo's schematic to the tee and got the horn back on-line. NICE. I hope this thread helps others who have a silent horn, 12V or 6V.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:15 am

Yeah thanks! Exactly whats going on with my horn in a 63. Im going to tackle it again as this thread finally defines the whole problem.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 12:38 pm

By the way, with this old thread coming back up, thought I'd mention that a cheap 6V 40 amp relay is available:

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumf...dp/21M4888

Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:24 pm

jzjames wrote: Yeah thanks! Exactly whats going on with my horn in a 63. Im going to tackle it again as this thread finally defines the whole problem.

AWESOME! Finally I feel that I've given something back to this great forum...of course only by resurrecting Andy's great innovation. Let us know how it goes if you use the newly available relay.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:38 pm

I just went out and SOLDERED a tab onto the steering column tube right next to the riveted-on tab for the ground.
Got horn!

Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:51 pm

That's great! Before I re-installed the relay I did go back and re-cleaned all the horn electrical connections. It's interesting that you found the culprit as the riveted electrical spade tab. Something to try next time I'm fussing around down there. How did you solder? Pics?

Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:05 pm

I'd thought about trying some kind of re-rivet/solder/weld on the stock tab there myself.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:46 pm

rokemester wrote: How did you solder? Pics?
Its an ugly solder job because I did it under the car, reaching my skinny arms and hands up there. It wasnt that easy doing it this way but I got it done - simple cleaned off a spot with a file, heated the area with a soldering iron until a blob of solder would stick and form a little solder pad to work with, then got my brass male tab and applied a spot of solder to it. Pressed the tab onto the spot of solder on the steering tube, and applied the soldering iron to it. It worked and got it to solder.

Now there's a good ground there and the horn seems to be getting the full current with a fully loud horn.

Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:24 pm

I never thought to isolate that particular electrical contact point as the major culprit in a weak to no horn condition. It is the most difficult point to access. I was able to do a very thorough job on the 'power' leg of the circuit where you can unbolt and wire wheel all the contact points. The wonky rivet connection on the steering tube is really difficult to clean up. Replacing it outright is up for serious consideration, although now that the relay in the circuit is providing enough boost for strong horn, I'm not a motivated to mess around down there:)

Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:32 pm

rokemester wrote: I'm still a little foggy on exactly why this circuit works, but I'm glad it does.
One way they teach electrical theory is with the Drain Pipe analogy...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_analogy

When electrical wiring and connectors age, they oxidize. Oxidized circuits have increased resistance, and high resistance limits current flow. This is analogous to a water hose with a kink in it. The sprinkler (horn) doesn't work because the hose (circuit) is kinked (excess resistance).

A relay works by using that small trickle of current to complete a new Heavy Duty circuit with a plentiful supply of current.

Or Google relay...
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay1.htm

Wed Aug 28, 2013 7:19 am

rokemester wrote: I never thought to isolate that particular electrical contact point as the major culprit in a weak to no horn condition. It is the most difficult point to access.

Was working on this just the other day. I'm lucky enough to have the gas tank out anyhow, and was able to reach through and test the horn with my right hand while jiggling this connector with my other hand. Definitely an issue on my car, even after attempting to clean the contact tab up a little bit. Even with the tank out, I can't figure out a way to clean in there properly. So a bit of soldering may be in order.

Edit: The more I think about it, I've never soldered anything other than wires -- ie, never two pieces of metal together. How good of a bond will this create? Hesitant to break out my MIG welder for this one. Would it work better, ya think, to tap a small screw into there, as long as it didn't interfere with the steering shaft?

Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:52 pm

Digging up an old thread. :D

I recently discovered I had a hard start relay on my '62 Beetle (stock 6 volt), and while researching the relay I found this information. I was curious if a relay would make my meager horn more audible in traffic, so I bought one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK899DI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (It was about $11.00, shipping included, week ago...)

I used the wiring diagram provided by glutamodo, and now my horn is much louder and at high pitch. Thanks!

I mounted the relay right behind the horn, and I plan to seal it up with some silicon soon.

[/img]

Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:15 pm

monsonb wrote:

I used the wiring diagram provided by glutamodo, and now my horn is much louder and at high pitch. Thanks!

8) Glad it worked good for you. :D

Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:25 pm

Nice job! I like your wiring approach.

Tue Dec 02, 2014 7:25 pm

Thanks! I appreciate that.

Wed Dec 03, 2014 12:34 am

monsonb wrote: Digging up an old thread. :D

I recently discovered I had a hard start relay on my '62 Beetle (stock 6 volt), and while researching the relay I found this information. I was curious if a relay would make my meager horn more audible in traffic, so I bought one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK899DI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (It was about $11.00, shipping included, week ago...)

I used the wiring diagram provided by glutamodo, and now my horn is much louder and at high pitch. Thanks!

I mounted the relay right behind the horn, and I plan to seal it up with some silicon soon.

[/img]

A so mounted relay is prone to get water into its interior contacts.

I think that relay should be rotated up/down, enabling water to fall off.

Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:09 am

It would be nice if you could change the relay orientation as suggested and use heat shrink to protect the contacts and the relay from the elements. I've used silicon in the past and just looks messy.

Wed Dec 03, 2014 9:40 am

It's too late; I've already used silicon. And you're right. It does look a bit messy. :roll:
I can still turn the relay around, though.
Thanks for the input.

Thu Dec 04, 2014 12:58 am

VW put that little protection on connector because that area is very exposed.

The wheel rotating launches a lot of water-debris-stones-dust toward the horn.

But the idea is good; I will try to copy your installation but with the relay on a more safe zone; On the opposite face of the wall you see, just near the steering box.

Thu Dec 04, 2014 1:03 pm

herbie1200. Im going to add a relay to my horn as well. Tell me where you end up locating it, maybe show a pic, thanks.