TheSamba.com :: View topic - Convertible Top Boot

Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:32 am

I bought a new top boot for my ’74 convertible and decided to take step by step photos of the installation process. I bought a vinyl boot from CIP1, it’s made by TMI. Canvas would likely have been nicer but budget was a concern and the vinyl and construction do seem to be of excellent quality. The two retaining straps including plastic D-rings are sewn in to the boot.

Here’s the new boot fresh out of the box. Click the pics to enlarge.

The boot came with a snap fastener kit and 6-8 squares of spare vinyl. Each snap consists of a male portion called a screw stud, and a two-part female portion. The male portion screws into the body of the car. The female portion goes on the boot. The female portion consists of an outer piece called the button and an inner piece called a socket. The vinyl boot goes in between the inner and outer female pieces. The fastener kit comes with a base and flaring tool, which are used to join the two female halves.

The first thing I did was test fit the new boot on the car. The old boot was the original 35 year old canvas and had shrunken badly. The new boot is a bit larger, and will presumably fit over a fresh top. The outer surface of my top was replaced by the previous owner about 5 years ago, while the center foam layer and headliner are original.

Here’s a view from the back. Not trying to restart any controversy about whether the boot should be pulled all the way down or tucked underneath, but it’s large enough to pull it down and I think it looks better this way.

Some more views before installing the snaps. The tabs on the new boot sit about 2” lower on the body than the old boot. Again, I attribute this to my older top that folds lower than a new one would.

Here’s a comparison of old to new.

The snap package has instructions on the box. You need to punch a 5/32” hole into the boot where each snap will go. Lacking a punch of that size, I located a snap button by eye and pushed down hard. This created a mark on the vinyl that located where the hole would go.

Then I used the largest nail I could find and nailed it through the center of the mark into a board.

Using the base that came with the kit, I enlarged the hole using the button as the “punch”. I fit the base over the button and hit it through with a hammer. This did the job and opened the hole to the required size.

Make sure the button goes completely through the vinyl.

Now lay a socket over the button.

This view shows the end of the flaring tool. This will force the top edges of the button tube to roll over the socket, holding the two pieces together.

The barrel of the flaring tool slides up and down.

Place the flaring tool over the button/socket assembly so the small tapered end is centered inside the button. Place the base underneath the button on a hard surface, and make sure everything is straight. Hammer the flaring tool straight down until the socket and button are solid and tight.

Success!

Repeat 3 more times and you’re done. Here’s the result. I reused the male screw studs that were on the car, they were in good shape and snap right onto the new female portion perfectly.

Here’s how the boot straps are installed. Right side.

Left side.

The total amount of time to install all four snaps was only about 15-20 minutes including photos. It was easier than expected and I’m happy with how it all turned out.

Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:29 am

I recently replaced a broken snap on my boot cover with one from an extremely similar repair kit from Ace Hardware, easy. I just replaced the female part, the male part on the VW fir it, guess these are all standardized.

Wed Nov 29, 2017 5:08 pm

Cusser wrote: I recently replaced a broken snap on my boot cover with one from an extremely similar repair kit from Ace Hardware, easy. I just replaced the female part, the male part on the VW fit it, guess these are all standardized.

So today, 8 years later, the snap broke again. Guess I'm not so forgetful, found the repair kit in 1 minute, was in my little wooden box labeled "small auto tools". I had several snaps remaining, and the riveting anvil and post were there too, so made an easy 2-minute fix. So convertible ready for tomorrow night if we take it to anniversary dinner. I keep stuff like this in a sandwich bag so stuff doesn't get lost from hard-to-reseal packages.

Thu Oct 03, 2019 8:58 am

Thank you, excellent guide! Been looking for something like this for hours and hours.

A question. You mention 4 snaps. I only see 2 of them (on the cover), attaching to eash side of the car into the body. As shown on your pictures. Where are the remaing 2 located?

I have seen some comments about snaps to the hinge covers. Anyone happen to have photos of that arrangement? I lack those covers but I guess I can get hold of them if they are really needed for using the boot cover.

Just about to buy a canvas cover for my -73 SB. Soooo expensive in Europe, 50-75 % higher than US. Lucky you...freight and customs will eat up the saving to no point to order overseas. Which is what they figured out ;)

Appreciate it!

Thu Oct 03, 2019 10:44 am

The extra snaps go on the white hinge covers. There is one on each side of the rear seat. These hinge covers are usually cracked and broken. When I replaced my top 20 years ago, I had the hinge covers replaced as well. I chose not to screw in the snap for fear that is might break in the future. I only use the exterior snaps for the top cover and I have never had it try and fly away.

Sun Dec 15, 2019 12:01 pm

Hello again,

So I bought a fabric boot / cover and 2 new hinge covers (never had them before).

Getting ready to install the snaps. I Seems like som folks think the snaps are not needed on the hinge covers, while others do. Anyone else who can share some additional experience of this? Do the risk for cracked (and pretty expensive) covers increase a lot? Mine are made from fibre glass so I recon they are pretty strong! Was the original also fibre glass?

BTW, I have not been able to figure out how the soft top is connected to the body behind the boot. It fits so tightly against the body plate, it almost seems glued. Can it be loosened in a simple way? Need to do some paint job and would like to loosen/lift the top a little. Better to ask rather than ruing something expensive...

Thanks!

Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:53 pm

BenneGu wrote:

Getting ready to install the snaps. I Seems like som folks think the snaps are not needed on the hinge covers, while others do. Anyone else who can share some additional experience of this? Do the risk for cracked (and pretty expensive) covers increase a lot? Mine are made from fibre glass so I recon they are pretty strong! Was the original also fibre glass?

BTW, I have not been able to figure out how the soft top is connected to the body behind the boot. It fits so tightly against the body plate, it almost seems glued. Can it be loosened in a simple way? Need to do some paint job and would like to loosen/lift the top a little. Better to ask rather than ruing something expensive...

Thanks!

I fitted fibreglass hinge covers about 15 years ago to my car and they seem really strong , much better than the flimsy original covers which appeared to have been made of quite thin white plastic and which had yellowed with age!
I’d certainly recommend fitting the snaps to the hinge covers , I don’t think the boot to cover your top will look very good without them!

There is a wire around the base of the hood material ,it pulls up into a metal channel in that area when you tighten the cable.
I’m sure someone with more expertise and hopefully photos will come along to explain it in more detail, but the ends of the wire (tightened by means of a nut on each side of the car ) are hidden behind the headliner material where the soft-top material meets the body, (I’m basing this on memories from 15 years ago so bear with me!) so you may have to do a bit of dismantling to get at them....

Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:12 am

Thank you Nessy!

That's very useful to know.

Snaps on covers: I also think the fibre glass version looks very sturdy, so I'll be installing the snaps there unless some other member add new info to the case. I'll also add some extra support behind the covers, so they are well supported against the chassis. And use large diameter washers for the screws holding them in place.

Soft top tightening mechanism, rear side: I'll try to locate the wire/nut tightening mechanism. Should anyone have a photo of it, and any tips&tricks to work on it, it would be great!

Mon Dec 16, 2019 5:04 am

I can't open mine as the seals are rotted.

Sun Dec 22, 2019 6:22 am

A follow-up:

Hinge covers installed, with some support material behind them to avoid cracks around the mounting screws. I have a special non OEM backrest, so had to attach it differently from original. In combo with the new cover think it is a great improvement in function (no oil stains on clothes) and looks. Even had my son to 3D print some plastic covers for the non-used cover holes.

Soft top tightening mechanism: Found the wire attachment with adjusting screws. I removed back rest and then it is easy to find (may be behind the inner fabric of the top). Easy to loosen and then the top can be removed easily. Great, simple design VW old school. Love it!

Thanks for all feedback.

Mon Dec 23, 2019 1:29 am

BenneGu wrote: A follow-up:

Looks great BenneGu, except your hinge cover is overlapping the trim panel in your picture?
That trim panel should be overlapping the stepped edge of the hinge cover (with the round cut-out) to make a neat appearance?

Mon Dec 23, 2019 1:35 am

You might be right! Will give it a try thanks!

Fri Jan 03, 2020 2:38 pm

Attached is a picture of the wire and adjustment nut, securing the soft top against the body. Simple but effective design. Is hidden behind the hinge cover and inner roof liner. Again thanks for the tip.

Tue Oct 20, 2020 3:58 am

Brilliant. Just what I needed!

Sun Mar 06, 2022 3:22 pm

I've just purchased a boot for my Karmann Ghia.... I have about 10 snaps to affix. Should I start from one end and work around to the other side or start from the centre (ie middle of trunk) and put one snap on one side then the other?
I'm thinking the 2nd option as I can hide any errors on both ends. By doing the 1st method - If I make even a 3mm mistake with each snap, it will add up to a noticeable problem at the other end. Thx

Sun Mar 06, 2022 11:43 pm

ghiamanjc wrote: I've just purchased a boot for my Karmann Ghia.... I have about 10 snaps to affix. Should I start from one end and work around to the other side or start from the centre (ie middle of trunk) and put one snap on one side then the other?
I'm thinking the 2nd option as I can hide any errors on both ends. By doing the 1st method - If I make even a 3mm mistake with each snap, it will add up to a noticeable problem at the other end. Thx

I would start from center, for the reason you listed yourself. I would probably fix the hood first, with tape, to adjust the fit before I mark the positions of the snaps.

Sun Mar 06, 2022 11:47 pm

[quote="Nessy"] BenneGu wrote: A follow-up:

Looks great BenneGu, except your hinge cover is overlapping the trim panel in your picture?
That trim panel should be overlapping the stepped edge of the hinge cover (with the round cut-out) to make a neat appearance?

Update: Yes that is correct, thanks, I have changed it so they extend behind the panel. In retrospect pretty obvious, but not at the time ;)