TheSamba.com :: View topic - Baja Restoration 1, 2, 3 Running! Help w/ disc brake upgrade

Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:53 am

jeff denham wrote: yes it is nessasary to proerly DRESS the stone keep a good eye not to let the stone get cloged. stock seats are the worst. it usaly takes longer to do a 3 angle stock seat job than it does a big valve set. in the early days i would never lap a VJ but now yes i do . you should stay on top of your mandrills and pilots NO SLOP . and of coares keeping chatter down to a min if any roughfing or finishing. i gusse its all in the operator hands having the experinece helps. JD.

The only problem with grinding seats vs cutting with a machine is the accuracy. I worked as a cylinder head machinist for 8 years. We had an old IDL machine and a seat grinder when I started at the machine shop and while it worked OK, it was far inferior to the Sunnen VGS-20 and the seat cutters that we got a feww years into being there. I never had an issue cutting seats with that machine, and never any kind of daylight between the valve and seat.

The problem with the stone is that even if you dress the face of it everytime you cut a seat its still wearing down everytime its cutting a seat, therefore its not as accurate, with a carbide cutter the tool does not wear like a stone and is far more accurate.

Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:31 am

Unfortunately my grinding job was not dressed. It took some time to lap the valves to smooth surface, and it resulted in wave/step on the valve (No pressure points)

Those are the little things that sometimes it is easy to overlook, but which can make a difference.

Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:41 am

The motor is put together, ready for the implant. I hope everything went smooth- we will see soon the final result. Since i have had an test assembly before, I hope first cranking will be a first time turner.
I do have a couple of minor missing links. When i was taking alternator out, positive from alternator touched the ground and sparked, creating electrical shortcut. Also after that I have lost red control light on the dashboard, and ignition key died. Could you guys help me to locate a relay that the shortcut might burn?

Ant the "blink blink" motor.

Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:50 pm

Final prep before first start up

Sat Aug 08, 2009 8:54 pm

fee-rocious looking gaurd dog there.

Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:30 am

I have just realized that i went with 1/4" steel fuel line. Is that sufficient or too thin? for 1640 w/ 34pic

Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:31 am

so funny. as of uploaded video, the page has 1641 views.

Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:08 am

Nice! Good to hear one run for the first time isn't it? Keep up the good work. 8)

Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:08 am

I love flames out the exhaust. :D

Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:55 am

Thank you. thats exactly how i feel.
For now points and timing is set. I am still wrestling with the carburetor.
I would appreciate link to easy manual for tuning pic34
exhaust is lame.. i know. Might twink it upwards and 1 have nice muffler.
For now car wont accelerate. it chokes and stops.
also it started heating up post rebuild, ill let it cool and again breaking in!

Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:00 pm

Best 34 pict 3 guide I have found: http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html.

Nice start to a Baja you have there. The engine work looks great, wish I could get mine that clean. :lol:

Fri Aug 28, 2009 2:06 pm

yellow73kubel wrote: The engine work looks great, wish I could get mine that clean. :lol:

Once many years ago mine was that clean :D :shock:

Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:19 am

thanx for this resource (pic34). it shows a whole tune up procedure nicely.

QUESTION: its a simple 1. what do i do with 2 vacuum lines from the neck of the intake. i did link the large one to the fitting on the oil filler neck, and cap off the small one?

what do i do with a 2 vacuum lines on the carburetor. i did i cap them off?
is this a correct procedure?

Thank you guys for the complements about the cleanness of the motor. I'm sure sooner or later i'll dip it dirty.
In reality i will need to fabricate protection panel for a whole motor. it be a city driver, don't want people to mess with it.
I already have an idea and materials for it. it be simple and easy to make out of pieces of aluminum breath through radiator caver, and seams covered w/fiberglass epoxy, sitting on the hood pins.
well many ideas...now get it on the road is a must!

Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:59 am

Hell everyone again.
Its been maybe about a month since the rebuild, and the car is rocking.
Besides normal upgrades that the vehicle is getting (new distributor, pulley and other misc items), i am in the search of braking system upgrades.
Well in actuality i have tested my front brake, by slamming into the wall after poor brake bleeding procedure.
The whole braking system is SHOT. Flexes are leaking, master is not working, and i am dealing with noisy rear drums and bearings.
Any day I will be switching to DISCS -all around.

CAN you guys give me an advice: Which system i should use? (in reference to quality). I am designating about 700-800 bucks.

Cip1: front disc set up
Cip1: rear disc set up w/e.brake
AC industries master
s/s flexes lines
new hard lines.

cip1 kit comes with bearings and pads-mostly complete.
I know that it is not expensive, can someone give me quality check, or other recommendations?
Thank You once again for help.
B

Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:15 am

I have essentially the same thing on mine, and while they're not Jamar or other fancy brakes, they are far superior (in terms of stopping power) to the stock drums. I can lock up the 33's on my back end, and it stops on a dime! And it would have been completely bolt up, but I have aftermarket trailing arms, so I had to fab caliper mounts for the rear.

Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:23 am

great review!!
would you know how strong kit with spindles is, in comparison to stock spindles?

PS: Can you guys recommend additional parts. I will be placing the order tomorrow, and want to do a good job.

so far:
2 disc kits (front, back w/e-brake- Cip1.com)
new hard, and s/s flex lines
4 disc ac industry master cylinder.

please recommend any additional parts that i should look into?

Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:25 pm

Quick video of the car in motion. Motor broken in.
I am trying to detect the source of the the accelerating noise from the motor/trans. Is this normal. Please listen especially on the beginning of the video. B

Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:06 am

I think it sounds great, are you talking about the fan noise (woosh) as you accelerate? mostly I hear your keys clanging, the motor sounds great!

Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:25 pm

The problem with reusing push rod tubes is that can crack at the bellows section and you might not see it.

Earthquake

Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:31 am

it was a pulley woosh sound,
I have just gone 350miles trip via mountains Poconos PA. "Buzzing" experience. Have made it home with junkyard pile of parts in the trunk.

In reference to pushrod tubes they are not related to any problems that i have now.
I recommend to change them.
It takes skills to put them in.
Mine were checked, dipped, painted and reused.
They are cheap and easy to change to stretch type.