TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1960-61 horn assembly hell made simple.

Tue Jan 10, 2017 6:06 pm

I know it says to tighten down the bolts all the way but try loosening one. I heard it worked for someone else. That's just a shot in the dark though. He who wrote this is the god of this subject though. For the person inquiring about using the por 15 putty, I have an answer for you. Yes it cracks from heat. I put it in a non-op '60 under a over outside and left it there over the summer. Went to put the turn signal switch on it and it had cracked slightly in all the places I patched. And I don't mind saying I did a good job fixing it but not good enough apparently. And I live in Southern California. I will say it was unseasonably hot here but unfortunately it does possibly shrink from heat. Only thing I can think of is do the repairs then set it in the sun for several days. Maybe get the shrink out of it and then paint it.

Good luck and yes this is the most helpful thread I have encountered even though they are all great. Kudos

Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:32 am

Anyone try to use the wolfsburg west horn horn screws and springs as parts toward the 60 setup? I am missing all of the horn ring side hardware. I need the screws, brass pins and springs. I am communicating with a few members who may have a brass pin to loan me so i can machine a replica, but im still working that out. Even if i get my hands on the brass pins, i still need the springs and shoulder bolts that hold the horn ring on. Will the WW kit work for that?

Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:31 pm

soupcups wrote: This thread is still damned helpful. I just finished restoring my 1960 wheel and used this thread to figure out how to do it. This is one of the most helpful pieces of info out there and this site is awesome. I took a multi-crack steering wheel and ground out the cracks with a dremel and then filled them with the POR-15 putty which works over 6 other products I tried. The wheel I had for my '60 was hammered. Used smoke grey Krylon rattle can to paint it with and it looks like it's coated in glass.

Fabulous job!

Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:37 pm

Navydave73 wrote: Anyone try to use the wolfsburg west horn horn screws and springs as parts toward the 60 setup? I am missing all of the horn ring side hardware. I need the screws, brass pins and springs. I am communicating with a few members who may have a brass pin to loan me so i can machine a replica, but im still working that out. Even if i get my hands on the brass pins, i still need the springs and shoulder bolts that hold the horn ring on. Will the WW kit work for that?

I called them up and they asked me if my steering wheel was a Flat 4 or original. THey had me look at the center and look for the VW logo. They sent it out and I'm about to install tomorrow. Will let you know.

Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:11 pm

Almost a decade later and this thread is still as helpful as ever. I'm planning on fixing my broken horn system and this thread couldn't have popped up a a better time.

Thanks!

Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:28 am

How in the world is this supposed to work? If you have a ground cable from the horn to the steering column that rotates 3-4 times aren't you going to have a big mess of wire dangling all over the place in order to provide enough slack for it to rotate completely multiple times?

duginabug wrote:

Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:48 am

I think you are confusing the steering column TUBE with the SHAFT. The tube is stationary. The shaft rotates and when it was "grounded" it jumped over the coupler disc to another bit of rotating mass. Never were there any tangled bits of twisted wires.

Sat Dec 23, 2017 8:28 am

As per usual, Andy is correct. The wire that goes on to the steering tube, the outer portion of the steering column, is just connected to the tube with a spade connector and a screw. Therefore it does not rotate with every turn. I can post a pic of it later if needed. The wire terminated at the bottom of the tube so the ground continues through the tube and up to the steering wheel. There is not a wire coming out of the top of the tube either that connects to the steering wheel.

Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:25 am

Agreed, look two images above that diagram on page one and there is the column tube connector shown.

Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:17 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: Agreed, look two images above that diagram on page one and there is the column tube connector shown.

So I finally got to work on the horn today. Was working fine until I turned the steering wheel in the horn started honking by itself Until I turn the wheel back or turn more. I checked under the tape the wire coming out of the shaft and it doesn’t appear to be touching anything and I have a rubber insulator over it. I checked to make sure the shaft was not touching the column where it comes out of the column. Has anyone experienced this?

Sun Jan 21, 2018 11:49 am

saintperez wrote: So I finally got to work on the horn today. Was working fine until I turned the steering wheel in the horn started honking by itself Until I turn the wheel back or turn more. I checked under the tape the wire coming out of the shaft and it doesn’t appear to be touching anything and I have a rubber insulator over it. I checked to make sure the shaft was not touching the column where it comes out of the column. Has anyone experienced this?

Something somewhere has got to be touching. Just got to keep looking for it.

Thu Feb 07, 2019 11:45 pm

I just got my wheel re-cast. [113415651D 1960-61] - and I have 3 followup questions:

1)
Seems I might be missing the flat white plastic ring referred to in the super awesome guided instructions. Should I assume that the plastic ring is no longer being made by anyone?

2)
I also think I have an aftermarket metal turn signal canceling ring.
I don't recall there being any nubs/contact points on it (see mocked up pic, with blue arrows).
Do the aftermarket ones have these contact points? (my parts are at mechanics, I'll check tomorrow)

3)
Lastly, are the brass spring loaded pegs supposed to be touching the D horn ring all the time? I think I read that aftermarket D horn rings are not compatible, because they are too thick at the mounting plate?

Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:23 am

And does anyone know the part number for either the white flat plastic insulating ring, or the metal mounting (canceling?) ring that sits on top of it? Thanks.

Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:26 am

I’ll try and answer at least one of your three questions but if I don’t have the exact and right answers someone on this awesome website will. I have been looking for that plastic ring now for several years and I have not been able to find any aftermarket or repops anywhere. I think, unless you find an og one that someone has set under a hermetically sealed glass bell jar and guarded by werewolves you probably will not find a whole or non-brittle one of those unobtanium pieces of plastic insulator. I think I am just going to try and make one out of putty or on a 3D printer from a CAD design. If you do find one, please see if it has a twin. As far as the aftermarket cancel ring, again as the last answer, I do not believe any of them have the brass nubs on either side. Only supposed to be on the bottom side and only three of them. They’re brass because they are for the conduction of electricity. (Please feel free to correct that anyone if that is false.) The horn rings are different too. The later ‘60 years have a little nub on the bottom and I’m pretty sure the “dished” part is a lil different. I screwed those bolts down right but the horn ring wouldn’t move so I backed those off a bit if I remember correctly. Good luck and I hope you still have all the brass pins and little insulator washers and the springs.

Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:31 am

I thought a 3D printer could be the solution for the plastic ring. Wishing you luck on figuring out the dimensions.
And from the images from the original post, those contact points on the metal ring don't seem to be brass. (in the pic they look silver).

This is turning into a bad dream. Beautiful stone beige wheel, and no way to get it connected properly.

Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:02 am

I saw this and thought to myself that I had one of those and I should see if I could get some dimensions off of it, but after removing the cancel ring it was rather obvious that it was is worse shape than the one above and in no condition to be removed. Sorry. :cry:

Sat Feb 09, 2019 4:32 am

If you’re looking for dimensions for that plastic insulator I actually have a whole one that is in good, useable shape. Sorry It’s not for sale but it will be the one I am using on my ‘60 rag. Sorry about that. I, however, also have a few others that are not in useable shape. Like i said I’ve been looking for a while for them. I’m at work until Tuesday but I’ll dig out the pieces I have and maybe you can try and glue them back together or at least maybe you can use it as a prototype to CAD and print another one or something. I may also have another cancel ring and I thought for sure those little nuns on there were just pieces of brass pressed into holes on the ring, like rivets. I’ll take a look at everything I have and maybe we can get you up and running so you can put that new wheel into service. I’ll take picks of everything I have. I also have a couple ‘60 six wire turn signal switched which are in excellent working shape if you need one of those. I’ve restored a couple and they function. I have the two types for the ‘60. The one with the contacts on the face of it and the one without. They are not cheap however. But if you have a good one stick with that. Andy (Glutamodo) I believe posted a thread or responded to one about the nightmare horn setup suggesting you can always change the column to a later year and use your wheel. Those parts are a lot easier to find and much cheaper. Andy is a treasure trove of pictures and information, facts and ideas. He is one of the main reasons this site is so useful. I think his last name is really Wolfsburg.

Photos of one of the switches.

Sat Feb 09, 2019 6:52 am

Thanks for all the info and suggestions.
I just got my 60 wheel back from the mechanic (who ended putting an aftermarket wheel on the car so I can drive it home) and found out:
The 60 wheel I had restored has both the plastic insulator ring AND the cancel ring (with the 3 brass ‘rivet’ contacts) already in it. :roll: I’m amazed I just hadn’t observed it before.

But, presently the 3 screws holding them together have metal washers. Ah hah. Prob #1. Also, the steering column has the ground wire pulled up thru it. Prob #2.

How can I tell if my column is a 60-61 or later?
I will check to see if I have all the rubber bumpers and rings, and if there is a connector at the bottom end for the wire, but should there be any other identification or SN on the column?

(Prob 3: I don’t have a cool last name like Wolfsburg. )

Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:37 pm

Isn’t 1960 just a great big hardy-har-har year for little parts? Can’t tell if it makes it more fun or more torturous. Maybe both. I believe my 1960 column is solid, such that you cannot physically bring a wire up.

Also, my plastic plate was decent, but I think I had to cut some plastic washers.

I’m not feeling so hot today, so maybe I’ll go pull the cap and confirm my theory on the column. I’ll take a picture. Or, rather leave one.

Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:42 pm

lol :lol: thanks Panicman.
Wonder if anyone has a Bentley service manual they can post pics from too. It’s gotta be covered in there.
No hurry on the photo. But appreciated.