TheSamba.com :: View topic - Plugging your cast iron oil pump for full flow

Sat Aug 01, 2009 4:17 pm

I am about to plug my cast iron oil pump for full flow for my new 2276..... I am sure some of you have done this yourselves.... Do you have any advice to give or suggestions? What size tap should I use... do you remember? What should I use as a plug. I saw one at the buggy shop that was aluminum, with an aluminum plug with no threads that looks like you just pound it in.... I just don't trust that...... and I don't think that i should get some stock aluminum rod to stick into this hole of the pump that I have, as it is cast iron... dissimilar metals... with different expansion rates... see where I am going? Is there anything I need to look out for? I just don't want to mess this thing up... the longblock alone was 3500 dollars and I can't afford to screw something so critical up.

Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:28 pm

3/8 pipe tap use cutting fluid. Aluminium tapered threaded allen plug. If that cast iron pump does not fit tight you may want to oring it. Here is a Gene Berg pump I added a second oring to. I did not find any pictures of the Mellings pumps I did. I buy GB pumps pre plugged.

Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:30 pm

Thank your for the reply... so, still use an AL plug on the cast iron pump body?

Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:00 am

You can get steel plugs, allen head 1/4" NPT, works like a charm and the taps are readily available.

Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:20 pm

Well... the 3/8 tap was too small... went to home dpt... they only went up to 1/2 in. ..... still too small. So I went to lowes .... same thing, too small. then I went to auto zone. they had some larger ones for spark plug chases... but it looked like one size too small. FRIG! or whatever. So I went to NAPA... Closed... Dang. sigh. SUNDAYS. I will have to take up the search tomorrow. Maybe Sears will have one large enough. This hole is big! like one size bigger than the largest spark plug chaser at autozone.. wow. BTW, they said that they didn't have any plugs at all that would do the trick... I swear, Lakeland is such a backwater hick town that tries to be a big city and falls short every time.... It NEVER has anything I need. I always have to goto orlando or tampa for everything. grrr. I hate this place.

Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:22 pm

Sometimes I wish I lived in California... they would have everything I need.

Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:41 pm

What else is required for full flow? I heard something about drilling passages.

Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:13 pm

What do you mean... what else.... plumbing wise, ? There are a few ways to full flow your motor... like going from the original location of the oil cooler with an adapter, and going to a remote cooler and filter. and a different type of pump cover that has and in and an out.(this too with a remote cooler and filter). But from what my research has turned up... to properly full flow your motor, you do it this way with one outlet from the pump cover .... and you plug the pump, so that the output pumps the oil out of the cover and goes to your remote locations, then you have to tap your case at the proper place where the oil is supposed to come back to the motor. Some of the newer cases like mine already have provisions for full flowing and you don't have to pull the plug and tap the case for the return line. The problem I have is plugging the pump. You can buy pumps already plugged and you can buy them with a plug kit that you pound in... I saw this one last sat. at the local buggy shop. Or, since the pump came with my motor already, you can plug it yourself. The problem I have, is that I cannot find a tap large enough to tap it. Then will be the job of finding a plug. But that is all part of the fun I guess.

Mon Aug 03, 2009 2:57 pm

It almost sounds like you're getting Std. taps. You should be buying/borrowing a PIPE tap (NPT). These are tapered for plumbing parts. (it also ensures that the plug or fitting will eventually seal as the threaded hole gets smaller as the plug goes in.)

Here's a good description of the whole process:
http://www.dune-buggy.com/techtips/fullflow/

Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:01 pm

You are right... I see my problem now... I will start again tomorrow. I just didn't catch that part of it. I wish I could just buy the tap and plug at the same time from an online vw site.

Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:56 pm

Go to ebay and search on "3/8-18 NPT pipe tap".

I'd call Chirco or Moore parts and see if they have it... you might be surprised...

Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:07 pm

OK... found the die at Harbor freight ... a six piece set for something like 14 bucks... it said 46 dollars, but was only 14 at the checkout... hmmm, shhhh. Now to find a 3/8 -18 hollow plug locally. I did see some online.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:47 am

TravisChattin wrote: Sometimes I wish I lived in California... they would have everything I need.

No, you don't.

What do you think the internet is for?

Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:06 pm

tundrawolf wrote: TravisChattin wrote: Sometimes I wish I lived in California... they would have everything I need.

No, you don't.

What do you think the internet is for?

Amen to that. If you lived in CA, you wouldn't have that street-legal rail, couldn't afford the home you have in FL, taxes would eat all your VW money, and the state government would be broke!

Oh, how do you feel about 8.75% sales tax?

Other than that, I love it! :-)

Wed Aug 05, 2009 6:50 pm

A lot of elec. outlets carry alum npt plugs for watertight applications.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:07 pm

Any Ace hardware will have them in brass with a square drive. Use lock tite and run it in then you can cut off and grind what still protrudes.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:18 pm

This is how it gets done with an aluminium plug available at most spped shops that carry Earls products. Also is found in a Scat oil galley plug kit.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:32 pm

I completed the mission... I went back to napa to find out if they had any of the plugs... I had remembered that when I was there before.... I had only asked about the tap. So, I went back. They told me to check this place called jerico's hardware off of main st in downtown lakeland. OMG... Gold mine. They are the kind of place that has everything that the mainstream home improvement stores do not. I found all kinds of sh*t. Has stainless nuts with the nylon inside to lock 'm down (all metric and sae) also had copper, zinc, everything) even had pullies and all kinds of turnbuckles and a setscrew for every occasion... (even the tiny one that is stripping out in my dual hex linkage on my carbs...) Even had oring kits with ALL sizes and types and thicknesses... even the ones for harsh chemicals and fuels. My carb rebuilds just became very cheap... This place is a FREAKIN goldmine guys. They found a niche by having all the things that lowes and home dept do not carry. What a nice business.... they even walked me and handed me the part personally instead of just telling me what isle it was on. If anyone from tampa or lakeland,St. Pete area, Lutz, Frostproof.... YOU "fivewide guys" can make it to this place, I highly recommend it. It reminds me of otto's hardware in riverview. It's like going into one of those old country feedstores. Sorry about going on about it like this, but when was the last time a business actually impressed you enough to have you walking thru the isles with a stupid lookin cheeze smile on your mug like I had today. ...... twas really nice.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:44 pm

And BTW Perrib, thanx. I believe that you have replied to more than just one of my posts of questions on here in the past. I know this just seems too simple and easy to most of you... and now that I have the proper supplies to do it with, I am sure that it will be a breeze for me. I will make a movie of this procedure and youtube post it per you advice on the plumbing.... to help the next vw lover that comes along as lost as I was.

Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:11 pm

It is easy as long as you keep the pressure on the tap to the long side of the hole. Starting a tap free hand in a hole being at an angle require patience.