TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Aug 08, 2016 11:34 am

Thanks! That looks great. The belt doesn't slap the snout where the idler pulley was?

Replacing the factory steel tubing/rubber elbows on the crankcase ventilation system looks like it increases the clearance at the original engine cover lip.

What muffler are you running on it?

Yeah, I had been without my van for well over a month and it sure was nice to have it back. The 1.8T is SO nice in these things.

Mon Aug 08, 2016 12:40 pm

I'm curious what IATs you are seeing with the intercooler down there?

Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:07 pm

Christopher, does the coolant level sensor in the Mk4 reservoir work with the stock Vanagon cluster?

Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:34 pm

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: Christopher, does the coolant level sensor in the Mk4 reservoir work with the stock Vanagon cluster?

They use different connectors so you have to splice the wires for the newer connector, but yes, the level sensor works fine.

Mon Aug 08, 2016 2:12 pm

Thanks!

Thu Oct 19, 2017 4:09 am

crazyvwvanman wrote: A concern I would have is that bypassing the relay in this way means the conversion now uses the troublesome D15 pin to additionally power the ECU and the coil packs.

Mark

shadetreetim wrote: japio wrote: Alternative and correct version.

Yeah, that is the better solution as I found out while trying to start mine. The modification I showed above doesn't work. Your version should work good.
Still, that´s how Volkswagen and Audi do it.
Just because there is not 1 but 4 coils, doesn´t mean it takes more current.

Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:15 am

Christopher Schimke wrote:
I have decided that the ECU and new power and fuel pump relays will be placed to the right and forward of the engine compartment in a pocket made specifically for them. This pocket will be integrated into the raised rear deck area, so it will all look perfectly integrated. This arrangement allows me to use the Audi engine wiring harness nearly 100% complete. All of the necessary wires coming from the Vanagon will be re-routed over to that area and the interface between the Vanagon and Audi wiring will take place near the ECU and relays through the use of new multi-pin connectors to make the installation as clean and simple as possible.

The air intake will be located in the left side plenum and the intercooler will be air/water.

Almost exactly a year ago, I spent a good part of my Thanksgiving vacation creating some wiring interface charts and diagrams. I started out by identifying all of the ECU pins followed by identifying all of the pertinent wires that need to be interfaced with the Vanagon wiring. I created a wiring diagrams that will help me interface the power supply relay and the fuel pump relay to the Audi and Vanagon wiring.

What I plan on doing is creating a new sub-harness that will plug into the existing Vanagon wiring and interface with the new multi-pin connectors to create a complete plug and play system.

This Thanksgiving holiday was spent re-familiarizing myself with what I had done and making a few minor changes. I also converted my chicken scratch hand drawn schematic for one that anyone can read.

Here is what I have so far:

Christopher where is the MIL (Check engine light) pin on the ECU? I thought it may be pin 22, but it does not seem to be. I don’t see it anywhere on you wiring information.
I met to post pin 17 not 22.

Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:11 am

I'm in the same boat right now, I just found this though...

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182206

It should be pin 17 off the ecu.

Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:25 am

Michael4104 wrote:
Christopher where is the MIL (Check engine light) pin on the ECU? I thought it may be pin 22, but it does not seem to be. I don’t see it anywhere on you wiring information.

robbiecanter wrote: I'm in the same boat right now, I just found this though...

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182206

It should be pin 17 off the ecu.

Yes, that was my post on the Audi forum, and yes, it's pin #17 on the ECU. It wasn't listed in my wiring information because I didn't have that information at the time the chart was created.

Wed Apr 04, 2018 3:57 pm

Thanks to both of you. I now have a check engine light. The ECU pin 17 supplies ground, not power as I thought

Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:45 pm

Ps Christopher, I'm just about done with my swap, and your thread has been the bible for it! Thank you so much. And if you're ever around Gig Harbor, I'll buy you a beer. Cheers

Thu Apr 05, 2018 7:02 am

robbiecanter wrote: Ps Christopher, I'm just about done with my swap, and your thread has been the bible for it! Thank you so much. And if you're ever around Gig Harbor, I'll buy you a beer. Cheers

Right on! Glad you found it helpful.

Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:21 pm

Ok... so apparently I need a starter adapter.... this thing won't turn over fast enough to fire... Chris, you have any input? Can I pay you to come check it out lol?

Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:42 am

robbiecanter wrote: Ok... so apparently I need a starter adapter.... this thing won't turn over fast enough to fire... Chris, you have any input? Can I pay you to come check it out lol?
What Adaptor did you use?

Christopher,
I too used most of your well thought out provided information for my transplant. The first time I turned the key it started. 😋👍👍. Just need to finish the exhaust system and then off to the referee.

Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:52 am

I have a 1.8T in my 91 done by Stephan's. Looks like you live in Gig Harbor. I am located between Fox Island and the Arletta Store.

If it helps you are welcome to take a look at how he did his work on mine. If it would help to have them side by side I could bring it to you as well.

Mine is a Syncro so may be different.

Currently available most anytime.

John

Sat Apr 07, 2018 12:25 pm

this just should not be the case.
the 1.8T isn't a high compression (at start up) engine.
it gets it's power from boost pressures.

you either just need a new starter, a new battery cable a new ground or all of the 3.

of course you can get a starter adapter and a new type starter anyways.. but it's not necessary with the 1.8T.

robbiecanter wrote: Ok... so apparently I need a starter adapter.... this thing won't turn over fast enough to fire... Chris, you have any input? Can I pay you to come check it out lol?

Sat Apr 07, 2018 1:28 pm

danfromsyr wrote: this just should not be the case.
the 1.8T isn't a high compression (at start up) engine.
it gets it's power from boost pressures.

you either just need a new starter, a new battery cable a new ground or all of the 3.

Good point, make sure the transmission ground strap is in place/installed also.

Sun Apr 08, 2018 10:00 am

Hey guys, thanks, I got it fired up last night! After cleaning every wire there is, it was still the starter. The TDI starter did the trick. And John, I'd love to see your rig regardless! Let's meet up

Sun Apr 08, 2018 10:57 am

I just went through this with my TDI install. Those gear reduction starters are an amazing upgrade that I now recommend for all VW engne types.

Mon Apr 09, 2018 11:23 am

Unrelated issue - has anybody had problems with excess pressure buildup in the gas tank (Syncro) from the leak detection pump or insufficient flow through the charcoal canister? I’m using a SAH kit and the fuel sprays everywhere when I open the gas cap.