TheSamba.com :: View topic - How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics

Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:15 pm

Just finished this project on my 59 bug. All I'll say is, if you think you have a big enough hammer to "bang it out" like the Bentley manual says to do...get a bigger one.

It came out easy once the primer (remember than pans being dipped at the factory, doh!) broke loose. New line went in easy, however don't hold your breath on being able to get into the factory securing clips. Do your best to secure with zip ties and it should be A OK.

Tue Jun 04, 2013 8:09 pm

In my case, the line was clogged with hardened fuel and rust, could not even get a wire through it, much less another fuel line?????

Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:52 am

I just did mine on a 74 chassis and fed the line from the rear to the front. I pushed excess out the front inspection cover, bent the 90 degree bend needed to exit the hole at the front passenger side of the tunnel, and pulled the line back into the tunnel until it was even with the exit hole. It was then easy to push it sideways with a piece of flat bar so that it came out the fuel hole on the passenger side.

Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:14 am

Rebuilding a Ghia. Body back on, interior in, lotta more stuff to do but trying to get it on the road so I can enjoy it. So tune up in progress so I can get it inspected and the licensed but old gas is bad. So purge old gas and disaster strikes: steel fuel line in the tunnel is leaking. Pressurize with compressed air and you can hear it hiss near the front. Was leaking for probably 3 days and it made a mess of the pan paint. Sigh.

There was a post from LoneWolf8 in 2011 about using a Dorman nylon line inside the leaking steel one. But I don't see any Dorman fuel line product that would be small enough to fit. I know the flow would be restricted but I would like a way to side-step the route-new-steel-line project right now. Has anyone else used nylon inside the old steel one?

If nylon does not work then how about running a steel line under the pan? This is a Ghia so not the same as a bug pan. Anyone tried on a Ghia?

Finally, if I do run under the pan why not run all the way into the engine compartment and terminate on the firewall? Then run a rubber braided gas hose to fuel pump? It always seemed crazy to me for the factory to have that rubber section near the tranny that is kinda close to the exhaust/heat exchanger.

Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:56 pm

There is an alternate method outlined in the 61-'65 Bentley manual (which covers Ghia too BTW :P ).

Briefly, it says to run a new steel pipe inside the car along the tunnel on the right side. This simplified method involves drilling holes (make them big enough for rubber grommets) in both panels of the front bulkhead (Napoleon's Hat) running it along the bottom of the tunnel on the right side similar to the brake pipe on the left side, exit it near the battery cable in the rear with another grommet, cross it over on top of the tunnel and back over to the left frame horn so it ends up in the same area where the original exits. They also have you install clamps to hold it down to the tunnel front, middle and back so it's safe and out of the way of moving parts.

I have seen a few cars with 1/4" copper water pipe ran under the left side of the car clipped to the edge of the floor pan under the running board. This position and material is not nearly as safe or permanent, so I wouldn't even recommend it.

Tue Aug 27, 2013 4:28 am

OK. Thanks for the info 61SNRF. I will buy the Bentley Manual (':?')

Austin VeeDub near me said they have done it inside too. Running around the edge of the pan would make the gas travel a much longer way.

I have resigned and accepted the situation and have ordered real fuel line and a bender and cutter. I think I have grommets around somewhere.

In the mean time been running a hose out of a gas can in the garage for tune up. Finally pulled the valve covers to set the valves and discovered #4 intake pushrod was beside the rocker. (Junk yard 1600 dp motor). Fixing that helped it run better :)

Till the fuel parts arrive I am running out of a gas can on the floor....until the fuel pump stopped pumping...sigh. Gonna figure that out next. Its the last piece of fuel system I have not overhauled...yet.

Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:48 am

I just did this yesterday. Stainless steel line runs neatly along the right, can't be stepped on. Didn't run the line over to the left side of the car back in the engine compartment, just ran my rubber line past the fuel pump and under the alternator. If this fuel pump ever fails now I have a metal line to a good mounting spot for an electric pump.

I used rubber fuel line over the metal line as grommet material.

Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:07 pm

LoneWolf8 wrote: It does, however, I used a 5/32 inch OD tubing with .016W, so the flow decrease to my 36hp is very minimal. I believe you wouldn't have any problems even with dual carbs. I should mention that it would be a good idea to locate the original hole and cover it. I used a small length of fuel hose, split it, and wrapped it around the hole, held in place with a couple of wire ties. If your hole was caused by rubbing against something, this will stop it from cutting through it again and into the nylon.

They must have discontinued this line because I can not find any on Dorman's site or anywhere else.

Sun Nov 10, 2013 12:13 pm

I got mine at summit racing for around $35.00. 1/4" stainless 20 ft part # SUM-220214. I had plenty left over afterwards for other stuff.

Sun Nov 10, 2013 3:31 pm

Got mine from Amazon!

Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:13 am

Harleyelf wrote: I just did this yesterday. Stainless steel line runs neatly along the right, can't be stepped on. Didn't run the line over to the left side of the car back in the engine compartment, just ran my rubber line past the fuel pump and under the alternator. If this fuel pump ever fails now I have a metal line to a good mounting spot for an electric pump.

I used rubber fuel line over the metal line as grommet material.

Ouch! Those red power wires being pinched looks scary! You should grommet that hole as soon as possible to avoid a fire.
On a side note:
I laid my gas line along the center tube and bent it to the directions I wanted BEFORE I ran it through the tube from the front... Took me all of 1/2 hour and fit like a glove. I was dreading doing it-looked like it was going to be tricky....

Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:33 pm

Thanks for the writeup! I had to call around to find 1/4" steel line locally but NAPA had it at $27 out the door for a 25-ft roll (as of spring 2014).

I ran it starting from the front to back. Fishing it into the trailing arm and out the back hole to the engine took the most time, but it was not difficult. Vacuuming out years of mouse turds, grass and sticks in the tunnel, however, was annoying...

Ironically a PO had replaced the original fuel line with 1/4" rubber fuel hose from NAPA. I don't know if anyone has priced rubber hose vs steel tube lately but the steel tubing is a lot less expensive! Too bad the mice and ethanol got to it.

Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:34 pm

It was an absolute comedy of errors for me but, its done! Major thanks to Aynthm for the weed eater line tip..worked like a charm!

Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:23 pm

shano63 wrote: It was an absolute comedy of errors for me but, its done! Major thanks to Aynthm for the weed eater line tip..worked like a charm!

Sweet!

Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:00 pm

lol..was waiting for you...

Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:01 pm

LoneWolf8 wrote: I have a 56' Bug that recently need the fuel line changed. For those of you who have tried this, we all know how difficult it can be. However, this is 2011, and technology has now saved those of us that hate things that are difficult. Dorman now makes a nylon fuel line that fits inside the old, leaky steel tube. That's right!!! No more frustrating hours of replacing that old line. Just insert the end of the nylon tubing into the old steel tubing and push. Dorman makes a nice tool to put the unions on the ends of the new line, and just use the regular fuel hose from there to the tank and carburator. Walla!

Great call. They have been using this technique for years in the natural gas industry when the steel service line to your gas meter develops a leak underground that would be expensive/difficult to repair. The crews call it a "service replacement" and it usually involves only 2 excavations to replace the entire service line from the gas main in the street to your gas meter shut off valve. A brand new polyethylene pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter than the original steel service pipe is inserted in the same method you described. It saves utility companies TONS of paving and labor costs.

Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:38 pm

vwnut1 wrote: LoneWolf8 wrote: I have a 56' Bug that recently need the fuel line changed. For those of you who have tried this, we all know how difficult it can be. However, this is 2011, and technology has now saved those of us that hate things that are difficult. Dorman now makes a nylon fuel line that fits inside the old, leaky steel tube. That's right!!! No more frustrating hours of replacing that old line. Just insert the end of the nylon tubing into the old steel tubing and push. Dorman makes a nice tool to put the unions on the ends of the new line, and just use the regular fuel hose from there to the tank and carburator. Walla!

Great call. They have been using this technique for years in the natural gas industry when the steel service line to your gas meter develops a leak underground that would be expensive/difficult to repair. The crews call it a "service replacement" and it usually involves only 2 excavations to replace the entire service line from the gas main in the street to your gas meter shut off valve. A brand new polyethylene pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter than the original steel service pipe is inserted in the same method you described. It saves utility companies TONS of paving and labor costs.

wish I knew of that when I did mine, maybe the next car that needs it I'll try that. Being that it is a smaller diameter does it let enough fuel through?

Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:34 pm

Being that it is a smaller diameter does it let enough fuel through?

anyone?

Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:38 pm

not sure if this is a dead thread or not but figured it seemed like the right place to ask, is it possible to replace the metal conduit tube for the clutch cable inside the tunnel with a vinyl/plastic tube instead? the metal one is broken up and I pulled out out (original buggy builders botched the shortening) so I'm curious if itd be better to use a plastic tube so the cable wouldnt have as much rubbing and wouldnt rattle around in the center tunnel. Thoughts?

Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:41 pm

That tube needs to be firmly anchored to the frame. If you can find a way to secure a plastic tube to the frame in such a way that it never moves, then I suppose it could work.