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Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:02 pm

240Gordy wrote:

Oh and now that I may have insulted you guys, can I make a request?

Make an iPhone app that plugs in via the universal/USB adapter and displays this stuff on my phone while it is plugged into a adapter replacing the ashtray. That would be cool. It could use the accelerometer in the phone to do dyno testing.

I was looking into this... very possible with a jailbroken iPhone:

http://modmyi.com/forums/iphone-ipod-touch-sdk-dev...phone.html

In fact, since I'm already writing the frontend for linux, I should include iPhone support so the same app will run on either linux or iPhone...

Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:17 pm

[quote="edgood1"][quote="loogy"] edgood1 wrote: and of course someone to write the app. I am not cool enough to own an iPhone.

you don't need an iPhone to write the app, you just need an intel mac. You can download the developer tools for free, it includes and iPhone simulator so you can test your app.

An iPhone app that reads engine codes will make you far more money than you ever got tinkering with 20 year old processors.

I paid $4.95 for a tire size calculator, it was worth every penny. How much do code readers sell for at the FLAPS?

Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:36 pm

Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:47 pm

tencentlife wrote: $35.

ya, so there ya go, I would rather pay that and have it on my phone and not have to have another gadget, plus of course you could add some more cool features like AFR gauge . . .

Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:59 pm

35 bucks just grabs codes, it won't read data. That's quite a bit more, I haven't priced it.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:02 pm

there must be a lot of groovy, cool, hot-rodder types like us who would like to read data on their iPhone.

Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:08 pm

clicking the ad at the top of the page got me this . . .

"What is a DIYPNP?

(Taken from the DIYPNP FAQ located here)

The DIYPNP is a Do-It-Yourself Plug-N-Play Engine Management System. It is made up of three main pieces that allow for an incredibly flexible and modular system for building a plug-n-play EMS for a plethora of vehicles.

MicroSquirt Module- At it's core, the DIYPNP is based on the MicroSquirt Module which is a MegaSquirt-II Processor based ECU on a credit card sized PCB. The DIY element of this EMS comes from the fact that you assemble it yourself from a kit of components, soldering the unit together and then adding wire jumpers to route the signals to the connectorboard to match the needs of your car. The assembly is not nearly as complex or time consuming as a standard MegaSquirt ECU kit assembly, there are fewer components and all components are sized so that they are easy to solder (no tiny transistors here).

Mainboard- We've taken the awesome capability of the MicroSquirt Module, combined with the MS2/Extra firmware, and built out a mainboard that adds a very nice featureset including pretty much everything we get asked about on a daily basis by our customers. You've got dual ignition inputs and up to four ignition outputs (hi or low current, allowing for Coil-On-Plug for up to a 4cyl engine or wasted-spark ignition for up to a V8 engine. Distributor based ignition is of course supported as well. Knock control, boost control, 4 spare inputs and 4 spare outputs for driving fans, intake butterflies, on/off variable cam systems, whatever else you can imagine. There are more features too, check the features and documentation pages for full details.
Note-- All of the primary Inputs/Outputs are brought out along the edge of the mainboard that lines up next to the connector board.
All common ignition input/output pullups are as simple as they could be with a resistor network in place ready to setup.

Connector Board- And then the last piece you need to know about is the connector board. This is a small PCB that slides into the same slot as the mainboard and lines up right next to it. It's usually not much more than a breakout board for an OEM style connector that often fits a stack of vehicles as many of these connectors were used by multiple manufacturers, and often on multiple vehicles/engine families at each manufacturer. Sometimes we may fit an extra circuit on the connectorboard if we've found that the vehicles that use that connector typically need a particular circuit. An example of this is the Bosch Motronic 55pin connectorboard, which hosts a circuit to control the 3-wire IAC valve that is common in vehicles that use this connector.

So after you handle minimal assembly on the mainboard, you do a bit of research on the harness pinout in your vehicle (or download a spreadsheet of pre-researched info and just check it for accuracy in your application), and you use this info to run a handful of jumper wires from the mainboard to the proper breakout pins on the connectorboard bringing the signals in/out on the proper pins on the connector. This is what makes the DIYPNP so easy to apply to such a broad range of vehicles. It's basically a set of PNP EMS building blocks, with awesome results.

You want boost control, run a jumper to the input and to the output. Turn it on the in the software and tune it.

You want to convert your engine from it's stock distributor to wasted spark or COP, add the proper crank/cam trigger wheels to the engine (you might have what you need already inside of that old distributor) and wire those sensors up to the DIYPNP, then wire the ignition outputs up to your coils, set your timing and tune it.

The flexibility is massive. And if we didn't include a circuit you want, we've got two large proto areas on the mainboard (one is under the uS Module) and in some cases there is a third proto area on the connector board if we had the extra space. "

Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:56 am

I wanted to build a custom interface, gauge system, data logger and automatic upload tool to suit my exact requirements... and this module just one component in a bigger project.

I think thats the spirit of most vanagon owners. Do the work yourself, design and build your own upgrades and updates to suit your needs.

I know the products out there and they just don't work for me for function and price. I want to be able to tune the tuner. For me, doing this myself will be much cheaper and I'll be able to tweak it however I want.

If I wanted something that worked out of the box I'd be driving a toyota.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:15 pm

I just want the iPhone app that lets me drive the van remotely like James Bond's BMW phone interface would. That and an app to get cold drinks for me out of the fridge while I'm driving.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:16 pm

you could sit at the table in the back and drive it with your phone. kinda hard to drink at the same time though.

Dogpilot, have you tried out the XPlane flight sims?

hey go to the App store there is a free Golf GTI 2010 racing game out today.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:43 pm

Flight sims, they bring bad feelings. No fun in a sim for me, its emergency after emergency compounded one after another. It is basically a running nightmare for us. They just represent bad karma for me.

It would be best if there was a retrofit dash unit. Generic and programmable for displays you want. We just seem to be crushing old cars that would be the market for such a device. It has always irked me that new cars have minimalist displays, when all the info is there through the OBDII. Instead of your oil pressure is low or misfire in cylinder 4, you still get an idiot light saying check engine. It does however, give me a constant warning about windshield washer fluid low! Why do they even bother to put the stupid graphics displays in, if thats the extent of the info it gives.

Come to Flag and get the real thing, nothing like doing rocket runs on the BNSF railroad in the desert.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:28 pm

Dogpilot wrote: Flight sims, they bring bad feelings. No fun in a sim for me, its emergency after emergency compounded one after another. It is basically a running nightmare for us. They just represent bad karma for me.

It would be best if there was a retrofit dash unit. Generic and programmable for displays you want. We just seem to be crushing old cars that would be the market for such a device. It has always irked me that new cars have minimalist displays, when all the info is there through the OBDII. Instead of your oil pressure is low or misfire in cylinder 4, you still get an idiot light saying check engine. It does however, give me a constant warning about windshield washer fluid low! Why do they even bother to put the stupid graphics displays in, if thats the extent of the info it gives.

Come to Flag and get the real thing, nothing like doing rocket runs on the BNSF railroad in the desert.

I have seen some retro-fit digital dash set-ups. very cool looking, I'll find a link.

Rocket runs? Is that the BNSF running along the old Route 66?

Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:34 pm

courtesy Pegasus Racing,

SPA Digital / Analog Dash, 12,000 RPM

The SPA Dash is designed to cover a wide range of applications including OE, kit, and competition vehicles -- it is even standard equipment on the Noble M14 supercar! The lightweight aluminum housing features a large analog speedometer and 12,000 RPM tachometer with a needle that changes color as it goes up through the rev range. A digital LCD readout window displays a fuel level graph, odometer, and resettable trip odometer. The LCD window also scrolls through two temperature and two pressure displays, and will automatically "snap" to a channel with an over-temperature or under-pressure alarm. Warning lights with industry standard icons (oil pressure, turn signal, battery, high beam, etc) give the dash a "factory" look. Measures 200mm x 100mm x 40mm (7 7/8" x 4" x 1 9/16") and comes complete with all sensors (except fuel level) and wiring loom.

Stepper motor tachometer and speedometer needles for smooth, steady operation
Color-changing tachometer needle with programmable shift points
Capable of driving SPA 3-Stage Shift Light (sold separately)
Backlit LCD readout and blue backlit dial faces for night use (adjustable brightness)
User-programmable warning lights
Peak value recall on all parameters

Qty
Part No.
Price
Stock Status

SP D100-12K
$1,399.00
Not In Stock
notify me when available

Fri Oct 23, 2009 10:50 am

240Gordy wrote: clicking the ad at the top of the page got me this . . .

"What is a DIYPNP?

(Taken from the DIYPNP FAQ located here)

The DIYPNP is a Do-It-Yourself Plug-N-Play Engine Management System. It is made up of three main pieces that allow for an incredibly flexible and modular system for building a plug-n-play EMS for a plethora of vehicles.

MicroSquirt Module- At it's core, the DIYPNP is based on the MicroSquirt Module which is a MegaSquirt-II Processor based ECU on a credit card sized PCB. The DIY element of this EMS comes from the fact that you assemble it yourself from a kit of components, soldering the unit together and then adding wire jumpers to route the signals to the connectorboard to match the needs of your car. The assembly is not nearly as complex or time consuming as a standard MegaSquirt ECU kit assembly, there are fewer components and all components are sized so that they are easy to solder (no tiny transistors here).

Mainboard- We've taken the awesome capability of the MicroSquirt Module, combined with the MS2/Extra firmware, and built out a mainboard that adds a very nice featureset including pretty much everything we get asked about on a daily basis by our customers. You've got dual ignition inputs and up to four ignition outputs (hi or low current, allowing for Coil-On-Plug for up to a 4cyl engine or wasted-spark ignition for up to a V8 engine. Distributor based ignition is of course supported as well. Knock control, boost control, 4 spare inputs and 4 spare outputs for driving fans, intake butterflies, on/off variable cam systems, whatever else you can imagine. There are more features too, check the features and documentation pages for full details.
Note-- All of the primary Inputs/Outputs are brought out along the edge of the mainboard that lines up next to the connector board.
All common ignition input/output pullups are as simple as they could be with a resistor network in place ready to setup.

Connector Board- And then the last piece you need to know about is the connector board. This is a small PCB that slides into the same slot as the mainboard and lines up right next to it. It's usually not much more than a breakout board for an OEM style connector that often fits a stack of vehicles as many of these connectors were used by multiple manufacturers, and often on multiple vehicles/engine families at each manufacturer. Sometimes we may fit an extra circuit on the connectorboard if we've found that the vehicles that use that connector typically need a particular circuit. An example of this is the Bosch Motronic 55pin connectorboard, which hosts a circuit to control the 3-wire IAC valve that is common in vehicles that use this connector.

So after you handle minimal assembly on the mainboard, you do a bit of research on the harness pinout in your vehicle (or download a spreadsheet of pre-researched info and just check it for accuracy in your application), and you use this info to run a handful of jumper wires from the mainboard to the proper breakout pins on the connectorboard bringing the signals in/out on the proper pins on the connector. This is what makes the DIYPNP so easy to apply to such a broad range of vehicles. It's basically a set of PNP EMS building blocks, with awesome results.

You want boost control, run a jumper to the input and to the output. Turn it on the in the software and tune it.

You want to convert your engine from it's stock distributor to wasted spark or COP, add the proper crank/cam trigger wheels to the engine (you might have what you need already inside of that old distributor) and wire those sensors up to the DIYPNP, then wire the ignition outputs up to your coils, set your timing and tune it.

The flexibility is massive. And if we didn't include a circuit you want, we've got two large proto areas on the mainboard (one is under the uS Module) and in some cases there is a third proto area on the connector board if we had the extra space. "

it looks like there are several ways to go on this but the price of doing it with diy is pretty good and they have some existing apps and they are customized for engine management. there are other boards that are more generic like rabbit they have built in wifi(or wireless communication) these run in the neighborhood of $500 and they have a c compiler. when i get the money i will probably try the diy. i have seen some on craigslist for sale.

Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:42 pm

Digital dash, über cool! $1,300 is almost the price of the entire van in some cases!

Yes, BNSF RR, I hit five or six locos (loosing count now). Got to paint the loco meatballs on the old dog. I usually set up and do rocket passes on the train at Canyon Diablo trestle. Always amuses the boy scouts when I take them for rides. They also tend to loose lunch in the pullout and then over the top.

Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:30 pm

intellidash, only $399.00

you aimed too low and took out the bridge?

[img][/url]

Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:42 pm

Ah, I see the thread is touching on instrument clusters so I'll show what I'm thinking of. It is a 1999 Audi A4 cluster into to a Vanagon. This would correspond or be used with a Subaru engine swap, so speed and tach inputs would come from Subie ECM. The signals may have to be massaged, but I haven't gotten that far. I've figured out the pin outs and signals needed for all the functions. I would be using audi sensors for oil/water temp. I have to figure out how to hook a headlight switch as during the day the lights are on high, at night they work through the dimmer. Probably the easiest solution is to use a A4 light switch. Not easy but I think very do-able. More work this winter.

Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:23 am

Read thru all again this am and i have a question. Anyone in this group with a suby swap that has looked at the signal for ign timing? I mean where it would be and at what point as the plug conn on the 2.1 hall sensor to the ecu. Does WBX use the leading edge of sig change and is suby simuliar,voltage levels about same?? Need for a future project.

Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:30 am

morymob wrote: Read thru all again this am and i have a question. Anyone in this group with a suby swap that has looked at the signal for ign timing? I mean where it would be and at what point as the plug conn on the 2.1 hall sensor to the ecu. Does WBX use the leading edge of sig change and is suby simuliar,voltage levels about same?? Need for a future project.

you are hijacking a hijacked thread! :wink:

Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:56 pm

I just picked up a Scangauge II for my '06 Jetta TDI, but my other consideration was this:

http://www.devtoaster.com/products/rev/index.html

combined with one of these:

http://www.plxkiwi.com/kiwiwifi/buynow.html

It's OBDII of course, but it seems like you could build something similar seeing how far you've come already.

The kiwi wifi product hooks to the OBDII port, and then has wifi transmitter that your iphone hooks up to. Then you buy the iRev app for $30 I think it is, and then you have all kinds of gauges, info, etc. right at your fingertips with a great interface.

Just thought I'd throw this out there as maybe a good model for what you guys are trying to do.