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Tue Oct 20, 2009 2:55 am

I am installing new hatch, cargo door and cab door rubber on my '57 and I need to see some pics of how the door rubber butts up to each other and over laps on the cargo doors and especially around the front doors where it overlaps at the beltline so that the transition between the door and window frame seals up properly. Thanks.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:54 am

scvw wrote: I am installing new hatch, cargo door and cab door rubber on my '57 and I need to see some pics of how the door rubber butts up to each other and over laps on the cargo doors and especially around the front doors where it overlaps at the beltline so that the transition between the door and window frame seals up properly. Thanks.

dropgates.com has nice pics of how to do it

Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:02 am

Thanks Ronnie, I will check that site out. If anybody has any pics I would still like to see how yours was installed. Original or recently replaced.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 1:43 pm

Pix are of Gibbs' 57 standard which is an excellent resource when trying to restore a late 50's bus. 8)

Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:12 pm

Sweet, thanks!

Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:18 pm

x 2. i hope to attack those soon.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:06 am

Joey,
Not sure that anyone has posted the funky shape the seal has around the hinge area on the cargo doors - I trimmed my new seals to a similar shape to lie flat. The other pics are just my OG seals and placement. Wish they were soft enough to keep, but they don't seal very well.

Hope this helps.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 12:03 pm

Thanks Robert. Can't wait to see that bus two weeks from today. :D Get-r-done :wink:

Thu Oct 22, 2009 12:06 pm

You betcha! Looking forward to it. East Coast represent!

Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:55 am

In response to someone's question in another thread, I am posting here since this thread is in the Bus FAQ.

For the cargo doors, the only rubber on the body are the 2 horizontal pieces that run across the top and bottom of the cargo door opening on the body.

Top center is the cargo door set up.
Top and Bottom strips are on the body
The rectangles are on the doors.

Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:14 am

Some more pics I found

Some cargo door rubber install pics from Neil's '58 Deluxe

NOS cargo door rubber, this is the horizontal piece on the body, you can see how it is shaped around the locking holes on the body

Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:22 am

Here's a photo of an original decklid seal as well

Note how the corners are angled and glued together and there is a separation seam near the bottom center.

Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:31 am

Thanks for this thread, was helpful in redoing my rubber.

I'm using WolfsburgWest set of rubber #241841823AWWand gluing it in with 3m yellow weatherstripping adhesive.

The grey rubber that comes from WW is one solid layer, and I found it difficult to cut clean notches out of it for the door fittings to lay flat. It seemed thinner than the original stuff in the pics above so I just went with it. The doors close but of course since its brand new rubber its tough to close them right now. Hopefully in a few weeks they will take shape and close easier.

Has anyone else had success cutting notches out of the WW rubber? If so, what tools did you use and how did you do it?

Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:20 pm

hexarobi wrote: Has anyone else had success cutting notches out of the WW rubber? If so, what tools did you use and how did you do it?

Yes, although I don't always do the best job.
I use a NEW razor blade and slice it.

Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:18 am

hexarobi wrote: Has anyone else had success cutting notches out of the WW rubber? If so, what tools did you use and how did you do it?

Yes. Did it on a band saw. Gives a rough surface, but as it is later not visible any more, it doesn't matter to me.

Wed Aug 27, 2014 2:08 pm

With the OG front door seals, they were sliced and lap glued...over each other, where the body bulges out...just above the beltline. I'm using the new WW grey seals, and I'm guessing they should just be straight on glued in with no slicing and dicing? Like to hear from anybody who has installed the WW door seals as to whether they glued them in as a solid piece or did the factory type build up at that point.

Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:35 pm

kenshapiro2002 wrote: With the OG front door seals, they were sliced and lap glued...over each other, where the body bulges out...just above the beltline. I'm using the new WW grey seals, and I'm guessing they should just be straight on glued in with no slicing and dicing? Like to hear from anybody who has installed the WW door seals as to whether they glued them in as a solid piece or did the factory type build up at that point.

Yes, on my 59 they were glued in as a solid piece, no slicing or dicing. Fit is good and they seal well.

Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:26 pm

Looking at Neil's NOS cargo body seal up above... anybody ever use one of the concaved front door seals there?

I'm asking because the square profile ones that come in the kits seem too bulky.

Sat Apr 01, 2017 4:03 pm

Just wanted to show how the upper/lower pieces of the weatherstripping for the cargo doors are.
It's tapered by about 1/8" thickness at one end.
Here's two 211 841 829 211841829

I thought the tapered area would be placed over a raised metal pressing in the base of the door weatherstripping channel.

But, what I thought was a little odd... is that it means the sharp cornered side of the seal is in the channel recess.
The sides of the cargo door opening (on the bus) have their weatherstripping placed with the rounded corners in the channel.
I guess there isn't a 'rule'... that sharp corners always in/out.

Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:06 pm

I want to add my experience to this conversation. I bought the WW cargo door seals and made the mistake of not trimming out notches around the door pin areas and the hinge areas. This made my doors not close "true" and while trying to force them closed I accidentally broke the glass on one of my Hehr pop-out windows :x . Definitely trim at least 2/3 of the back of the seal away around these areas, maybe even 3/4. I used a utility knife with a new blade and carefully sliced the seal to fit these areas and it worked for the most part. the doors probably will close better with removing as much material as possible, i'm hoping that keeping them closed for a few days will "train" the seals into place and the doors will close more easily. i have a 1959 double-door ez/sundial camper in (mostly) rust free condition, meaning the channels for the seals are in good condition.