TheSamba.com :: View topic - Rocky Mountain Westy SVX conversion journal

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:27 am

Thanks again guys!

It's not over with yet though. This oil leak is frustrating :evil:

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:43 am

I think it's the rear crankshaft seal. I can see a stream of oil coming from where the flywheel bolts to the crank. I don't know, I thought I installed it correctly.

---edit---
Definitely the crank seal :cry:
At least it idles good and doesn't throw any codes...

Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:30 pm

Could be the sep plate as well. It can leak at the inner side and look like a crank seal leak. Its harder to seal the plate than install a crank seal. or should I say easier to mess-up :wink: . Either will obvious when you get back in there - not that you want to after all the install work...

Other than that - Sweet job man!

I was STOKED when my conversion fired up.

I'd change the oil very soon too, with the new bearings and all that you have done. (Maybe you've stated that you would or have already?) 20min breakin/ oil change/ 1000mi/ another oil change, then back to your regularly scheduled programming.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:57 pm

I'm certain it's the crank seal, but I'm going to redo the separator cover as well just in case. I didn't have the right tool to install the crank seal... I just lightly tapped it in a circle trying to get it on straight as possible, but I may have warped the lip or spring in the process. I have a new oil seal and the correct tool coming tonight so hopefully this will be cleared up by tomorrow.

I'm running 100% dino oil right now for the break-in and will switch to fully synthetic when I get to my new home in Colorado in a couple weeks.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:38 pm

make sure u use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts, it could leak oil from the threads.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:13 am

Thanks Team,
It is a pleasure working with such a great bunch of people.
And it is a privilege to work with you.
Have fun with your conversions,
Tom Shiels

Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:22 pm

Lesson learned... use the correct tool when installing the crank oil seal:

I guess I messed the lip up when tapping it in. Barely noticeable, but it's a bit wavy in a couple places and indented in a couple other places.

I have the right tool this time.

Removing the tranny was hands down the hardest part of this entire project. I managed to bend the two lower tranny studs and somehow split the connection of a heater hose. A coolant shower is not much fun :evil:

Live and learn...

Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:31 am

Yes, sir.
The right tool is needed for sure.
I have a friend nearby who will rent the factory Subaru tool for this if needed.

dylan

Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:13 am

found out I installed the seal too deep as well... no wonder it failed miserably.

Dylan, thanks for the help but I borrowed the tool from my neighbors shop and installed it PROPERLY this time 8)

Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:52 pm

I remember the day it was time for the oil seal and saw a very timely post on one of the forums. Other gotcha's, at least on some 2.2's, where the oil pump backing plate screws and the plastic version of the oil separator cover. I thread-locked the screws for the pump. The day it was time to mate the gearbox and engine, Tom Shiels reminded me of the plastic cover and he just happen to have a metal version for me.
Keep up the good work.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:12 am

I got everything buttoned back up again. Fired it up yesterday and had no oil leaks!! My idle is pretty high in the video(2200). I adjusted my TPS last night and it was about 1/4inch out of spec so I'm hoping that brings the idle down.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:29 am

Congratulations on stopping the oil leak.

If your TPS was adjusted so the idle switch was not closed-- yes, that could be a big part of the problem. Erratic idle seems to be the most common bugaboo with a new Subaru conversion. There are so many things that can affect the idle speed--everything from vacuum leaks to failing sensors to a sticky accelerator cable.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:36 am

I haven't started it up today yet but I'll do some tests and see what comes up.

It might have something to do with the evaporator path? I put a loop on the two pipes that come out the rear drivers side by the PS pump. This way I can route a single line from the original charcoal canister to the pipe beside the two fuel lines. I was under the impression that air would be pushed out of the pipe and into the canister but there is a definite suction on the line by the fuel lines. I'll have to take a look at this.

Someone posted here before that the speed sensor simulator is known to cause high idle and by installing the mechanical sensor will fix the problem.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:46 pm

you should have those 2 lines looped by the PS pump. my SVX, and past 2.2's have all been done that way. Current SVX using the subi charcoal canister (much slicker than the VW method)

I am using the SS simulator, my idle (verified yesterday by select monitor) is steady between 950-975 rpm. i should go look again so dont quote me on it, but the select monitor showed speed sensor reading of 27mph. definitely eliminated any stalling ive experience with past conversions with no speed sensor. I personally really like the SS simulator, its solid state, not much to go wrong with it and if it did, you will still run

Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:20 pm

I do have those two lines looped by the PS pump, but the line by the fuel hoses is creating suction. I thought air was supposed to be forced away from the engine out through the canister, right?

How do you have the svx canister hooked up?

I brought my idle down to 1200 by correcting the TPS and adjusting the stop screw. I'll wait until I get a test drive before I mess around any further.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:00 pm

Hey nice goin' man! That motor sounds sweet bro. One question though. Where's your Texas twang? You sound like a Yankee. :o

Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:13 pm

Thanks! My camera doesn't pick up the low bass tones very well, wish you could hear what it really sounds like. It's a beast.

Man I don't know... Texan born and raised, unfortunately :roll: I do say y'all and dang a lot, but no accent.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:14 pm

The charcoal canister collects vapor from the gas tank and the engine pulls it out while running, so vacuum is what you want. As I understand it, the vacuum solenoid should not open until the engine is warmed up and the throttle is open. In other words, you should not fee any vacuum on that line at idle. One of the functions of the TPS is to switch the computer into idle mode when the throttle is closed. On the TPS pins 1 and 2 are connected to the idle switch. The switch should be closed when the throttle is closed (zero ohms) and open when the throttle is open. This is the first thing to check--if you haven't already.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:29 pm

I was handed the link to this thread because I was finding it very difficult to find anyone who veered away from the vanagon OEM cooling system set up, I'm SO GLAD YOU DOCUMENTED THIS!! It looks great, and yes, i'll be using as much of your post to construct my own similar set up.

Thanks again for this, you saved me a heap of headaches!

94ej22/81Westy

Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:17 pm

Thanks wcdennis! That clears up a bunch for me.
So if I use the VW setup, and the VW check valve, do I need to put a vacuum hose on top of the valve and route it somewhere or what?
Thanks for the idle test as well, I'll mess with that tomorrow.

dreweast, glad I could help you! I'm actually uploading a video right now explaining my entire cooling system so check back tomorrow and it should be posted. If you have any questions or need help with anything don't hesitate to ask 8)