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Thu Nov 26, 2009 1:12 pm

74 bay

Can someone tell me the process for removing the diagnostic test box (that box in the engine compartment with the mess of wires)? I tried searching and have read that it's basically useless, so I would like to get it out of there if possible.

Thu Nov 26, 2009 1:24 pm

The test plug? Just remove it. I took mine out and the engine bay looks much cleaner.

Pic from gallery

Trace the wires back and cut/cover them.

Thu Nov 26, 2009 1:45 pm

Agrree with EZ Gruv, but when you cut the wires you should remember to do each wire at adifferent length in the harness so as to aboid any shorting or back-feeding through the diagnostic circuits. Once all the wires are cut, wrap each wire end individually with thick electrical tape, preferably 3M or Scotch. With all wires properly taped off, gather them together and bundle them collectiely in the same electrical tape so that, when done, the harness looks somewhat like a bangaged amputated limb. Finally, secure the amputated harness branch to the main harness with more tape. Do it right, and you can barely notice the delete.

This procedure comes from an experience when I was restoring a '73 for a family member's significant other. He wanted the diagnostic plug gone since it's wires were cracked and corroded as well as it, frankly, being superfluous. Now that someone asked I sure do regret not taking photos of that part of the restoration.

Hope this helps!

Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:39 pm

Works the same as on my Beetle....

Disconnect the battery, cut the wires and tape over the large one that supplies 12v+. The others you can just tuck away.

Thu Nov 26, 2009 4:46 pm

I'd tape or heat shrink all of them separately, the fat red one is just dangling from it on a bus and usually isn't connected to the battery but almost all of the rest of them get power when the lights, signals and a few other things are in use.

Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:07 pm

What about using the fat red for a engine bay light? Is it hot all the time or when the key is on?

Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:22 pm

an alternative to tape: stick each cut off wire into a tube of RTV. Seals it up, won't slide off.

Quote: What about using the fat red for a engine bay light? Is it hot all the time or when the key is on?

I put a hot lead and a ground in a plastic block on my baja bug. gives me a connection for timing light, dwell meter, et cetera. 10-32 screws isolated from everything else

Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:51 pm

notchboy wrote: What about using the fat red for a engine bay light? Is it hot all the time or when the key is on?
Yes, it would work.
But the battery is, like, 16 inches away, so , yeah, not a lot of work either way. :wink:

Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:12 pm

I like having the test socket in my 72 bus since the center terminal 50 and
the terminal 30 right upper connector operates the starter when jumped
Then i set the dwell & do a compression test

Built in remote starter. 8)[img][/img]

Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:26 pm

greenbus pilot wrote: notchboy wrote: What about using the fat red for a engine bay light? Is it hot all the time or when the key is on?
Yes, it would work.
But the battery is, like, 16 inches away, so , yeah, not a lot of work either way. :wink:

True enough #-o