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Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:45 pm

I guess I avoid those points because I don't want to take any chance that any grease makes it onto the brake lining surface. If you do this be very frugal with the grease! I guess I've been lucky so far and never had a backing plate wear through there (yet). But a good point Greg!

Bill

Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:53 pm

BulliBill wrote: I guess I avoid those points because I don't want to take any chance that any grease makes it onto the brake lining surface. If you do this be very frugal with the grease! I guess I've been lucky so far and never had a backing plate wear through there (yet). But a good point Greg!

Bill

Just a dab'll do ya!

Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:44 am

EverettB wrote: bherder wrote: Now using a hammer, pound in the rubber oil seal into the bearing cover. Use some oil to lubricate the bearing cover and hammer until the seal is fully seated into the cover. You'll have to use a bigger socket than what you used to remove the old seal from the bearing cover. Once it is pounded it, install the metal ring back into the oil seal.

What size socket did you use to pound it back in?
I haven't found one that is right so I use the same socket I used to pound it out but I lay the old seal in between as a shield against damaging the new seal.

I'm not sure, but it was one from this harbor freight set. The socket fit perfectly into the seal and inner part of the socket didn't put a single mark on the inner part of the oil seal.

The tool that Greg showed is pretty cool. I'll eventually get one, but $45 is better spent on the front brakes.

Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:59 am

I use this on the backing plates, the adjusters, where the springs go through the shoes, on the spreader bar and on the e-brake lever pivot pin. Use to use a graphite based lube till this came out.

Nice write up Brady

Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:11 am

I've got this tool, it comes with a punch that goes into the center of the tool (also a oe tool.) It pops them seals in no worries. I got the tool at a garage sale with alot more vw stuff for 5 bucks lol. Best buy ever.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:20 pm

My howto must not be very good. I just put gear oil into my RGB's and one of them leaks on the back side of the backing plate! I retorqued the oil seal and still have a leak :(

On a worse note, I put gear oil into my transmission and found a leak just in front of the front drain plug (nose cone). Good thing I have a warranty on the transmission of 12k miles. Too bad I'll have to take the entire tranny out again......

Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:52 pm

If you do not at least snug down the axle nuts, it is going to leak.
Nose cone leak should be an easy one for you to fix. Unless it is due to a crack in the nose cone.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:54 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: If you do not at least snug down the axle nuts, it is going to leak.
Nose cone leak should be an easy one for you to fix. Unless it is due to a crack in the nose cone.

Tightened the axle nuts last night slightly (not to 250 ft lbs), and checked for leaks today. Still leaking.

The leak on the transmission is on a metal to metal seam. Looks like the person who rebuilt it didn't use enough sealer. Is it fixable without pulling the entire transmission?

Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:53 pm

Durn! Hope your inner spacers that ride inside the axle seals are not worn out. BTDT.....

You will have to take out the transaxle to get to the nose cone properly.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:08 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: Durn! Hope your inner spacers that ride inside the axle seals are not worn out. BTDT.....

You will have to take out the transaxle to get to the nose cone properly.

Well the mechanic who did the work will have to take the tranny out to get to the nose con properly :D He is the one who didn't seal it properly.

Oh, and my oil leak on my RGB is coming out of the front most spring plate bolt. This isn't good....

Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:16 pm

Hmm, probably someone drilled that bolt hole too deep and now you are going to have to take that RGB apart to get it welded up on the inside.

Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:37 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: Hmm, probably someone drilled that bolt hole too deep and now you are going to have to take that RGB apart to get it welded up on the inside.

I will refrain from mentioning who rebuilt my transmission with a leak by the front drain plug and who drilled too far into my rgb to free up a broken off bolt and created a leak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wed Jan 27, 2010 1:27 pm

bherder wrote: Eric&Barb wrote: If you do not at least snug down the axle nuts, it is going to leak.
Nose cone leak should be an easy one for you to fix. Unless it is due to a crack in the nose cone.

Tightened the axle nuts last night slightly (not to 250 ft lbs), and checked for leaks today. Still leaking.

The leak on the transmission is on a metal to metal seam. Looks like the person who rebuilt it didn't use enough sealer. Is it fixable without pulling the entire transmission?

If you do not torque the axle nut to 215-250. You will wear (wooble out)
your splines in your brake drums.

Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:00 pm

brettsvw wrote: bherder wrote: Eric&Barb wrote: If you do not at least snug down the axle nuts, it is going to leak.
Nose cone leak should be an easy one for you to fix. Unless it is due to a crack in the nose cone.

Tightened the axle nuts last night slightly (not to 250 ft lbs), and checked for leaks today. Still leaking.

The leak on the transmission is on a metal to metal seam. Looks like the person who rebuilt it didn't use enough sealer. Is it fixable without pulling the entire transmission?

If you do not torque the axle nut to 215-250. You will wear (wooble out)
your splines in your brake drums.

And things will likely leak if the axle nuts are not fully torqued before filling the RGB's and trans. Though that seems not to be where the leak is coming from this time.

Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:03 pm

cdennisg wrote: brettsvw wrote: bherder wrote: Eric&Barb wrote: If you do not at least snug down the axle nuts, it is going to leak.
Nose cone leak should be an easy one for you to fix. Unless it is due to a crack in the nose cone.

Tightened the axle nuts last night slightly (not to 250 ft lbs), and checked for leaks today. Still leaking.

The leak on the transmission is on a metal to metal seam. Looks like the person who rebuilt it didn't use enough sealer. Is it fixable without pulling the entire transmission?

If you do not torque the axle nut to 215-250. You will wear (wooble out)
your splines in your brake drums.

And things will likely leak if the axle nuts are not fully torqued before filling the RGB's and trans. Though that seems not to be where the leak is coming from this time.

Bingo!

Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:16 pm

So the mechanic that did the work (who is pretty well know in the Portland area) didn't seal up this spot with sealer, so that is why I was getting gear oil coming out of the spring plate bolts. I thought it was coming out of the bolt holes, but it was coming out of the cap that goes in this hole. I welded a bolt to the cover and got them off. I'll install them myself with sealer to fix the leak.

And here is where the main leak is. I don't think I have the skills to fix this myself. I get a 2-3 inch diameter pool of oil on the garage floor in a 12 hour period at this spot.

Argh, fkn pissed.

Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:43 pm

The leak at in the center section will have to be taken apart by your rebuilder.

For the RGB plugs, you can just RTV the swing plates to the inner sides of the RGBs. Never had a leak since doing that and helps to keep out the rust and water that gets in there otherwise.

Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:13 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: The leak at in the center section will have to be taken apart by your rebuilder.

For the RGB plugs, you can just RTV the swing plates to the inner sides of the RGBs. Never had a leak since doing that and helps to keep out the rust and water that gets in there otherwise.

Naaasty.

Just clean everything up and reassemble it with a thin coat of permatex ultra-black on the plug and it will be fine.

Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:18 pm

campingbox wrote: Eric&Barb wrote: The leak at in the center section will have to be taken apart by your rebuilder.

For the RGB plugs, you can just RTV the swing plates to the inner sides of the RGBs. Never had a leak since doing that and helps to keep out the rust and water that gets in there otherwise.

Naaasty.

Just clean everything up and reassemble it with a thin coat of permatex ultra-black on the plug and it will be fine.

Thanks Greg. I should buy stock in permatex. Need to get some ultra-black (have pretty much everything else). Not really worried about the plugs. More worried about the transmission leak. I know the mechanic will make it right, but he is out of town all of next week. I'm getting antsy to get this bus on the road.

Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:51 pm

On small nut rgb do you use the large O ring?I have read yes and no so just want to confirm