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Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:30 pm

I struck out over the summer trying to get an alternator out of the ddb, and have decided to try another route.

A local shop (Franklin's) have said they'd be happy to do the fabrication work necessary for a conversion -- since I lack the tools (or experience).

Combing through the old threads here, I've collected a couple suggestions.

100211-1680 NipponDenso 12v/40a (Diahatsu 3 Cyl Diesel) -- 40 amps hardly seems worth the effort.

Geo Metro 3 cyl - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Geo/Metro/1AEAL00302/317692 -- 50 amps... better, does that look like it would work though?

It sounds like you might just be able to use a Type 1 alt by grinding off the lip and using shims?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=644580 -- 55 amps

I had read that RX-7 has an 80 amp that fits. Like this maybe?
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Mazda/RX-7...f&cj=1

And if you really want to go all out, there's a 90 amp Kubota / Komatsu forklift alternator, but I'm not sure which one they were talking about. There's a 90 amp alternator on this site along with a bunch of other Nippondenso here: http://www.motorcityreman.com/niinal.html

Anyway, at this point I'm thoroughly lost, and thought I'd see if anyone here had suggestions. Trying to find an appropriate one online seems pretty futile without a specific model number to work with.

Thanks!

Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:00 am

I did the Type 1 alt. It works, but would be much easier if you cut into the tins rather than grind on the alternator. Some people (like me) didn't want to cut the tins.

For giggles i bought a 3 cyl metro alt from a junkyard for $30 or so (it was from a 98 metro). It has a serpentine belt pulley on it so you'll need a v pulley. I bought the Powermaster 181 from Summit and it fits like a glove. The alt fits very nicely in the generator spot. You'll need something to replace the generator strap. I bought a thick piece of metal strapping from home depot - forget the gauge at the moment.

I have yet to do the final belt fitting but I'm sure it won't be rocket science.

I was really surprised how well this fits. I like the T1 alt but the geo is a easier fit.

Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:09 am

and you can do it yourself... really. I'm a computer geek, not a mechanic and it worked out fine for me.

Just follow Air_Cooled_Nut's guide for the wiring. I read it all the way through a couple times, printed it out, then went to the squareback walked through the process without actually doing it. Then, I did it. As long as you go into it knowing you have to be thorough then you'll be just fine.

Sat Jan 02, 2010 1:38 am

nippondenso alt in the 40 amp variety has been on my engine for 70k miles or so now... same belt.

Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:11 pm

The type one alternator turned backward is more work. When I get settled and upgrade to the 75 amp that I have I will use dirt's idea of trimming the flange and I will turn mine a few degrees to the side. No shims involved and all the seals and air flow are as the factory desired. One of my biggest worries with the other alt setups is heat. (There is a reason GM put blowers with cooler air blowing across the alt on a Fiero. I burned up 2 alts in one month because of heat when the fan quit working.) This Alt was installed many years and miles ago. It is still working to this day. In 9 years owning the car and over 5 years running the Alt set up I just bought my second battery last month and I think that was a case of a worn starter drawing to many amps for the cold weather (1 degree today). I changed the original starter yesterday when it finally quit working. So as far as i can tell the charging system is working.

Just to let you know that I have no issues with using non factory parts. At times it works and other times they don't. Sometimes we have to make due with what we got or can get in the way of parts and sometimes I have to do things just to prove to myself that it can be done. By the way I am also running a bug light switch, turn signal, and ignition switch. Not sure of what model years but the only function that I know I have lost is the little green light on the dash that says your lights are on. Which in daylight you coldn't see and at night I can see the dash lights to know they are on. And the headlights still turn off with the key.

Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:43 pm

hmmm, the alternator i have is supposed to be a beetle one but looks nothing like the one on the aircoolednut how to. mine has a significantly larger part on the body jus behind the pully area. :edited: ah, i see, it goes in backwards. DOH!

Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:26 pm

Like this?

It's pretty easy to grind the flange off so it fits with out cutting into your tins. As far as shimming... I think it's hit or miss depending on how well your tins fit. I've done this to two engines and have shimmed both of them.

Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:44 pm

exactly like that. mine already had the part grinded off so that saved me some time. i take it this may have lived once in a t3. it didnt come with the pully however the threaded stud is the same as the generator threads. will the gen pully work i wonder?

Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:07 pm

aleiby wrote:

A local shop (Franklin's) have said they'd be happy to do the fabrication work necessary for a conversion -- since I lack the tools (or experience).

Thanks!
Aleiby,
Did Franklins ever fabricate anything?
Thanks
Ryan

Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:51 am

is the stock geo metro alternator pully for a serpentine or a v-belt? If serpentine does the alternator accept the stock generator pully or where can the proper v-belt pully to fit the alternator be purchased? THANKS

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:00 am

Forget the Geo Metro since you already have a Beetle alternator that will work.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:04 am

something wrong internally...wouldnt charge.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:23 am

I'd probably buy another new/used Beetle alternator. I like the looks of them installed!

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:31 am

Buttafuoco wrote: something wrong internally...wouldnt charge.

Does your idiot light on the dash come on when you turn the key on?
Did you bypass the old voltage regulator?

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:39 am

i did bypass and the idiot light had remained on. i had a friend bench test it and he determined it wasnt functioning correctly. Any info on the geo pully?

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:41 am

Don't know about the pulley, but be careful about which Geo alternator you get.
My brother is a Geo specialist. I asked if he had any extras laying around.
He said that most of them are only 35 amp capacity.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:46 am

35amp? isnt that about the same as the stock gen.? So far i know it is in a 91 3cyl. so body size works for the t3. i will need to find out the amps.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:01 pm

good link, it gives dimensions too.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/denso_alternators.html

Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:28 pm

W1K1 wrote: good link, it gives dimensions too.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/denso_alternators.html

They give dimensions, but they do not give prices. Also, 300ma draw with key off is excessive. That is about the same as leaving your dash lights on all the time. Good way to drain your battery.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:09 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: W1K1 wrote: good link, it gives dimensions too.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/denso_alternators.html

They give dimensions, but they do not give prices. Also, 300ma draw with key off is excessive. That is about the same as leaving your dash lights on all the time. Good way to drain your battery.

it looks to me like they have you run the wire that some of us put on the coil over to the battery, but without seeing a diagram that's just my guess.

I used a Geo metro alternator, output is 55amps max IIRC. it's a fairly straightforward bolt in but you will need to make your own strap and if you're anal retentive like I am you'll spend some time making the whole thing truly adjustable and not a hack.