| agdros |
Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:01 pm |
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My first car restoration. I started my research back in November and have been consuming these forums on a nightly basis. Some absolutely fantastic information here.
I picked up a 72 std beetle about 2 weeks ago and here it is.
The previous owner had the car media blasted, put into primer, and was in the process of shaving off the rear window vents, door handles, and other things.
Some exterior body work was also in progress...
Pans have a bit of surface rust. Some areas more than others.
Just a few minutes with a wire brush and it looks like this:
Not sure whats going on underneath...but I will find out soon
Not sure what model this deck lid goes with, but I don't think its for a 72 std. And I have rear fenders for a 73-79 that I will probably try to trade with a local enthusiast for the correct ones for this car.
My plan is to restore the car to original with the exception of the rear window vents. I will probably just finish shaving those off. The doors are in really good shape, and if anyone has un-shaved a door handle I am looking for suggestions.
I will post updates when I make progress. |
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| ExtraNoise |
Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:05 pm |
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I can't wait to see how this goes. I have a 72 as well and it's a lot of fun to see a project thread start from the beginning.
That wire brush really helped! |
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| xSUPER72 |
Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:06 pm |
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| good project! my suggestion would be to pull the body from the pan while you have it in that condition and clean up the pan and put a coat of POR15 on it. you wouldnt regret it. wouldnt cost much and would look great :D |
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| spotco2 |
Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:31 pm |
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It would be easier to swap the doors also.
Otherwise you are going to have to cut sections out of another pair and weld them back in where the filler plates are now.
I've had a few that were in that condition. They are a lot of fun to put back together. |
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| bond007 |
Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:54 pm |
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The decklid is definitely not year correct, it is a '71 (2-vents). Yours should have a 4-vent decklid, (easy to find original Germans here in the classifieds). I would suggest trying the same thing for the doors, trading them for a set of un-shaved ones form another member here.
Where are you located? There's a guy here in North Carolina that is selling a red '74 standard shell (no engine) for $250 transmission included. You can check it here in the classifieds section. |
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| DogN8tor |
Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:00 am |
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Before you pour a lot of $$$ into the car; do a compass point measurement to see if the front body is square. Why? It'll save you a ton of time and concern in the long run if the car was hit (or you even think it may have been damaged).
Take a long curtain rod & tape 2 - 4 to 5 inch wires on the ends at 90 degrees to make a fixed compass pointer. The end wires should be at 90 degrees and pointing out at the same axis. Shape looks like a long thumb and forefinger only straighter.
Using first inbound hole on RT hood surround at base of front windshield (where hood seal rubber tit projects thru) extend the rod to lower left rivet hole (at the hood release fixture plate) check and then tape the rod fixed at that point so it can't move out.
Now take that fixed length rod and compare one side to the other using the left surround hole to the right rivet hole in the hood release plate.
The holes should be the same length +/- 1/8th, if not ... it's your call.
This method is used by a local VW body man with accurate results.
It works because the trunk release plate is riveted at the exact center of the body.
Wish I'd done it before I did my paint $$$$$. |
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| agdros |
Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:42 am |
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The front and rear aprons have been replaced so not sure if that will work, but I will definitely check the entire front clip.
Someone else pointed out that the pans are not original either. They appear to be from a -71. The seats I have were not in the car when I bought it. Will probably spend a few minutes checking to see if they fit.
There is some kind of caulk junk between the body and pan. Using a heat gun and scraping that stuff out.
Will post a few pictures of that later today. |
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| MoparFreak69 |
Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:47 am |
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Yeah those pans (or at least seat rails) are from 70 or earlier. If you decide to keep them you will want to look for seats from that vintage. If you want to either put custom seats in it, or something original and decide to remove those seat rails from the pans I just happen to know someone who could use them.
Keep us updated with plenty of pics! |
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| agdros |
Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:36 am |
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Didn't get much work done this week, but I picked up several tools.
Did I mention this is the first time I have ever done body work on a car?
I still need to buy:
Rust Bullet or other Rust prevention paint
Sanding Blocks
Sand Paper
Primer - Sealer
Primer - High fill
Anything else I might need?
Thanks |
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| agdros |
Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:38 am |
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Built a body dolly and have started taking stuff apart.
Slow progress, but getting started.
Working on taking apart the front end first.
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| lactose7 |
Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:17 am |
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Congrats. Looks like you're making good progress.
You may want to check out Masterseries Silver. It worked out very well for me as a rust preventative. I sprayed two light coats of it on my '68 beetle as a base primer a day before spraying two medium coats of Slick Sand epoxy primer, and finally 3 coats of color. It has been about a year now, and so far no sign of any rust or any problems with the finish. I used one quart of Masterseries for the whole car.
http://nomorerust.com/silver.htm
Be sure not to get any of it on you, because it will not come off! Also, I used a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun to spray it because I wanted to be able to just throw the gun away after shooting the Masterseries.
Anyway, good luck and keep us updated on your progress. |
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| agdros |
Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:20 pm |
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I picked up a product called Chassis Saver last month.
My local PPG dealer had it on the shelf and I found a few threads here where people were talking about it. Its similar to por15.
Having some tool issues, and I plan to go by my father-in-law's tomorrow and pickup a larger socket set. Need to break loose the 26mm and 32mm nuts/bolts that hold the transmission and the rear wheel.
If I get more than 2 hours straight to work on the car, I should have the chassis stripped down completely. I will then be ready to flip it over and see what kind of rust issues I have on the bottom. |
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| agdros |
Wed Mar 31, 2010 4:40 pm |
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I was starting to do some cleanup today when i noticed something...
something is not like the other...
here is a closer look...
So which pan is correct? or is either one correct?
btw this is a 72 std beetle.
Thanks |
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| agdros |
Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:26 pm |
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slow progress.
Got the transmission and rear brakes out today.
This was the wrench I used to break lose the rear axle nuts. Well the wrench, a bottle of wd40, and a rubber mallet.
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| LeviMan2001 |
Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:33 pm |
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| Dang! Either those were loose nuts or you're a beast, I've heard some horror stories on those nuts. Also, looks like a solid base you've got there! |
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| RomanBug |
Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:20 pm |
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| glad to see some progress. I know how it goes, ive been putting an engine in my 63 since January. |
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| agdros |
Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:18 pm |
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almost done taking stuff apart.
I am wondering if I should take apart the rear spring and torsion bar on each side?
I watched the video of the guy lowering the type 3 and know how to take apart the rear springs, but without weight on top it may be difficult. Any suggestions? |
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| vinnysdubs |
Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:28 am |
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| what happened to this project? |
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