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Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:33 pm

hey. i have a type 3 manual and 1972 FI with a good bottom end. will this carb work http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/pts/1581528601.html

and should i convert it to carbs or get new electronics and fuel injection and that junk?

will bug motors fit in the type 3? will bus motors fit?
i read that the type 4 will only fit with modifications

where is a good place to get a motor from?

im just starting to search so dont bug me about that plz, im searching as you read this

Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:00 pm

cschuck14 wrote: hey. i have a type 3 manual and 1972 FI with a good bottom end. will this carb work http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/pts/1581528601.html

and should i convert it to carbs or get new electronics and fuel injection and that junk?

will bug motors fit in the type 3? will bus motors fit?
i read that the type 4 will only fit with modifications

where is a good place to get a motor from?

im just starting to search so dont bug me about that plz, im searching as you read this

The single carb manifold will not fit a type 3 not sure about the solex ones.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:44 pm

ok. now i am thinking that i may buy a 66-69 type 3 motor that is carbed

can i put that intake and carb and exst on the existing 72 motor?

also
fasty69 wrote:
just take the deck lid off, then it will get all the air it needs for the trip home

is this the cover inside the car/trunk that covers the motor? if you take it off i thought it was bad for the cooling, but i guess not?????

Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:52 pm

cschuck14 wrote: ok. now i am thinking that i may buy a 66-69 type 3 motor that is carbed

can i put that intake and carb and exst on the existing 72 motor?

the manifolds look like Type 3 manifolds...

Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:01 pm

cschuck14 wrote: ok. now i am thinking that i may buy a 66-69 type 3 motor that is carbed

You'll need a 69 or later Type 3 engine to put in your 72.
Pre-69 engines lack the rear hanger bar, and a 72 doesn't have horns on the subframe to support the transmission.

Quote: can i put that intake and carb and exst on the existing 72 motor?

The duals will fit, Make sure the seller has all the linkage - they don't mention or show it in the ad.

That single port/single carburetor manifold won't work without swapping for single port heads.
Even then, you won't be able to get the necessary preheat and the generator might interfere.

Quote: also
fasty69 wrote:
just take the deck lid off, then it will get all the air it needs for the trip home

is this the cover inside the car/trunk that covers the motor? if you take it off i thought it was bad for the cooling, but i guess not?????

If the cooling bellows and all the tin is in place, you can run without the decklid in a Notchback or Fastback unless you want to haul anything in the trunk.
But, just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

In a Squareback; it helps keep fumes, noise and heat out of the cabin.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:06 pm

Hate to say it, but at least one of those carbs is missing parts. I see the set screw missing that holds the ventura in place.
Also, I do not see the long linkage rods, the air cleaner, or the center mount for the air cleaner.

Just fix your old Fuel injection.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:28 pm

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1577535359.html
will that work at all?

so what motors will fit in a type 3? of 72 man tran

Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:52 pm

NO, that carb is for a single port engine.
You can use about any Type 3 engine as long as it is a 12V engine.
But you are not going to have an easy time unless it is set up for a 72.
The clutch was changed, and the FI was changed in 1972.
If you want to put carbs on it, you are going to have to spend some money to get the right carbs, and everything that goes with them.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:47 pm

and what about droping a different engine in?
any type 3 12 volt engine?

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:14 am

cschuck14 wrote: and what about droping a different engine in?

can you back up a little? what exactly is wrong with the engine you have? when you say "central coast" do you mean CA? around the SLO area? if so, I'm close to you and we could meet up and I might be able to help you more.

as far as an engine-- there are several good builders you could buy a block from, or even a turn-key but it all takes $$$$.

do what Russ said and just fix your FI. It's not that hard, and you'll avoid alot of problems. carbs are a royal PITA for the beginner.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 2:15 am

JSMskater wrote: cschuck14 wrote: and what about droping a different engine in?

can you back up a little? what exactly is wrong with the engine you have? when you say "central coast" do you mean CA? around the SLO area? if so, I'm close to you and we could meet up and I might be able to help you more.

as far as an engine-- there are several good builders you could buy a block from, or even a turn-key but it all takes $$$$.

do what Russ said and just fix your FI. It's not that hard, and you'll avoid alot of problems. carbs are a royal PITA for the beginner.

as soon as i say your going to say oh i saw that one on cl. well, fire
there was a fire coming from the fuel line. the block is fine as well as the top end, the fi is burned a little and the wiring is toast it only burned for 10 minnutes or so and not very large flame either

so

im looking for a replacement motor, or fi parts and i will rewire myself
the car is beautiful. and yes im in slo CsChuck14 at gmail is the email address of myself

Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:31 am

I'd be kind of skeptical that "i will rewire myself" a burnt FI wiring harness? The connectors/boots are NLA. joeskater could build a new FI wiring harness for you?

Edit: Check out my ads for more possibilities.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:25 am

JSMskater wrote: carbs are a royal PITA for the beginner.
Hater :shock: I don't say that about FI... :D
Agree with the advice though.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:25 pm

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1581440085.html

so if i buy this car can i swap the motor into my type 3 and use my existing trans? or do i need to use the trans on this car? which is manual also

also i have carb expirence, i understand rich, lean, low speed high speed idle all that jazz
AND i am currently taking an automotive electronics course as well as engine overhaul procedures

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:27 pm

NO, you have IRS rear suspension. It requires the engine case to have the mounting points for the rear cross member.
A 67, would not have those cast into the case.
If you want to buy the car, and swap the fuel system over to your burned engine, then yes, it will work, if it is complete.
But that is a lot to pay for a set of carbs.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:43 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote:
But that is a lot to pay for a set of carbs.

haha obviously. but after its running id like to sell it(because its too nice for me to drive) and then id drive the 67 with body damage
is the carb controlled by a cable running from the pedal

and has anyone ever fabricated mounting brackets? can i weld something up for the mounting holes

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:48 pm

The VW engine case is magnesium. It burns, instead of welding.
You cannot weld something on.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 1:39 pm

66311 wrote: JSMskater wrote: carbs are a royal PITA for the beginner.
Hater :shock: I don't say that about FI... :D
Agree with the advice though.
:lol:

Let me edit what I mean -- DUAL carbs are a PITA for beginners, and thats basically the only option you have on later t3 engines without some more fab work. FI is just as big a PITA for beginners, the learning curve might even be a little steeper, but IMO if the components are ok and it's just the wiring harness... well that's just a no brainer to fix. FI is pretty hardy and reliable IF the underlying constants are in good order-- fuel, compression, and spark. The problem with carbs is a lot of people just "tune around" poor timing and wonky fuel pressure and then wonder why it runs like shit. they end up killing a motor they could have saved if they just took the time to fix it right :roll:

Chuck- you have a PM. If you like, i can take a look at the damage and try to advise you on the best course of action for what you wanna do with the car. If you're just trying to flip it, because "its too nice to drive" then keep the FI-- most buyers prefer the originality to just slapping on a pair of carbs and having it run like crap. if the harness is in terrible shape, you can hunt around for another one or like Mike suggested have someone build you a new one. Keep in mind, whether you go through yourself, jeff Blowsby, or me, building a harness isn't cheap or easy. I've done it, and it's not as simple as it seems.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 2:17 pm

another question porsche 914. can i make the motor fit?

and i think ill need a harness. what price am i looking at

Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:57 pm

cschuck14 wrote: another question porsche 914. can i make the motor fit?

and i think ill need a harness. what price am i looking at

a used harness (with unknown condition) can be found in the classys from anywhere between free and 100 bucks, often times you get lucky and its perfectly fine except being a little dirty or missing a boot here and there. A NOS (true NOS) one can range between 150-250. A BRAND NEW one, depending on who makes it for you, can run between 300-450.

you'll likely spend a lot more than that on a 914 motor and all the fab work and parts you'll need to make it fit, and it's about on par with a set of carbs, except you already have all the stuff for FI so it doesn't make any sense to have to go in and pull all the fuel lines and set it up for carbs, get a mech or smaller elec. pump, etc etc. there is a lot more involved than just getting the carbs and linkage if you want to make the swap and do it safely/right.