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Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:46 pm

1971 Convertible top question: there are two woven straps inside the convertible top, which somehow are involved with mounting of the combined metal/wooden frame for the rear window. Does anyone KNOW exactly how these go, like under or over that frame or whatever? That would be real helpful to me.

Also, what kind of stapler or staples should one use to tack to the rear window wood frame? Most of the pneumatic staples I've seen are 3/4 inch or longer, too long for use there. Or would a manual or electric-powered staple gun work there. Thanks.

Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:02 am

Just did the top on my '71 about a year ago.

The strap does not go over the top. There are openings on the metal frame at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I put in screws thru the straps and into that opening.

For stapling I used a kangaro ts13-h stapler with 24/8 (8mm) and 23/13 (13mm) staples.

Byas

Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:37 am

FYI

There is a lot of moisture around soft tops. Any normal staple will rust over time, eventually failing because of the rust.

Stainless Steel Staples are available and I highly recommend using them. They ARE hard to find and when found are EXPENSIVE but worth the investment.

If you can't locate them, let me know I have a local tool supply store that stocks them. I'd be happy to pick up a box and ship it off to you.

Dave

Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:04 am

Thanks, both of you. In Arizona, I'm not sure I need stainless steel staples, and all staples for pneumatic staplers at Ace Hardware and Home Depot were like 1.5 inches long. Here's what I've done so far:

I rebuilt the wood section that fits into the metal rear window frame (sides and bottom, re-used the non-warped top particle board section).

I'll attach those two straps to the frame itself using screws. For staples, I bought a 20 guage pneumatic stapler ($20) and 3/8 depth staples ($8) from Harbor Freight Tools (most pneumatic staplers use 1/4 inch staples like 1.5 inches long, too long). So now I need to borrow an air compressor, needs like 4 CFM, too much capacity for the $60 air compressors, and I realize that I won't be continuously shooting staples, there will be a few seconds in between. But that will need to wait, there's liquid water falling from the sky today, think that's the "rain" stuff the old timers talk about here in Arizona....but it was sunny and low 70s all week up until now...

Sat Feb 20, 2010 11:16 am

Cusser wrote: Thanks, both of you. In arizona, I'm not sure I need stainless steel staples, and all staples for pneumatic staplers at Ace Hardware and Home Depot were like 1.5 inches long. Here's what I've done so far:

I rebuilt wood section to fit into the metal rear window frame (sides and bottom, re-used the non-warped top particle board section). I'll attach those two straps to the frame itself using screws. For staples, I bought a 20 guage pneumatic stapler ($20) and 3/8 depth staples ($8) from Harbor Freight Tools (most pneumatic staplers use 1/4 inch staples like 1.5 inches long, too long). So now I need to borrow an air compressor, needs like 4 CFM, too much capacity for the $60 air compressors, and I realize that I won't be continuously shooting staples, there will be a few seconds in between. But that will need to wait, there's liquid water falling from the sky today, think that's the "rain" stuff the old timers talk about here in Arizona....but it was sunny and low 70s all week up until now...

Yeah, after I wrote that I looked at where you are, do you even have moisture down there?? I've been there in the summer, no hurry to ever return!

Check for flooring staples. They use narrow crown short staples when they do stairs.

they are made, you just need to find an outlet

http://packagingandfastening.com/air_finish_staples_narrow_crown.htm

Dave

Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:23 pm

Cusser wrote: For staples, I bought a 20 guage pneumatic stapler ($20) and 3/8 depth staples ($8) from Harbor Freight Tools (most pneumatic staplers use 1/4 inch staples like 1.5 inches long, too long). So now I need to borrow an air compressor...

It turns out that this Harbor Freight $20 pneumatic stapler ($25 less 20% coupon) WORKED GREAT, what a find. I borrowed my neighbor's big air compressor, and it never even started up again, so maybe a small air compressor might work fine for it.

Next step is to glue the inside headliner onto the metal of the frame (there's not enough to staple there, and some inner headliner was quite brittle, then try to fit the rear window. I'm able to latch the top, so nothing (yet) is pulling out (I hate pulling out).

Complete new top and repaint is scheduled when the kids get out of college in three years !!!

Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:07 am

Updated: my 19-year-old daughter returned from college for spring break, and helped me install the window, success. I first tried dishwash liquid/water to lube it, then switched to glycerine (helps to work for a soap company). We used 3/16 inch string and some pointy, bent tools to do this, took about a full hour. But it's completed, and I'm happy with the result. My metal rear window frame, and hence the wood I bent to its shape, may have been a tiny bit less-curved due to stretching or warpage of the original particle board frame over the years. But the wooden frame pieces I made apparently dis the trick.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:34 pm

Very ingenious solution and very good looking result!

I'll be sending my vert frame out to you for
it's needed refurbishing! :D

Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:43 pm

julrich366 wrote: Very ingenious solution and very good looking result!

I'll be sending my vert frame out to you for
it's needed refurbishing! :D

Like I posted: I wasn't sure I could remount the window frame, so I partly did this for the challenge. I had to get a $20 pneumatic stapler, and it took time to bend/cut/file the wood pieces. If I had known positively that I would be able to complete this, I may have bought the plastic oval insert from West Coast Metric or the squared hard rubber tacking strip sold by Chuck's Convertible Parts. Either way, I would've needed the stapler, electric or manual stapler would not have worked.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:40 pm

Cusser wrote: ... electric or manual stapler would not have worked.

Not true... Manual works just fine. That's what I used. No issues even with 13mm deep staples.

B

Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:28 pm

Cusser wrote:

NICE SAVE!!!!!!!!

Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:58 pm

bnam wrote: Cusser wrote: ... electric or manual stapler would not have worked.

Not true... Manual works just fine. That's what I used. No issues even with 13mm deep staples.

B

Your manual stapler must be considerably more manly than mine. Mine wouldn't drive staples (shorter than 13mm) even half way in. Similar with my electric one (Stanley) which jams up and is a total piece of junk, should have returned it just after a bought it years ago, I will be throwing that away. I also believe that Stanley or no one makes staples for it any longer: great design Stanley, on both fronts. You wanted more profit by having a proprietary sized staple, and you ended up loosing customers for life.