Outback Kampers |
Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:10 am |
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rotaecho wrote: So, I've been looking at the photos between an AHU oil-pump and the DV oil-pump.
Someone was saying the DV oil-pump is better since it's designed for the 50 degree angle, but it looks pretty much the same from my photo comparisons.
I plan on using a windage tray too
Advice here of which is best to go with?
Thanks!
ONLY the proper diesel Vanagon pump for the DV oil pan! The stock AHU pump pickup has the wrong angle and does not reach the bottom of the DV pan. It is possible to modify the pickup tube of the AHU pump to replicate the drop and angle of the DV pump pickup, if you have the skills. But I always use a new Febi DV pump. (avoid Meyle, of course!) |
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rotaecho |
Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:15 am |
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Wow! Good information glad I caught this!
There's two P/N's I see for the DV oil-pump:
068115105BP
and
068115105BE
I see BP in stock in various locations, so am I correct to assume this is the proper DV oil-pump?
westyventures wrote: rotaecho wrote: So, I've been looking at the photos between an AHU oil-pump and the DV oil-pump.
Someone was saying the DV oil-pump is better since it's designed for the 50 degree angle, but it looks pretty much the same from my photo comparisons.
I plan on using a windage tray too
Advice here of which is best to go with?
Thanks!
ONLY the proper diesel Vanagon pump for the DV oil pan! The stock AHU pump pickup has the wrong angle and does not reach the bottom of the DV pan. It is possible to modify the pickup tube of the AHU pump to replicate the drop and angle of the DV pump pickup, if you have the skills. But I always use a new Febi DV pump. (avoid Meyle, of course!) |
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Outback Kampers |
Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:45 am |
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BP is the correct number. Not the other. |
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rotaecho |
Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:43 pm |
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I had BP on my build notes on the website. My brain had a major fart. I even found the 068115105BP one in the garage I purchased a few months back. It's been a hectic few weeks from my brothers death, so I'm still a bit scatter brained.
Thanks for putting the time to respond.
westyventures wrote: BP is the correct number. Not the other. |
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nickgiles101 |
Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:15 am |
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Hello
I am trying to get the right answers, but seem to be getting mixed messages from different mechanics and parts suppliers. Here is the low-down:
We have an 82’ Westy with a 1.9L Golf engine, it is very slow and we would like to upgrade. Found a mechanic in Alaska (Accurate Auto) that said he can do the swap as long as we find him the car. He assures me that he can do it.
Now here is where things get interesting (keep in mind I am not mechanically inclined), AK guy says we need a conversion kit for the TDI. Okay fine I call Quality German Auto Parts as recommended by you all. German guy tells me we don’t need a conversion kit because it has already had an engine swap done. Is this true?
He also tells me AK guy will need to modify the left motor mount, install an intercooler (which I may already have, again not mechanically inclined), and maybe think about a second oil cooler since we plan on driving it down to the Lower 48 for an extruded road trip. German guy also tells me we might want the gearing changed in the tranny to get optimum gas mileage.
Does any of these make sense? Do you have clarity, wisdom, and knowledge to bestow upon me? Please and thank you! |
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Outback Kampers |
Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:31 am |
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nickgiles101 wrote: Hello
I am trying to get the right answers, but seem to be getting mixed messages from different mechanics and parts suppliers. Here is the low-down:
We have an 82’ Westy with a 1.9L Golf engine, it is very slow and we would like to upgrade. Found a mechanic in Alaska (Accurate Auto) that said he can do the swap as long as we find him the car. He assures me that he can do it.
Now here is where things get interesting (keep in mind I am not mechanically inclined), AK guy says we need a conversion kit for the TDI. Okay fine I call Quality German Auto Parts as recommended by you all. German guy tells me we don’t need a conversion kit because it has already had an engine swap done. Is this true?
He also tells me AK guy will need to modify the left motor mount, install an intercooler (which I may already have, again not mechanically inclined), and maybe think about a second oil cooler since we plan on driving it down to the Lower 48 for an extruded road trip. German guy also tells me we might want the gearing changed in the tranny to get optimum gas mileage.
Does any of these make sense? Do you have clarity, wisdom, and knowledge to bestow upon me? Please and thank you!
You might consider the AAZ 1.9 turbodiesel as one option, it will bolt right in place using stock mounts. Since you already have a diesel there, no conversion parts are necessary.
The TDI left engine mount mod can be avoided by using the turbo and exhaust manifold from a late-version AAZ.
An intercooler is definitely needed. Oil, cooler, not really - the TDI original cooler is fine; if you plan to haul heavy loads and additional stress on the engine, swapping out the original TDI cooler for the V6 one will cover the additional stress and heat without an additional external cooler.
Gearing will definitely need to be changed with the increased power.
One other thing worth noting: if you buy an engine from Quality German, be very sure you get a good warranty because not all of their engines have been good. AND, under no circumstances buy an 'mTDI' from them, because the pumps they use for their mTDI have a high failure rate and poor performance. |
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AndyBees |
Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:38 am |
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nickgiles101 wrote: Hello
I am trying to get the right answers, but seem to be getting mixed messages from different mechanics and parts suppliers. Here is the low-down:
We have an 82’ Westy with a 1.9L Golf engine, it is very slow and we would like to upgrade. Found a mechanic in Alaska (Accurate Auto) that said he can do the swap as long as we find him the car. He assures me that he can do it.
Now here is where things get interesting (keep in mind I am not mechanically inclined), AK guy says we need a conversion kit for the TDI. Okay fine I call Quality German Auto Parts as recommended by you all. German guy tells me we don’t need a conversion kit because it has already had an engine swap done. Is this true?
He also tells me AK guy will need to modify the left motor mount, install an intercooler (which I may already have, again not mechanically inclined), and maybe think about a second oil cooler since we plan on driving it down to the Lower 48 for an extruded road trip. German guy also tells me we might want the gearing changed in the tranny to get optimum gas mileage.
Does any of these make sense? Do you have clarity, wisdom, and knowledge to bestow upon me? Please and thank you!
.................................................................................
Nick, if your Vanagon already has a Golf 1.9 engine in it, there is either an adapter plate or the person doing that conversion used a "bell housing" from a Diesel Transmission. The old 1.6 diesel engine has the same bolt pattern as the TDI engine (IZ, AZZ, AHU, ALH, BEW, BRM, etc.... even a 1974 gasser engine has he same bolt pattern).
Since you say it is slow, my guess the conversion was done using the existing Diesel Transmission which is very 'low geared" straight from the factory. The low gearing was necessary for the little 1.6 Diesel Engine.
Yes, the big challenge is fabricating the motor mount brackets (depending on which engine you use). From there, it all depends what you want to know about your TDI conversion, i.e., OBD, CEL, etc.
Below is a link to my project: Be warned, it is very long. There are things in it that were experimental for me as well as fishing in the dark. However, about 99.9% of everything necessary to do an ALH TDI engine transplant is in the Thread. On the first page of the link, scroll down to see a list of the various Vanagon Transmissions with gear ratios and ring & pinion ratios.
From a very biased stand point, ALH TDIs rock .... I was in your neck of the woods two years ago with my '84 ALH TDI Vanagon pulling a PopUp Camper ... great 33 day trip that ended just under 11k miles with no major issues.. (search my Threads in the TDI Club for the 2014 Alaska Vacation thread)
I hope this helps. (edited to clear-up my misunderstanding ^^^)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=276798 |
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r.e.wing_fc3s |
Mon May 08, 2017 11:15 pm |
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Anyone know if there is a source in the U.S. for the adapter for the diesel bellhousing to use a tdi starter? I cant get the 228mm tdi flywheel to work with the stock 1.6 starter and dont want to wait to order one from overseas. I see van-cafe sells some but they dont mention if they work with the diesel bellhousing. |
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rotaecho |
Tue May 09, 2017 8:48 am |
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Karl @ WestyVentures was talking about starting some up a few months back, but not sure if he's started production of those yet. I know he started gasser adaptor production.
I had to source mine over the pond at BerndJager.
Call Peter @ Van-Cafe, and ask if it'd work on the DV bellhousing. He's really cool & responsive!
r.e.wing_fc3s wrote: Anyone know if there is a source in the U.S. for the adapter for the diesel bellhousing to use a tdi starter? I cant get the 228mm tdi flywheel to work with the stock 1.6 starter and dont want to wait to order one from overseas. I see van-cafe sells some but they dont mention if they work with the diesel bellhousing. |
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MarkWard |
Tue May 09, 2017 10:03 am |
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This does not answer the specific question about a starter adapter, but when I upgraded my clutch, I used this thread as a reference. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
I posted the clutch kit I used along with the outcome. I bent the pressure plate tabs in to maintain the balance. I clearanced the bell housing slightly using Andy Bee's info as a reference. I kissed the end of the starter housing with my grinder too per Christopher at T3. Rather than test fit the bellhousing, I just took a chance and bolted the transmission back up. No indication of any rubbing.
Stock diesel starter is working fine. Worse case, if the starter craps out on a trip, I will need to address the starter clearance again. I don't know if the Valeo flywheel I used is different from what you have. It is a TDI dual mass delete kit. mark |
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Outback Kampers |
Tue May 09, 2017 9:34 pm |
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The stock diesel starter will fit with the TDI flywheel, you just need to grind or file a small bit off the nose casting next to the bushing.
After thinking more about producing an adaptor, I decided that the demand wouldn't warrant the bother. I chatted briefly with Simon Baxter at Brickwerks and he said he would begin shipping some over for interested people. Easier that remaking the wheel, and good guys, good pricing. |
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Christopher Schimke |
Tue May 09, 2017 9:38 pm |
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r.e.wing_fc3s wrote: Anyone know if there is a source in the U.S. for the adapter for the diesel bellhousing to use a tdi starter? I cant get the 228mm tdi flywheel to work with the stock 1.6 starter and dont want to wait to order one from overseas. I see van-cafe sells some but they dont mention if they work with the diesel bellhousing.
I have some in stock if you are interested. Send me an email. |
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r.e.wing_fc3s |
Thu May 11, 2017 8:56 pm |
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i ended up deciding to clearance the starter after i could pretty clearly see where it was interfering. that and depressing the tabs on the pp make for a great setup. little if any increase in effort over stock. no chatter or vibration. glad to see thats what other folks have figured out as well. |
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AndyBees |
Fri May 12, 2017 3:51 am |
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FWIW ...
Below are some pics showing where to remove material to mod the diesel starter to fit the G60 style flywheel and others.
Below, you can see the area where the starter nose will rub on the flywheel. In fact, if the starter is not modified, the engine will be locked when the starter is bolted up. The "added" TDC mark fro use on the diesel bell housing can be seen as well.
I later opted for the TDI Starter and adapter. The TDI starter required the use of a relay for the solenoid to operate properly. |
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