TheSamba.com :: View topic - torque converter seal; orientation? leaking upon install

Mon Jul 13, 2020 4:45 pm

In the picture posted above you can clearly see marks from a hammer or punch on the edges of the bore. These small marks are enough to destroy a rubber covered seal and must be smoothed out to reestablish an evenly chamfered edge.
Five minutes Vs a second or third R&R.

Wed Jul 15, 2020 4:02 pm

Cleaned up the burrs as much as I felt comfortable doing so without causing damage. Decided to use two metal clad seals, no sealant on the outside. The TQ shaft after sanding with 900 grit w/d paper still had a detectable groove from the last seal. Without changing that out or using a repair sleeve, I thought using two was the best option. Used a 1 1/2" PVC coupler to drive in flush, then a 1 1/4" PVC coupler to countersink. looks like the ports are still accessible. Not sure if the partially blocked flow will be an issue.

I appreciate everyone's help, suggestions, and experience. I may not always listen, but I hear you!

Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:53 pm

I'm having difficulty removing the torque converter seal. When I pulled, using a similar tool to Ben Huot on his YouTube video, the rubber quickly separated from the metal. At this point, what are my options for removing the metal remainder of the seal?

Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:00 pm

Use a sharp awl, punch a hole in the metal part of the seal.

A slide hammer with a sheet metal screw in the tip.

Screw it into the hole.

Slide the weight back sharply!

One removed seal!

Now...... throw that crap orange seal away and go get a good one.

Dave

Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:12 pm

I don't know why people don't use proper seal pullers, but please go get one from an auto parts store. They are worth their weight in gold. You will greatly reduce your chances of damaging the seal housing if you use a proper seal puller.

Here's an example of a good one:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

kourt

Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:15 am

Thanks for the advice.

Tue Apr 20, 2021 11:31 am

kourt wrote: I don't know why people don't use proper seal pullers

that takes away money for valuable upgrades like LED lights and 16" wheels.

:lol:

Tue Apr 20, 2021 12:09 pm

dabaron wrote: kourt wrote: I don't know why people don't use proper seal pullers

that takes away money for valuable upgrades like LED lights and 16" wheels.

:lol:

I don't have any if that stuff, nor do I have a "proper" seal puller.

My slide hammer with a sheet metal screw has worked well for me for over half a Century....... why change now?

It worked for my Grandfather who started driving about 1900, he showed me the trick..... so 120 years of proven technique ain't half bad is it?

Dave

Tue Apr 20, 2021 12:54 pm

djkeev wrote: 120 years of proven technique

a technique as old as the VW boxer engine design ;)

Tue Apr 20, 2021 1:06 pm

I like that old sheet-metal-screw-and-slide-hammer method as well, but it has limits.

In the case of a modern, all-aluminum engine block (my Volvo XC70), a sheet metal screw that does not drive squarely into the seal will mar the crankcase sealing surface and compound the problem. That's a mistake I cannot afford to make. So I bought a proper seal puller, where I have more control over where the seal puller hook goes.

kourt

Tue Apr 20, 2021 3:01 pm

There's room for both methods.

I've just run with what I know.
At this stage of the game I'm looking at shedding tools, not gathering more!

Dave

Wed May 12, 2021 3:06 pm

Thanks, all. Seal puller worked well (and was a cheap buy from local auto parts store)

Wed May 12, 2021 4:04 pm

Thanks, all. Seal puller worked well (and was a cheap buy from local auto parts store)