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Wed May 05, 2010 7:09 pm

I knew of a coupla jeep people back n the day. It was common practice for them to oil everything up and drive like hell down a dusty road. Return. Repeat as often as desired.

The floor boards of a '65 Falcon from days gone by had zero rust due to the leaky engine and trans misting the underside.

Your results may vary

Wed May 05, 2010 8:19 pm

My first Vanagon (85) was just starting the seam rust syndrome.
I masked off all of the lower seams, blew some panelwax on them--took the tape off, it never grew any farther than first appeared on the seams.
( and it wasn't real bad either--I saw a hint of rust color appearing in the back of the front wheel well seams.)

And I ran the van through the car wash in the winter.
I don't know if it was the panel wax, the weekly washing, or what--but it worked very well in retarding the rust from growing any farther.

PS--

My 74 Westy still has the original panel wax on the bottom side, and inside of all of the side & door panels--it has zero rust anywhere.

It has only 33,000 original miles on it , so I assume it was a dealer applied option.

Wed May 05, 2010 8:32 pm

EVAPORUST is another thing I just heard about on another bbs

Wed May 05, 2010 8:45 pm

I think the original factory rustproofing is wax-based. I am inclined to use wax for compatabiliy. I have heard that you can choose oil or wax, but not really both.

Thu May 06, 2010 7:17 am

Thu May 06, 2010 7:21 am

Thu May 06, 2010 7:23 am

Here is a recipe for it I found on a British car forum:

Take a ½ kilogram of paraffin wax or candle making wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in 2 liters of mineral spirits/ Paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil/ Diesel until all of the wax is dissolved. It might take a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest, heating the mixture in hot water (no open flames) will add in the quick dissolving of the wax. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits/ kerosene/ paraffin/lamp oil/ Diesel will hold. Pour one liter of mineral oil/ non-detergent motor oil into the dissolved mixture. If the mixture is too thick for spraying you can thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a spray-able consistency.

Application:

Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.

Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.

[url]http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/601994/Re_Rustproofing_waxoyl_or_what{/url]

I made some using some old kerosene\diesel I had in the barn. It works better if you set the container in the sun to get it to mix. I got an old paint sprayer at a garage sale for $5 so no I am set. My westy will remain rust free :)

Thu May 06, 2010 7:55 am

<<I got an old paint sprayer at a garage sale for $5 so no I am set. My westy will remain rust free >>

I wanna see the parrafin & diesel mix blow through that 5 buck spray gun ( or for that matter any paint spray gun)

The nozzle would have to be 3/8's or 5/16's to get the wax mixture out of the nozzle.

Now if you had mentioned a body shutz or undercoating gun, you'd be getting somewhere.
The nozzle is big enough to get tar or bed liner through it.

You'll never get the wax out the paint gun's nozzle---even if you've got the brew heated up--it'll start hardening up on the way out of the guns orfice.

Try it--you'll see.

Thu May 06, 2010 8:22 am

Any product containing wax must be heated before spraying.

Bar and Chain oil works well too.

Thu May 06, 2010 8:37 am

Yea--it'd have to stay hot too--all the way outa the gun.

But, if the gun is a pressurized unit , as soon as the air from the compressor would hit it it'd start setting up--especially at the tip & nozzle.

He'd have to drill them both to at least 1/4" to get the jello out of it--and then the tip needle would be too small.

A body undercoated gun would be the way to get this waxing job done--a heated one if there is such a thing--

Bar & Chain oil makes sense--but how long will it hang on?
It's pretty thick stuff--
But then so is gear oil.

How bout just greasing the whole bottom side of the vehicle???

Grease will stick almost forever---

Thu May 06, 2010 10:52 am

Oil alone will not work very well if you already have rust. You need to do a two step process here to be remotely effective.

First get some rust conversion solution, Ospho (at Ace Hardware), Metalprep, Rust Mort or something that contains Phosphoric Acid. Squirt that stuff in the seams a couple of times. It converts the rust, Iron Oxide, to Iron Phosphate. Iron Phosphate is porous and will hold the oil treatment tightly within its structure. The only thing any of the oils or waxes do to prevent rust is to keep oxygen away. If your seal lets O2 in, then it does not work. So years ago, during some war in the pacific we where apparently involved in, can't remember which one. We developed this process, it is commonly referred to as parekerization and was used on the firearms to prevent rusting. Apparently it worked well and we won the war.

Anyhow after step one, step two, use a filming oil. LPS 3, Corrosion X, ACF 50 or any of the other products that leave a film after the volatile component evaporates away. Repeat this process any time you get it really wet. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, then daily.

Thu May 06, 2010 12:33 pm

jmranger wrote: I'd skip WD40 though, since it's not an oil-based product.

Yes, it is, despite the prevalent spoof e-mails about it. Check snopes or even look up the MSDS and you'll see it's pretty much exclusively petroleum based and toxic...

Thu May 06, 2010 12:35 pm

LPS-3 is amazing stuff. Used to use it when I lived on the east coast of Florida-salt spray fell every day on the cars. I sprayed it inside the doors and rockers of an old VW Rabbit I owned, no rust ever developed save around the windshield gasket which I could not spray. My mother's Mazda, with professionally applied undercoating but no LPS-3, rusted apart. Used it on my outboard motor mounts/bolts as well, sprinkler pump housings, etc.

I spray it inside my cro-moly mountain bike frame which sees water, snow and road de-icer as my year-round commuter, and after 14 years of daily use no signs of rust either.

I also use it on my Vanagon, again inside doors but also along the cracked paint overlying my seams. Just dribble it down the seam and allow it to wick in and dry. So far it has done amazingly well. Only problem I have is I have to special order it in Denver-I could buy it by the case at the local hardware store in Florida!

Thu May 06, 2010 10:19 pm

<<So years ago, during some war in the pacific we where apparently involved in, can't remember which one. We developed this process, it is commonly referred to as parekerization and was used on the firearms to prevent rusting.>>

Durring the big one most all ( No--I'll say all) of firearms, machinery parts, --tanks, Half tracks, aircraft were all generously covered with Cosmoline.
What a wonderful product--it starved everything & everything it was sprayed on from any oxygen & moisture damage.
Stuff is still being located in some obscure warhouses all over the planet in cases, still covered in Cosmoline and still as new.
A good friend of mine retores White half tracks and is still able to locate new cases of parts in France, Belgium, Israel, Australia--sitting in USA wood crates--and all of the parts are still brand new.

I don't know about Mr. parker, but the cosmoline worked real good, and I think the EPA Poo- Pooed it's use a couple of years ago.

Good stuff for rust prevention if you could locate a 50 gallon drum of it.

<< Apparently it worked well and we won the war.>>

It worked so well we did happen to win this global conflict.
Wanna really stop rust in it's tracks?
Locate some cosmoline--it's the best of the best

Thu May 06, 2010 10:36 pm

We manufacture parts for Bell Helicopter at work and amongst the products they approve for corrosion-protection is "LPS-3", a product that is MIL-PRF-16173 approved.

LPS-3 performs well plus it is fairly easy to obtain locally so I'll give it a go and shoot my van's "hot" spots with it.

Thu May 06, 2010 10:38 pm

Oh yes cosmoline is indeed great stuff. It looks like fecal matter and smells, well, not quite as bad. It is primarily for long term storage. It effectively keeps oxygen from the parts by sealing it completely.

Parkerization in its firearms use comes in two primary types, manganese and zinc based. The zinc type makes the parts a greenish hue and the manganese makes them black. Most modern weapons use the black, manganese process, leading to the 'Evil Black Rifle' label of most modern assault weapons. whereas the older weapons have the greenish hue of the M1 Garand, for example. The green gave them, apparently, a friendlier look, for a gentler more humane form of killing. Making those weapons less threatening.

Should you want to get either look, simply dissolve manganese powder in the phosphoric acid for the black and heat the solution to around 200° for the evil black look. Or, scrape the copper plating off modern pennies, revealing the zinc and dissolve them in the acid. Then heat this to 180° to get that friendly green look.

Conversion of the rust with the phosphoric acid makes it relatively inert and sops up your barrier product to seal you part. The coating in of itself will not stop rust. It requires the oils to make it effective and form the barrier you seek.

However Terry is right. If you want total protection, by all means, slop some cosmoline on the seam, inside and out. You will cut off the oxygen to the metal. Avoid contact with your clothing, unless it is sacrificial. Your van will gain that unique smell we referred to in the military as: "The dead Englishman smell."

Thu May 06, 2010 10:49 pm

If you want to bore yourself even more with corrosion control, I just posted a DOD review paper on same on my blog. Recognisable products tested.

http://shufti.wordpress.com/

alistair

Fri May 07, 2010 3:13 pm

LPS "protects steel parts indoors for up to 2 years"

Fri May 07, 2010 6:39 pm

Quote: I wanna see the parrafin & diesel mix blow through that 5 buck spray gun ( or for that matter any paint spray gun)

My sprayer does it. No problem...there are other sprayers besides air based ones. Best $5 I spent.

Fri May 07, 2010 10:42 pm

Thats great.