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Mon May 10, 2010 2:44 pm

So, I've purchased Gabriel Hijackers from AutoZone - pictured here is the one for the front of my '69 Type 1. I'm using these to compensate for adding a bunch of weight to my car (it's going to one day have several hundred pounds of batteries where the fuel tank used to be). I'm not using them to raise and lower the car on a daily basis, so I don't want to use the plastic air fittings and lines that come with them. I want schrader valves so I can adjust them and forget them.

Will piece #1 thread out of piece #2 below? (jamb nut on the threads, back out with an impact wrench?)

Here's the Schrader valve - what are the chances that the inside threads are going to match (1/8" NPT on the schrader)? Anybody done this before? The outer threads on the shock are 7/16" fine thread.

Wed May 12, 2010 12:47 pm

I can't really answer your question.
But, I have the same kit (I think so) on the rear of a 73 super. I used the fittings and lines that came with the shocks. I installed the kit and inflated to like 30 psi or what ever the minimim is on the instructions. I don't raise and lower the car either.

Do you just want to aviod plastic lines running to each side? It will somewhat equalize the pressure to each shock.

I am not saying what your doing is bad.( your actually giving me ideas)But if one side leaks out, the car will set lopsided. Vs. Using the manufactures method, if a leak occurs they both go flat.

Wed May 12, 2010 1:14 pm

I would like to avoid having the lines going everywhere. Also, the fitting attachments, lines, and fill valve are all plastic and don't look too sturdy.

I just talked to Dan at tech support with Gabriel and he said the "part 1" and "part 2" in the pic are one piece and will not come apart.

So, a custom machined fitting that has female threads on both ends, one side 7/16" fine thread, and the other 1/8" NPT is the only answer.

I may end up taking the easy route and just install the plastic lines that come with the shocks.

Thu May 13, 2010 4:56 am

You may possibly find an adapter at your FLAP Store, most have an assortment of fittings. Also check Hydraulic and Brake Stores, and Speedway has quite an assortment of brass fittings too. Going to be quite expensive to have fittings made to order.

Fred

Thu May 13, 2010 6:23 am

I would use teflon tape and a coupler. Will the plastic fitting cap that came with the kit fit on the tru-flate valve? If so, finding a coupler should be a piece of cake.

Thu May 13, 2010 7:00 am

The Gabriel connector kit includes adapters, tubing, a schraeder, and a "tee" fitting. If you didn't want to route tubing and a tee, couldn't you just get two kits and rig up seaparately, then each would have its own schraeder?

Fri May 28, 2010 7:25 am

I also posted this question in the "Monroe Air Shocks" thread and DasVolksRodder responded and gave me this link:

http://www.hydraulicstore.com/index.php?loc=items_...e]=1216035

Just amazing - I spent a day or two fruitlessly searching the vast internets and couldn't find anybody making the coupling to go from 7/16-20 JIC to 1/8-NPT pipe thread. Then, boom - a fellow Sambisian hands me the link. This is pretty cool.

I've got (4) of these on order. I'll post a pic when they get here and I get them installed.

Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:52 pm

Installed on front shock:

and on the rear,

The JIC threaded bottom portion is a swivel connection meant to seat on a flared tubing ... mine are tightened against a square cut round hole - probably not going to seal ... we shall see. Used blue thread locker on the bottom and teflon tape on the top.

Tue Jun 08, 2010 12:16 pm

It may just be the angle, but will that clear the axle as it moves up and down?

Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:55 pm

JasonBaker wrote: It may just be the angle, but will that clear the axle as it moves up and down?

Looks like an accident waiting to happen if you ask me !!! :shock:

Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:16 am

spotfreerynse wrote: JasonBaker wrote: It may just be the angle, but will that clear the axle as it moves up and down?

Looks like an accident waiting to happen if you ask me !!! :shock:

It may slightly increase the risk of an accident, but after all it is a VW's and they are not really that safe compared to newer cars anyway. It looks like twotires is building a nice car. When it hits the road it will most likely be maintained better than most other vw's on the road.

Is your concern that one shock will have a sudden loss of pressure and cause the car to sway during cornering? I have some concerns as well, but overall I think this is very interesting.

Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:03 am

The rear axle will not interfere with the schrader valve - the shock body travels up and down with the rear control arm. In fact, if air pressure is added to increase the spring rate, the shock body will move up, making more room between the schrader valve and the axle.

The fronts cannot be mounted until I get some weight on the pan - right now the lower arms are fully extended and the shock body hits the shock tower. I am a little concerned because the valve extends up above the top of the shock body - not sure yet if it is going to interfere with the mount at the top of the shock tower. Or, if it fits will I be able to get a chuck on it to adjust air pressure.

If the adapters leak air and there is a sudden loss of pressure on one corner of the car, then it will drop down to a "stock" suspension situation (riding on the torsion spring only with basically a standard shock in place). The air bladders are there to add spring if needed.

I'm using these to compensate for a problem that I think may happen - that is, the car is going to be so heavy that it will want to sag down so far that the tires rub. If that happens, I'll add air to raise the car up a couple inches to get back to a stock appearing ride height. I don't think that losing all the air in one corner will create a dangerous situation - just a funny looking situation.

If the adapters leak, I have a plan to weld around the swivel (making the adapter a solid piece) then seal the JIC threads with teflon tape.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:58 am

so are you connecting hoses to the shocks?

Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:36 pm

No hoses.

Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:21 pm

The swivel adapters leaked. I was going to just weld around the middle and make 'em solid, but my machinist said he'd just whip up a set of aluminum adapters with 7/16-20 JIC on one end and 1/8" NPT on the other. These should seal no problem.

Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:37 pm

spotfreerynse wrote: so are you connecting hoses to the shocks?

I like this idea because the hoses dry rot and then you have to re-plum everything.

Mon Sep 20, 2010 7:12 pm

JasonBaker wrote: spotfreerynse wrote: so are you connecting hoses to the shocks?

I like this idea because the hoses dry rot and then you have to re-plum everything.

I am using DOT airbrake airline on everything... it will still be useable when the car is just a pile of rust flakes laying around the intact hoses!
:lol:

Fri May 08, 2015 7:33 pm

I want to run 1/4 lines to my hijackers... Could anyone offer some guidance and let me know if this item would solve the issue of adapting the hijackers to npt to run PTC fittings?
Many thanks

http://www.amazon.com/Speedhut-Adapter-inch-Male-Female/dp/B00B5WRNLQ

Mon May 11, 2015 12:08 pm

I've had air shocks like these on the last several trucks and loved them ('87 S10, '91 Toyota...both little trucks and I like to use them like big trucks). I never had a problem with the air lines until I removed and re-installed them. I also never had an issue with road debris or chafing damage (when routing them correctly.)

On the Toyota, I stuck them inside some clear plastic tube just larger than the air lines for additional protection.