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  View original topic: coolant change on incline?
cheeseisgood Tue May 25, 2010 8:51 am

So it is time for some routine maintenance. I need to change out the coolant, but the driveway at our new place is on a slope. Here is how I plan to do things correct me if I am wrong or if there is a better way:

--park in driveway front end pointing downhill

--drain what I can from engine

--drain remainder from radiator and front coolant hoses

--close everything back up and refill with Sierra/DI water and some suby conditioner


What about a flush? I like the idea of cleaning everything out, but there will be a lot more waste to dispose of and ultimately non DI water left in the system

FYI, I also have an ongoing internal head gasket leak

Thanks

PDXWesty Tue May 25, 2010 8:56 am

I think you'd want to point uphill to drain it then downhill to fill it. Even if you're on an incline, I would make yourself a Libby Bong. I just used one for the first time and it worked well. It will save you some frustration.

Also, after trying to completely drain mine and couldn't, I resorted to using a shop vac to get the last gallon out of the system. That worked well too.

chimivee Tue May 25, 2010 11:21 am

cheeseisgood wrote:
--park in driveway front end pointing downhill

--drain what I can from engine

--drain remainder from radiator and front coolant hoses
Why point downhill? As PDX mentioned, I think shop-vac method is way easier. Either way, I'm only able to get about 3 gallons out.

cheeseisgood wrote:
What about a flush? I like the idea of cleaning everything out, but there will be a lot more waste to dispose of and ultimately non DI water left in the system

Just flush with the distilled water. Only a few bucks per flush and it will get more of the old coolant out each time.

PDXWesty Tue May 25, 2010 11:26 am

The 2" x 1 1/2" rubber connector used for the Libby Bong just also happens to fit nicely over my 2" shop vac hose. I tightened it down to the coolant bottle and to the shop vac, opened the radiator bleeded valve, and sucked the system dry. Worked like a champ. Thanks to the Samba for the tip!

chimivee Tue May 25, 2010 11:47 am

PDXWesty wrote: and sucked the system dry.
As in all 4+ gallons out? Hmm... I had a decent seal at the coolant bottle and I felt pretty good suction at the radiator bleed hole. I also pulled a front rad and heater hose and sucked a bit more out... but still could never get it close to dry. What am I doing wrong? Maybe I suck at sucking.

PDXWesty Tue May 25, 2010 11:58 am

The book says it holds 16.7 liters (87+). When I refilled it, it took 14-15 liters, so I got most of it out. I don't know where that last bit hides.

cheeseisgood Tue May 25, 2010 11:58 am

reason I thought down hill would be better was based on gravity draining. I will give the shopvac method a try(I have a very small vac).

I will also probably do a flush w/ DI. cost is not the issue, its the extra gallons of stuff I need to bottle an dispose of. Any Idea where to get cheap bottles to use to gather the waste?

Perales Tue May 25, 2010 12:08 pm

cheeseisgood wrote: Any Idea where to get cheap bottles to use to gather the waste? What about the gallon jugs the distilled water comes in that you will be using? Quantity goes in -> quantity goes out.

cheeseisgood Tue May 25, 2010 12:35 pm

actually quantity goes out....then goes in. Also, the flushing process takes place prior to emptying the new jugs. A large drain pan can only hold so much.

chimivee Tue May 25, 2010 2:57 pm

cheeseisgood wrote: actually quantity goes out....then goes in. Also, the flushing process takes place prior to emptying the new jugs. A large drain pan can only hold so much.
Got a bucket? :wink:

Or...

First drain goes into your shop vac. Fill van w/ distilled water, leaving you with empty jugs. Empty shop-vac into said jugs. Repeat to your heart's content.



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