TheSamba.com :: View topic - Pan

Fri May 28, 2010 5:48 pm

For the past two weeks or so I've been working off and on cleaning up the pan of my '73 Super Beetle to prep it for coat of POR 15. I've used a wire wheel on an angle grinder mostly to remove loose bits of rust and as much of the remnants of the body seal as possible. I also removed all the tarboard to make sure there was nothing hiding under them.

So my question is, how clean do I need to get the pans for POR 15? Do I need to take them down to bare/surface rusted metal or what? Can I apply the POR 15 over top some of the other goop (left over body seal/tar board adhesive) or do I need to remove absolutely all of that?

Sat May 29, 2010 2:06 am

Well.........That all depends

The right way, would be to sand blast and remove all of the old junk/rust/"goop" from the floor pan (or whatever your painting) and then degrease and (then use the metal etching liquid) then paint with the por-15

But...........with por-15 you don't need to get rid of all of this to have the paint hold to the surface.

I have used por-15 (the right way), the low gloss black, on my frame for my 56 ford pickup, I blasted everything off, grease/rust/paint/gobs of oil, degreased it, used the ecthing solution and then put down two coats of the por-15 and it looks great and holds up well (been on for at least 3 years).

On the other hand I had a few parts lying around the garage that I wanted to use as test pieces before I commited to using por-15 on the whole frame of the car (just to be safe, who knows maybe the paint was junk), on these parts I didn't remove any rust or degrease as well as I should have. all I did was smooth the rust down (removing loose scales and dust) with an wire brush on an air gun and then degreased the part (barely) then used the etching solution and then put down a few coat of the por-15.

I left the parts out in the backyard (in the shade, por-15 doesn't have any UV protection unless you topcoat it) for over six months during winter and through the begining of summer just to test the paint and how well it would encapsulate the rust, and it turned out just fine. No problems at all with rust coming through the finish and no bubbling of the rust underneath.

One thing I wouldn't paint over is joint sealer or anything that is squishy to the touch (like a gob of caked on old grease) the paint will cover it but if you happened to bump it with a tool or something it will crack through and you will be able to see the gunk underneath it.

other than that you should be ok.

Sat May 29, 2010 2:41 am

we did pretty much the same test, with the same results

blast, clean metal is the way to go, but it will work
w/rust
the two thin coats .
ware gloves and don't get it on yoiu.
if you do , gas will work for a cleaning solvent

this is a 75 , belongs to a client.

Sat May 29, 2010 4:08 am

Its a really good product!! When I did our cars with it I let the stuff dry on me...... :shock: :shock: It was on there for a week or so. So yea wear gloves an make sure it doesnt go on your face like it did me!!!!!

Sat May 29, 2010 8:01 am

I had problems with fisheyes in a lot of areas. I cleaned and degreased until I was sure the surface was ok, stil had fisheyes. When I painted the engine bay, I cleaned extra carefully and still got fisheyes.

Sat May 29, 2010 9:23 am

then you didn't clean enough

Sat May 29, 2010 10:03 am

harryset wrote: I had problems with fisheyes in a lot of areas. I cleaned and degreased until I was sure the surface was ok, stil had fisheyes. When I painted the engine bay, I cleaned extra carefully and still got fisheyes.

Yea.. lots of people de-grease.. but did you de-other stuff..

Did you alcohol clean it? Did you smoke around it? Guy at the paint store was just warning of such things.

I've had a few things in my life.. that regardless of what solvent I threw on them.. it would fish eye. Probably had some water based nonsense on there. Clean with alcohol, soap.. stuff like that. ANd cleaning with gas or lacquer thinner isn't degreasing. I only use liberal quantities of 3m or ppg degreaser (i don't think the brand matters.. point being, they were for painting). Haven't gotten a fish eye on anything in years and years.

soap, rinse, degrease, alcohol is usually the way I go.. then cleaner and acid, then degreaser.. for the hand/arm touching if not gloved.

But yea.. I bought a bunch of nitrile gloves for painting. Too fragile. My fingers are currently grey from painting inside my quarter panels. touch anything and the gloves rip open. On your moist skin.. por sticks instantly. Use some long chemical resistant gloves and I think spraying would be ill advised.

Fri Jun 11, 2010 5:33 pm

Hey spook, that pan looks awesome!

here are a few pics of my 56 ford frame that I painted with por-15 (I know its not a VW but, it shows the steps for painting por-15)

all of the painting was done with a brush (use por-15's brushes they don't loose bristle's), with two super this coats (everything black red and silver is done with por-15)

The Frame halfway through media blasting (looked pretty ugly)

The Frame after blasting, and degreasing

After applying the zinc phosfate Etching coating

and this is after 2 coats of por-15 semi gloss

and here it is all together, I also painted the rear end red with por-15.

and here is the rear end, with some red por-15 (a little dusty)

Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:49 pm

What ever you want to put POR-15 over, paint or bare metal, it has to be super clean and scuffed up, or it can peel off like tape.