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Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:18 pm

Janerick3

This is also part 111.127.303 and it has a lubrication hole but in a different location. I have two of them...being one the original of the car (1958 engine).

Could it be that the factory reintroduced it...later ? (the hole)

Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:45 pm

The 08.29 spacers have that same small hole on the bottom; it's the large hole on top that was eliminated on the 111.127.303 spacers.

Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:24 pm

Thanks for the clarification.
I understand that this means that the small hole is not the cause of the oil weeping....

Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:46 pm

OK.... so for my May of 57 - no large hole on top, but small hole on bottom is fine on the spacer I'm looking for. Wow.

Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:48 pm

I have two 08.29 spacers and one 111.127.303 spacer. One 08.29 has the hole on the top and one does not. However, even that one hole on the top is simply a depression, it does not go all the way into the tube for the push rod. Definitely bakelite in there, not gunked up. They all have the hole on the bottom which does connect to the push rod tube.

The 08.29 spacers are marked differently. One has a '1' marked on one of the quadrants, the other a '6'. The 08.29 markings are on SW and SE quadrants respectively.

Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:46 am

Hey Flavio, Paison? It was suggested that we could try running straight 30W oil instead of 10w30 oil. I think it could make good sense especially in this summer heat. Could actually be the easiest solution. What do you think?

Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:13 pm

I use 15W40, always. Maybe a ticker oil could solve it. I've no experience with that.
But as said before, a new spacer could also help. Less gap between the pushrod and the spacer...

In your engine, do you have an external by pass oil filter ?

Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:54 pm

Yes, I've been running the straight 30W oil and it really doesn't seem any thicker. And Yes, I do have the oil bypass filter as well.
The latest idea, is to go ahead and try to reduce the crancase pressure by venting a set of valve covers.
Also, I got another spacer and push rod in today, and it's the 111 127.303 without the extra hole. I'm going to have to check and see if the existing spacer is the earlier model with the hole. I am also wondering who has the paper gaskets for the spacer?
Are you thinking that its possible that the extra oil filter/cooler is producing more pressure?

Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:06 pm

I would think if excess crankcase pressure is the problem your engine would be flinging oil off the back of the crank pulley as well. If you clean it up and then run the engine at idle and find it is leaking at the pump or flange surfaces, I would suspect it's a gasket or sealing surface issue.

Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:22 pm

Isolated to just weep hole under extended situations.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 4:57 am

I think it's not crank case pressure. I have the vented valve covers and the small hole weeping (just a litle bit of oil and .... not everyday)
I'm asking about the by pass filter because recently I have reduced the oil flow to the by pass filter in order to have more fuel pressure in the engine.
After that move it seems that the "weeping thing" is much better... (?)
I need to do some more tests to confirm IF the oil flow reduction through the by pass filter is a possible "cure".

About the paper gaskets I thing the better way is to buy some gasket papers in an auto store and copy them. You can buy 2 or 3 thicknesses and do what you want... it's easy.

I'll report what I will possible found about the by pass filter thing...

Fri Jul 08, 2011 6:06 am

I would be really interested in your bypass oil filter findings, along with instructions on just how to adjust that.
And thanks for the vented valve cover report. I can hold back on that for now. Keep up the good work.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 5:50 pm

Here's my two cents...

I believe the function of the large cup-shaped hole on top of the early 08.29 bakelite bases was to act as a drip oiler that catches oil as it splashes within the crankcase and then drips it onto the pushrod. The oil them migrates to the fuel pump pivot through the back-and-forth motion of the pushrod. The small hole at the bottom of the flange was a return drain from the fuel pump, so the fuel pump wouldn't overfill with oil, assuming the drain wasn't clogged.

When VW decided that greasing the fuel pump was a better method of lubrication that the drip oiler, the large drip-oiler hole on top was no longer needed. However, the small return drain hole was retained.

If the pushrod hole in the flange becomes larger over time die to wear, more oil will migrate from the crankcase into the fuel pump than can drain back through the small hole, so the base will fill up with oil and eventually seep out through the weep hole. If this is the case, then a new or less worn flange and/or pushrod is needed.

Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:04 pm

New plan:
- Check condition/type block and push rod, replace as needed. Repack with high melting point grease.
- Okrasa kit maybe running to lean and hot under extreme conditions. Replace carburator main jets to 1/30's. Keep bypass oil filter/cooler as is.
- Switch from straight 30W oil to possibly AMSOIL Synthetic 10W 30 oil.

I think the high heat is playing a role in the pressure thats causing the weep hole to blow when on a long hot highway run. I'm told the SYN OIL will reduce oil temp considerably and the 1/30 main jets a little more. I have also heard the WW Kit is known to run a little lean.

Sat Jul 09, 2011 2:30 am

Just as an opinion, I think that it would be preferable to just fit a new spacer and pushrod and see what happens.....

Do only one thing/change at a time.

Sat Jul 09, 2011 3:39 am

Locations of weep holes in spacer block:

From 53 Manual:

From 58 Manual:

x2 for replacing the guide block.

Looks like WW don't have any in stock, but CIP are showing them: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-127-303 (Disclaimer: I have never bought one from there, so I don't know if they are any good.)

Sun Jul 10, 2011 6:23 pm

Great diagrams. Question- While synthetic oil has it's obvious advantages won't any leaks only be accelerated by it's use?

Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:29 pm

Here's my take on it, bear in mind this comes as an ill-informed mech engineer:
Leakage rates in this sort of case are determined by the size of the hole & the viscosity. The viscosity of mineral or synthetic oil is what is on the side of the packet and is set by the mix of base stocks etc. A 10W-40 mineral will leak the same as a 10W-40 synthetic for a while. Mineral oils go out of viscosity spec far quicker than synthetics, so in the long term the synthetic will leak less (for the same viscosity)
Synthetic oils permit wider variation in viscosity in making up the multi-grade (i.e. 5W-50 can be done in synthetic, but very hard/impossible with mineral base stocks)

I'd never worry about going synthetic with a 36hp, the oil needs to be changed so often that you never get to use the advantages of the synthetic.

Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:51 pm

i have about 6 of these 36hp fuel pump blocks if youre interested in one- just describe what number stampings, holes, drains etc. you want to have on yours!

Mon May 11, 2015 7:14 pm

OK, digging this old thread up from the past. I am replacing a later 36hp pump with a correct 54 wavy top pump. The flange I have is a later style without the large oil hole on top (only the small hole on bottom). Can I use this flange with the early style pump if I pack the pump base with grease? I've searched the forums and can't find an answer. Thanks.