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Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:10 pm

Quote: tie knot to prevent pull out
Very important.

Thu Jun 10, 2010 5:48 am

If someone still wants one here is a open box unit cheap-
http://www.compactappliance.com/FP430OB-Compact-Ed...lt,pd.html

Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:06 am

fairweather wrote: Pretty straight forward, I removed the side panel and the small panel that holds the 12V connector. Replace the 12V plug with a grommet and feed the new wire through the hole, tie knot to prevent pull out and crimp to existing wires making sure you keep the polarity correct. On the other end I reused the 12V plug.

In researching my electric only compressor fridges, saw your post.

Hope I don't come off sounding like a dick here, and I could be wrong, but the blue insulated connectors look like they were crimped with the non insulated portion of the crimp tool. IF so, that tool may have "punched through" to copper. Maybe not though. (can't tell for sure from pic)

Is that a factory job on those crimp connectors? (yellow arrows)

If it was done by you, like I said above.

If I'm right, minor detail, but I'd suggest putting a wrap or 2 of electrical tape over those crimp connectors. Just for safetys sake. :)

Neil.

Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:44 pm

My power cord broke too (plus I found it too short) where did you get your replacement? Did you custom make it or did you buy it fully made? I've been looking for a replacement and I found a 10' one (made for the the edgestar which is the same fridge) but it's $52.00!! Crazy. I would really appreciate any help you could give me in sourcing the materials. Thanks!

[quote="fairweather"]I have the Edgestar version of that cooler and am very happy with it. The only other unit I have exp with is the VF fridge and they are completely different units. I have a weekender so fridge replacement wasn't an option.

The Edgestar is very well built with the exception of the 12v cord that came with it, it is flimsy and I stepped on it the first day. It has been replaced with a hard wired 10' long 12g wire so I can put it outside. It does make some fan noise, very similar to any CPU fan but I just put it outside.

Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:53 am

Quote: "LittleClau" My power cord broke too (plus I found it too short) where did you get your replacement? Did you custom make it or did you buy it fully made? I've been looking for a replacement and I found a 10' one (made for the the edgestar which is the same fridge) but it's $52.00!! Crazy. I would really appreciate any help you could give me in sourcing the materials. Thanks!

If you are talking about the 12v power cord? You can buy a polarized replacement cord at
Radio Shack and cut the 110v plug off. Then attach the wires to the respected positions
of your cord. This would make it longer than just putting a new 12v plug on the new power cord.
Make sure that it is polarized!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875430

I also bought a right angle 110v power cord. I did look for a right angle polarized cord but did
not find anything.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875426

Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:56 am

fairweather wrote: It has been replaced with a hard wired 10' long 12g wire so I can put it outside. It does make some fan noise, very similar to any CPU fan but I just put it outside.

But not at night, right? Leaving a fridge outside the van sounds like a great way to get some guests to partake in your goodies, the four legged kind of guests.

Paul

Thu Mar 10, 2011 5:51 pm

Timwhy wrote: Quote: "LittleClau" My power cord broke too (plus I found it too short) where did you get your replacement? Did you custom make it or did you buy it fully made? I've been looking for a replacement and I found a 10' one (made for the the edgestar which is the same fridge) but it's $52.00!! Crazy. I would really appreciate any help you could give me in sourcing the materials. Thanks!

If you are talking about the 12v power cord? You can buy a polarized replacement cord at
Radio Shack and cut the 110v plug off. Then attach the wires to the respected positions
of your cord. This would make it longer than just putting a new 12v plug on the new power cord.
Make sure that it is polarized!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875430

I also bought a right angle 110v power cord. I did look for a right angle polarized cord but did
not find anything.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875426

I bought the cord from Radio Shack and the guy there said that I can't splice the AC cord to the 12V cord. I wanted to check with you first before I went ahead and tried it because I don't want to fry my fridge. Obviously I'm cutting off the plug from the AC cord and splicing it to the part of the DC cord that plugs into the lighter. I know to match up the polarization.

Thanks for you help!

Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:09 pm

LittleClau wrote:
I bought the cord from Radio Shack and the guy there said that I can't splice the AC cord to the 12V cord. I wanted to check with you first before I went ahead and tried it because I don't want to fry my fridge. Obviously I'm cutting off the plug from the AC cord and splicing it to the part of the DC cord that plugs into the lighter. I know to match up the polarization.

Thanks for you help!

I wouldn't want you to fry your fridge either, so don't take my advice. I really don't see
why you could not use the cord to splice into your 12 cord. Pretty sure that it just wire?
Maybe one of the electrical gurus will chime in.

Funny about Radio Shack emplyees giving advice about their products, great training.
I had one tell me the I couldn't use a 110v switch in a 12v application (switch was rated
for 110v and was a micro switch). Yes it will work, it's just a switch.

What was the reason given, not to use it in this way?

Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:17 pm

Timwhy wrote:
I wouldn't want you to fry your fridge either, so don't take my advice. I really don't see
why you could not use the cord to splice into your 12 cord. Pretty sure that it just wire?
Maybe one of the electrical gurus will chime in.

Funny about Radio Shack emplyees giving advice about their products, great training.
I had one tell me the I couldn't use a 110v switch in a 12v application (switch was rated
for 110v and was a micro switch). Yes it will work, it's just a switch.

What was the reason given, not to use it in this way?

He didn't say, he just said you couldn't do it. I think it's just wire though with a plastic plug right? It's the lighter plug part that controls the current (I think). He also didn't know the difference between a polarized plug and not so I'm not really going to take his word for it.

If anyone else wants to chime in I'd appreciate it.

Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:32 pm

I got my info here.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=804952&highlight=polarized#post804952

Second post down on the thread, still think it will work as long as you have your wires
correctly connected.

Fri Mar 11, 2011 4:47 am

I used bulk 12/2 extension cord from Ace, flexible and durable. Any heavier (12) gauge wire will work as long as the polarity is correct.

I always use the non insulated section of crimp pliers for a better grab. It is a little anal (:D) to wrap it with tape but sound advice.

I haven't really kept it outside much, thought I would but it works fine just leaving it inside, it's pretty quiet.

Had mine for almost a year and am impressed with it. So far the most I've used it was 4 days in Utah off of the 4 UB12220 setup without a recharge with no problems.

I used a couple clamps from a popup camper trailer to hold it to the floor, so far so good. Might be some pics in my gallery. Screwed a paper towel holder on the top too, always handy now.

Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:10 am

Maybe a silly question, as it is a steel box, but can you use the Edgestar as a seat? Nothing too heavy, were a pretty light family with my athletic 165lb having the most mass.. :lol:

I've been researching fridges for a while now an never see any mention of using them as seats.
In our weekender we use a cooler (behind the driver) as a seat at the table.

What about the Engle or ARB's?

Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:22 am

Farfrumwork wrote: Maybe a silly question, as it is a steel box, but can you use the Edgestar as a seat? Nothing too heavy, were a pretty light family with my athletic 165lb having the most mass.. :lol:

I've been researching fridges for a while now an never see any mention of using them as seats.
In our weekender we use a cooler (behind the driver) as a seat at the table.

What about the Engle or ARB's?

I will with mine! Oh and I'm 200#s

Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:25 am

Timwhy wrote: Funny about Radio Shack emplyees giving advice about their products, great training.
I had one tell me the I couldn't use a 110v switch in a 12v application (switch was rated
for 110v and was a micro switch). Yes it will work, it's just a switch.

Radio Shack: You've got questions, we've got blank stares.

Tue Mar 15, 2011 12:46 pm

Timwhy wrote: I got my info here.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=804952&highlight=polarized#post804952

Second post down on the thread, still think it will work as long as you have your wires
correctly connected.

I did it and it works great! It was my first soldering experience but I watched a couple of Youtube videos and I think it turned out great. Plugged it in and it all works fine. This will be way better because the only problem with the stock Whynter cord is that it isn't long enough to reach the fridge when it's sitting behind the passenger seat unless it sits backwards. It's hard to get into the fridge this way. Now it will be perfect. Thanks for all your help.

Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:43 pm

Sitting on an engel is just fine.

Thu Mar 17, 2011 4:03 pm

Cool.
Thanks for the input (sitting on top)

seems odd that anyone would design a fridge you couldn't sit on, but you never know.

ICE FREE travel here I come!

Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:47 am

Any fridge running a Danfoss DB35 or DB50 compressor is worth taking a very close look at. Those compressors draw very little power, 2.7amp max I think. The cooling fan is louder than the compressor (but still dead quiet)

Norcold units use a Sauer compressor, odd design but again efficient low current draw. Norcold sells a packaged compressor/chiller/evaporator coil kit that can be retro fitted into an existing fridge, or used with a home made coller box.

I've been running an IsoTherm Cruise 65 slip in fridge as the Dometic replacement for two years. It has DB35 compressor. The Dometic drew 7.5 amps, great battery killer. Isotherm makes a fridge with a kind of gel liner that holds in cold for a long time to minimize compressor run, but the compressor will kick into max cool when it sees enough current available, like from an 80+ watt PV panel, or the engine running. Isotherms are not cheap, but neither is an Engel. You gets what you pays for, nice to have ice for your afternoon drinkies, hic!

I bought a 120watt PV panel, next installation project, in good sun it puts out well over double the current the Isotherm requires, so will work on low sun days and keep everything topped up as well.

Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:05 pm

LittleClau wrote: Timwhy wrote: I got my info here.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=804952&highlight=polarized#post804952

Second post down on the thread, still think it will work as long as you have your wires
correctly connected.

I did it and it works great! It was my first soldering experience but I watched a couple of Youtube videos and I think it turned out great. Plugged it in and it all works fine. This will be way better because the only problem with the stock Whynter cord is that it isn't long enough to reach the fridge when it's sitting behind the passenger seat unless it sits backwards. It's hard to get into the fridge this way. Now it will be perfect. Thanks for all your help. Getting ready to pull the trigger on this one this weekend and have a few last minute questions. This Westy, my 25th :shock: does not yet have the 2nd battery. Anyone run one off the stock battery setup, and if so, how long before you fire up the engine and recharge the battery?

Thanks. Syncro Solstice is coming quick and I must pull the trigger

Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:44 pm

carterzest wrote: Getting ready to pull the trigger on this one this weekend and have a few last minute questions. This Westy, my 25th :shock: does not yet have the 2nd battery. Anyone run one off the stock battery setup, and if so, how long before you fire up the engine and recharge the battery?

Thanks. Syncro Solstice is coming quick and I must pull the trigger

If you read that Expedition Portal thread from front to back there were several people that
were doing just as you are asking. Killed their battery pretty quickly, so I'd suggest an aux
battery big enough to hanle the draw from the fridge and what ever else you will be powering up.

Though it's not summer time temps here, I plan on running my fridge this weekend and see what
it will do to my aux batteries. I'll post my results once they are in.