flybayb |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:28 pm |
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Howdy kidos
haven't posted for a while, but this is too good not to pass it on.
About a year ago my old (stock) generator decided to retire. With an output of anemic 20 AMPS I was looking for better solutions. Making a long research short, I've found one.
A small 1-wire-racing alternator with an output of 60 AMPS. No big conversion hassle, no cooling tin bending. Connects right to the + pole of your battery (or starter solenoid). Even has an outlet for your idiot light for your dash board. Viola -
The only thing you need is a different belt.
Alternator comes with the pully :D
Well, it's running now for about a year in my square (~ 10k miles) and no issues. Clean output at 14.5V. Can have car stereo AND bright lights at night!! (I am running even a 500W amp :wink: )
Due to the slightly higher voltage output your oil pressure gauge will decrease by ~8 PSI and your oil temp gauge will increase by ~10F.
No big deal once you know it.
I've attached a picture (says more than 1000 words).
I've found the alternator for about $150 at a local dealer. It comes with a 12 month warranty. So, if you are interested, I'll hook you up, so drop me a line.
Cheerio
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Levi Harris |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:52 pm |
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Or 55amp for $70 shipped from Kragen. No bending of tins or other hacks. Tad bit of grinding on the alternator and a rivited on shim. Plus it uses the stock pully so adjustments are still possible.
Sorry, had to do it...
So what make and model did that come from? This topic comes up a lot and it would seem everyone is doing something different. |
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marchi |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:29 pm |
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Come on now, make models and where to find them. It's not fair to with hold info :lol: |
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flybayb |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:38 pm |
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Levi Harris wrote: Or 55amp for $70 shipped from Kragen. No bending of tins or other hacks. Tad bit of grinding on the alternator and a rivited on shim. Plus it uses the stock pully so adjustments are still possible.
Sorry, had to do it...
So what make and model did that come from? This topic comes up a lot and it would seem everyone is doing something different.
sooo, you are sorry for WHAT?? :lol: Yours is a type 1 alternator.
Well, no grinding on mine, no rivets ... NADA :wink:
I personally like the 1-wire hook-up (no external voltage regulator). It also has an internal shut down in case of shortage or overheating. It's basically idiot-proof - Ideal for me ... :evil:
I didn't mentioned the make and model? Shame on me ...
It's a GM powermaster racing alternator. |
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Bobnotch |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:29 pm |
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flybayb wrote:
Is that a big hose clamp holding it in place? Just asking, because it kinda looks like one. It's cool that you found something that works though.
So the mounting ears on it weren't a problem? Meaning they cleared everything? If so, do you have a part number? I've got 5 GM dealers within 20 miles of my house. |
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orbittron |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:59 pm |
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I've been contemplating one of these mini alternators for an engine build I have been working on. Looking at the schematic it appears to be the same/or close in diameter to a 12v generator - 98mm. Glad to read someone has had good results.
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flybayb |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:22 pm |
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Bobnotch wrote:
Is that a big hose clamp holding it in place? Just asking, because it kinda looks like one. It's cool that you found something that works though.
So the mounting ears on it weren't a problem? Meaning they cleared everything? If so, do you have a part number? I've got 5 GM dealers within 20 miles of my house.
yup - it's a big ol' hose clamp. :)
The alternator fits snug and nice into the mounting. No problem with the mounting ears. Once the housing is in place and tighten by the clamp, it doesn't move. I also covered the hole for the air vent with a piece of aluminum sheet metal.
Between hose clamp and alternator housing I used pieces of aircraft rubber (used for baffling) to reduce vibration.
On the left side of the alternator you'll see a long screw. That's used as a privet to (a) keep the alternator steady in place and (b) to tense the belt.
The basic alternator is made by powermaster motorsports. It's a racing alternator. They refer to it as the GM racing alternator. Their MRSP is about $250. Here in Cali I found a guy who is converting these alternators into a +60AMP version, heat resistant and sealed with a 12 month warranty. He charges $150 a piece. The unit comes with a pully.
So, whoever is interested should drop me a line. The better the order the better the price? On the other hand it's a small shop and I would love to support them a bit. I think this little unit is a perfect powerhouse for a type3.
cheerio |
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Bobnotch |
Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:28 pm |
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flybayb wrote: Bobnotch wrote:
Is that a big hose clamp holding it in place? Just asking, because it kinda looks like one. It's cool that you found something that works though.
So the mounting ears on it weren't a problem? Meaning they cleared everything? If so, do you have a part number? I've got 5 GM dealers within 20 miles of my house.
yup - it's a big ol' hose clamp. :)
The alternator fits snug and nice into the mounting. No problem with the mounting ears. Once the housing is in place and tighten by the clamp, it doesn't move. I also covered the hole for the air vent with a piece of aluminum sheet metal.
Between hose clamp and alternator housing I used pieces of aircraft rubber (used for baffling) to reduce vibration.
On the left side of the alternator you'll see a long screw. That's used as a privet to (a) keep the alternator steady in place and (b) to tense the belt.
The basic alternator is made by powermaster motorsports. It's a racing alternator. They refer to it as the GM racing alternator. Their MRSP is about $250. Here in Cali I found a guy who is converting these alternators into a +60AMP version, heat resistant and sealed with a 12 month warranty. He charges $150 a piece. The unit comes with a pully.
So, whoever is interested should drop me a line. The better the order the better the price? On the other hand it's a small shop and I would love to support them a bit. I think this little unit is a perfect powerhouse for a type3.
cheerio
I'd be intersted in one, but it would have to wait until later this summer. |
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Chim |
Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:26 pm |
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Do you have a part number? Because there are SEVERAL different GM Powermaster Racing alternators on Summit.com
Not to be mean or anything.. I would just rather order from them in case anything is wrong.. or any other hassles |
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orbittron |
Thu Jun 24, 2010 5:08 pm |
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Here's the part #'s I have for it. :arrow:
CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE 8162
Replaces Part Numbers:
POWERMASTER 8162
OEM(s): Powermaster
Voltage: 12 Volts
Amps: 60 Amps
Regulator Position: 9:00
Polarity: Negative
Output Stud Dimensions: M6-1.0
New or Remanufactured: New
Approximate Weight: 6.93 lbs / 3.15 kg
Notes:
Internally Regulated/Internal Fan, Includes 3 Prong Self Energizing 1 wire Regulator |
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Paul Wilson |
Thu Jun 24, 2010 5:24 pm |
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They are on ebay for $109 and free shipping.
Paul |
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cpkaszak |
Mon Jul 18, 2011 1:13 pm |
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Just got my 71 squareback and has generator issues. I like this conversion. Sooo, what size belt would I need? Anything else like new relays, wiring etc? |
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Mike Fisher |
Mon Jul 18, 2011 2:28 pm |
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Levi Harris wrote: Or 55amp for $70 shipped from Kragen. No bending of tins or other hacks. Tad bit of grinding on the alternator and a rivited on shim. Plus it uses the stock pully so adjustments are still possible.
Sorry, had to do it...
So what make and model did that come from? This topic comes up a lot and it would seem everyone is doing something different.
This Type 1 alternator is the Only one I've liked. |
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Fabinstein |
Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:21 am |
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my generator just took a crap. what is that T1 alternaor?? i would like to pic one up. |
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cpkaszak |
Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:32 am |
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Actually, I don't think it's entirely the generator. The wiring is pretty suspect, a lot of electrical tape. |
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patrickmergner |
Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:37 am |
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question, sorry if it seems like im stealing the thread. im looking to get a audio system running about 300w. would 65A be enough? |
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Fabinstein |
Tue Jul 26, 2011 12:54 pm |
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http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D043%2D903%2D023%2DAC75
is it this??? |
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Bobnotch |
Wed Jul 27, 2011 4:11 am |
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Fabinstein wrote: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D043%2D903%2D023%2DAC75
is it this???
If I remember right, the 75 amp unit (like the link you posted to) has a larger body on it, which requires cutting the tin to make it fit. The 55 amp unit, just requires grinding some metal off the alternator to make it fit. I hope this helps. |
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Fabinstein |
Wed Jul 27, 2011 1:21 pm |
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cool! do i have to change anything else like my voltage regulator? |
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Bobnotch |
Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:20 pm |
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Fabinstein wrote: cool! do i have to change anything else like my voltage regulator?
You'll have to by-pass the VR. I think Dirt posted some pics (or a link) to show what needs to be done. |
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