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Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:28 am

:evil: This thread is riddled with dead photo links~ making an otherwise useful source of information a stumbling, inefficient affair...

Please remember to upload your photos to the Samba Photo Gallery!

:arrow: Photobucket won't host your photos unless you keep the membership active, same with ImageShack. Google+ closed their service, etc.

This is how we do it: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6

Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:18 pm

+1000

It's not that hard to do and it makes your work writing this stuff, as well as doing the work you're sharing, worth it. Fercryinoutloud, I have done it from my phone…

Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:19 pm

Paulbeard wrote: +1000

Fercryinoutloud, I have done it from my phone…

I'm guessing I've uploaded 98% of my 470 photos on my phone. It's easy.

Sun Jun 02, 2019 6:15 pm

A friend was here with new canvas to install today, until I realized how badly the linkage was worn. Not having time or quick access to bushings, I welded up the grooves worn into the tube and ground it down, then filed the tube back to the original surface. On reassembly we used red sticky grease. The plate that causes the wear is harder than the tube, so no real wear in that, the above process worked out fine. Should last at least as well as the original, since the weld is slightly harder.

Tue Nov 12, 2019 12:55 pm

Is it possible to remove the cross bar without pulling the whole mechanism out? Obviously as long as the top is supported in the raised position separately.

Tue Nov 12, 2019 1:09 pm

Why? It's far easier to prop the top up and remove the mechanism. Four bolts each side.

Tue Nov 12, 2019 1:26 pm

Because one bolt each side and no toothed clip on the pins on the bottom would be easier, and I could take it out in the van with the propex running.

Sun Nov 24, 2019 12:51 pm

Super useful thread (apart from broken pictures. Protip go on page 4 and 5 there are valid one)

I don't have access to a welder so I am planning to do the everyman solution and epoxy the crack with an inside sleeve support.

One question I cant figure out is : Can I close the poptop without the mechanism in place. Meaning After releasing the pushbar from the lifter mechanism with the top up and supported with 4x2s. Can I safely close the poptop again? So if the repair takes longer I don't have to worry.

THanks

Koubiak

Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:48 pm

yes you can , and it will seem heavy

Sun Nov 24, 2019 2:03 pm

koubiak wrote:
I don't have access to a welder so I am planning to do the everyman solution and epoxy the crack with an inside sleeve support.

One question I cant figure out is : Can I close the poptop without the mechanism in place. Meaning After releasing the pushbar from the lifter mechanism with the top up and supported with 4x2s. Can I safely close the poptop again? So if the repair takes longer I don't have to worry.

THanks

Koubiak

I'd advise against epoxy unless you like doing things twice. Surely there must be a welder who can fill in the groove?
If you close the top w/o the lift mechanism in place, I'd recommend having another person there to assist, a strong one!

Sun Nov 24, 2019 2:17 pm

I just got a new syncro, well new to me - that has had a pop-top installed on it. It is a bit of a bear to open and close - this thread is helpful - and think shows what some of the problem is.

Thanks to all who posted info and especially the pics - so I can understand it. Hopefully I get a dry day or two - so I can work on this.

If I understand correctly - I can open the top top, prop it up with a 2x4, then remove the bar mechanism for repair. I can close the top manually, and latch - so I can drive around while waiting/searching for a welder to fix this. It will be a real bear to open again afterward, but it is possible. Then when I have the repaired bar - I just need to get someone to help lift the top while I re-install. I am also assuming you don't lift the top all the way when you do this work.

Do I have all that right?

Sun Nov 24, 2019 4:53 pm

Yup..that's the basic idea..but..

If you are thinking of driving the van without the bar I would recommend:

undo the bar from the brackets but leave the brackets attached to the van, then Magiver some bungy setup from bracket to bracket.

I have noticed that in high wind the bar does provide additional clamping to the center pin.

I have added some quick connect straps I position on the bars near the brackets especially when carrying the kayaks on top.

Not at home now but I will add the worth-a-thousand-word pic later.

Tue Nov 26, 2019 7:08 am

you can buy a baering solution in germany:
https://www.werk-4.com/vw-t3-westfalia/
https://www.werk-4.com/referenzen/

here some installations:
http://gruenerbulli.de/aufstelldachmechanik/
https://www.willithebus.de/neue-aufstellmechanik-dach/

i also found an installation video (on youtube ore somewhere) but i didn't have the link already.

---------
don'd know if its also possible with this bearings. perhaps someone tries:
https://www.google.com/search?q=flanschlager&source=lnms&tbm=isch
perhaps with a 3 dimensions ball bearing:
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:AN...oxcr&s
availiable with 2 oder 4 srew holes
https://www.igus.com/info/spherical-bearings-flange-bearing-efsm-ca

----------
i you translate gruenerbullis text you will find out that he does not only have the new bearings. he also got negativ(?) gas springs in the tubes for easier opening/liftung process! (installed by werk4)
i asked him but he doesn have pictures of that and doesn't know whats really inside. you have to ask at werk4 for this special solution, is guess it won't be cheap (and it does have the power of external rear gas springs) but maybe it's worth (original look. it's hidden ins the tubes)

i guess those (negativ) springs here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=gaszugfeder&source=lnms&tbm=isch

Tue Nov 26, 2019 8:30 am

Fantastic!

Is this a drop in bearing system https://www.werk-4.com/vw-t3-westfalia/umr%C3%BCstkit-auf-lagerb%C3%B6cke/#cc-m-product-10189924952 ?

I have not try to read the full thing yet but i am unsure if the bearing fits with the original cross bar but.

Tue Nov 26, 2019 12:01 pm

here the installation video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ixv1z-faks&feature=youtu.be

in the bottom of the product site
https://www.werk-4.com/vw-t3-westfalia/umr%C3%BCstkit-auf-lagerb%C3%B6cke/#cc-m-product-10189924952

you find the installation instruction in german an in english as pdf-file:
https://www.werk-4.com/app/download/10529936952/Assembly_Instructions.pdf?t=1519109443

Tue Nov 26, 2019 7:08 pm

I just watch the video. This is great (I understand german). Interesting how he shows how to do with the roof down which seems very manageable.

I guess I should get a dremel type tool to be sure I can grind the excess as soon as my bus come out of the shop I will start this project.

Vielen Dank

Mon Dec 09, 2019 6:00 am

for those watching the video who don't know german, there is an option in youtube to turn on close captioning, and translate.

It isn't a perfect translation - far from it - but it helps.

Mon Dec 09, 2019 2:00 pm

That bearing kit is a neat idea, but is it noticeably easier to operate than a greased H-bar pivot? Maybe they simply go dry after 30 years and is asking for grease?

Or maybe I don't understand the problem. Does the bearing kit restore a worn out (due to dry) pivot?
OK I looked at the instructions (the english download) and yes the hole wears out, most likely due to lack of grease.

I'd better go inspect (and grease?) mine....
Or more....

kguarnotta wrote: If I understand correctly - I can open the top top, prop it up with a 2x4, then remove the bar mechanism for repair. I can close the top manually, and latch - so I can drive around while waiting/searching for a welder to fix this. It will be a real bear to open again afterward, but it is possible.

The poptop won't be "a bear" to open for this step of the repair process.
Unless you have lots of heavy stuff ontop.
The spring mechanism assists normal opening, but the top is still just a fiberglas shell that two people can easily carry around, flip over etc.

You might consider purchasing the jackbombay gas strut kit, which is a super-nice upgrade anyway. AND pre-installing would make your H-bar project a little easier as it would hold the top up tight against the canvas. https://poptopshocks.blogspot.com

Verify that your poptop latch engages "positively".
Most do.
It's very rare that I hear of the latch releasing on the highway, and I bet its almost 100% operator error. Or maybe a malfunctioning latch. But they are reliable and you can feel it click in with "positive" engagement.

Mon Dec 09, 2019 2:43 pm

My pop-top has had the strut assist installed. It was not originally a pop-top. I just got it a few weeks ago - and the top was kind of a bear to deal with. I was going to take those assists off - as it is super hard to close. But after reading this thread, and looking at the hinge point - I think the issue is the pull up/push up bar looks as though it may be almost sheared through - in any case it is in bad shape.

So I figure I'll try to fix the pushup bar, then decide if I need the assists. I think the PO had the lift assists as he probably carried a lot of stuff on his roof. At this point, I don't think I'll be doing that, so I think those struts (along with bad hinges) make it super difficult to close and kind of difficult to open.

So this repair is on my list...it is a long list, that keeps growing ;)

Mon Dec 09, 2019 3:24 pm

There are several levels of "assist" struts.
You must have the "HD units".
Not sure how that would make it difficult to open, unless you mean you have to hold it back to prevent it from jumping open?

Maybe someone wants to trade normal struts for your HD units?

I hear ya on "the growing list".