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TinCanFab Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:35 am

Here's a good use for a scrounged up broken carb jet- inline vacuum restrictor. I can take it out or change it if needed. This will even out vacuum pulses for the MAP.

TinCanFab Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:05 am

10 micron filter to left side rail-

Here you can see how both carb and injector inlets hook up pretty much the same, depending what I'm running at the moment.

Setting the hoses up to run behind the engine-

TinCanFab Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:34 am

To continue my tradition of making something usefull out of junk, I decided I could make some fuel line clamps out of pieces of aluminum trailer frame in the scrap bin at work. First I welded plates together to come up with a top and bottom piece that was thick enough to sandwich a 5/8" tube.

TinCanFab Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:38 am

Here are some socket cap 10-24 thread stainless screws also pulled from the trash at work. They come in replacement fuel sensor kits and 99% of the time not needed so I started collecting them for projects like this. If you keep your eyes peeled, there's a lot if nice raw materials getting tossed all the time...... Stainless hardware and high grade billet aluminum? I'm no cheap ass, but if I can save $10+ each and spend that on something else, it keeps my budget in check. On a tight monthly budget I may only have $50-$100 extra to spend on my truck when bills pop up.

TinCanFab Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:40 am

Of course, the real benefit of fabbing your own stuff is having exactly what you want to fit custom parts together. This one is 5/8" and 1/2" in one clamp AND extended length between the holes. I'm always preaching the benefits of learning and buying tools that will pay for themselves.

They fit awesome, I just need to give them a more finished look with a sander.

TinCanFab Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:19 pm

All the hard lines are finished, just need to pressure check for leaks. I used the black line clamps to minimize vibration and number of holes drilled in the firewall.

TinCanFab Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:20 pm

Fuel rail to regulator short hose for flexibility.

TinCanFab Mon Nov 16, 2015 3:21 pm

Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. Left port is -10 hex plug, bottom return port is swivel -6 90 degree, right pressure inlet port is -10 to -6 straight.

OTO X58 Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:05 pm

so much awesome in this thread.

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:02 pm

OTO X58 wrote: so much awesome in this thread.

Thanks Thomas, I'll definatly be taking it to Kelly Park and Bugarama when ready. I'm sure you'll get to check it out eventually.

Huetti_1989 Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:08 pm

good ideas here :D

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:15 pm

Here's the fuel gauge I've been running that came with the truck. I've always planned on changing it.

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:18 pm

I needed a gauge that works with the "universal" fuel sender ohm range. You can't go wrong with Autometer. Camera flash makes it look real light, but the color isn't bad with the VW gray.

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:20 pm

Huetti_1989 wrote: good ideas here :D

Feel free to use or improve on anything you see. :wink:

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:25 pm

Walbro high flow EFI pump. I didn't need this high performance of flow, but I figure it will handle any engine combo I throw at it. Turbo in the future maybe? -6 AN fittings are 10mmx1.0 crush washer seal. This is the same fitting a Weber IDF takes.

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:28 pm

Autometer is/was doing a rebate on orders of $100 or more, so I bought the pressure gauge with the fuel level gauge in the cab. I meant to to get one with a male 1/8" NPT and mount it right at the regulator. Like a dumbass, I ordered the one to remote mount. They want you to buy a hose kit, the gauge has a -4 AN male nipple on the back. So, I made a bracket and mounted the round hole bracket to it. A pain in the ass to drill a few holes on the backside of the crossmember. I didn't bother wiring up the gauge light though. If i ever change my mind, I can easily tap into the license plate light wire a few inches away.

TinCanFab Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:37 pm

Here are my MAP vacuum hoses. Teflon with -3 straight and 90 degree ends. I'll have to get the clocking correct before engine install, because getting to the rear hose fittings will be a bitch with the fan shroud in the way.

I CAN'T believe I'm so close to putting the engine in!!
:twisted: :P :D 8)

VeeDubWolf Fri Nov 20, 2015 1:10 am

roachdub58 wrote:

Love that old-style look, and nice work on making parts from discards and scraps! 8)

TinCanFab Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:44 pm

Leak checking everything. So far so good. I had one very slight drip starting at the pump crush washer. I tightened them up a bit more, seems good now.

My biggest concern was leaking at the fuel rail welds. I'll keep pressure on them and keep checking them periodically. I want them leak free before paint.

Regulator adjusts nicely and pump is working great! She holds 40+ psi for two days, then falls to about 25 after another 2 days. It's actually pretty handy with the gauge mounted where it is . I won't have to try and eyeball the pressure from behind the air filter.

I've been cycling the pump on and off, but there's still a lot of gurgling and other noises at the regulator. You can feel the air bubbles as fuel pulses through. I don't have my return line dumping into the top of the tank, so I'm not sure, but I think the air will blow out while the injectors spray.

I changed the spin on filter from a 10 micron to a 140 micron. I forgot to do this before running the pump and glad I remembered now. This pump flows like a garden hose, you can feel it. It's just too hard flowing through a 10 micron filter on both ends.

Old filter- Wix 33091/NAPA 3091
New filter- Wix 33691/NAPA 3691

These fit a 1"-14 thread filter adapter. They are both ag or big truck filters. 3691 comes from ISX Cummins, it is not cheap, it's heavy- found out it has a metal media inside. I got mine for $29 at the local NAPA.

TinCanFab Wed Dec 02, 2015 7:31 am

I hated the shine of manifolds and also strange texture that looks like donut sprinkles. So, I did a quicky polish job and sprayed them with high build primer. My leak checks are done- one injector leaks horribly at a seam in it's body at any pressure. Another leaks at around 50 psi, so I know it will get worse. So I'm going to get a new set and have 2 spares.

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