TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1965 squareback

Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:04 am

NOTICE: i am moving the updates for my thread here because i can edit the title on this thread and I can't on the old one

it all started here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=307504&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I have the square up and running, but now i am trying to set up the carbs.
When I put the snail on the 1-2 side it goes to 20, and the 3-4 side it's at 5. :?
when turning the mixture screws 1-2 is turned out 2.25 turns and the 3-4 side is 1.1/2 turns before it drops off.

So something is off, vacuum leak?
I'm not getting any wonky idle or popping exhaust or carb.

valves are set at .006"

Engine specs
1600cc singleport
dual stock solex
engle 110
minor port and polish
8.6:1 compression
OTT exhaust
SVDA with points

Found a leak in the carb diaphram on the 3-4 side. Turns out Keith didn't tighten the screws on that and it started weeping . But when you hit the throttle, it would squirt straight out the top of the diaphram joint.

Thanks for any insight
Mark

it runs and drives
http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u45/CDNBullyboy/SQUARE/?action=view&current=MVI_1203.mp4

Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:45 am

Slow the one carb down, and speed the other one up.
Do this with the long linkage rods off.
Get the snail to match on the 2 sides at idle.
Then connect the long links, and bring the engine up to 1500-2500 rpm, and hold it.
Check with the snail again. They should still match. If they do not, adjust the long rod of the one that is behind.

Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:26 pm

Okay
I have the look, listen, do it better manual printed off.
probably should have read it before :roll:

thanks
Mark

Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:17 am

well that was easy, the idle screw was turned waaaay in on the 1-2 side.
Don't know what I was thinkin' :roll:

Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:33 pm

W1K1 wrote: well that was easy, the idle screw was turned waaaay in on the 1-2 side.
Don't know what I was thinkin' :roll:

righty tighty, lefty loosey can get screwy if your brain has to reverse the field. it happens!

Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:50 pm

Took the square on a 120 mile trip to Calgary today, and it's running hot.
We stopped a few times to let it cool down. Each time I thought I would try something different to get it running cooler.

Timing was 28 degrees and I tried bumping it to 30 . Also tried to turn the mixture a little richer.
Not sure what to do other than rejecting

Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:00 pm

Damn iPhone
Rejetting
I had the lm2 on it last week and it was 13.5afr
At wot but at cruise it was 14.5afr , not where I want it to be.
I don't trust the oil temp gauge , it was reading 220-240 but the oil light was flickering too at idle
We did measure with the infrared thermometer and mine was reading 20 degrees warmer than a2ltr bus measuring case, heads , sump,etc

Help!?!

Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:18 am

W1K1 wrote: Took the square on a 120 mile trip to Calgary today, and it's running hot.
We stopped a few times to let it cool down. Each time I thought I would try something different to get it running cooler.

Timing was 28 degrees and I tried bumping it to 30 . Also tried to turn the mixture a little richer.
Not sure what to do other than rejecting

28 degrees? What distributor? Are you talking 28- 30 degrees at idle, or full advance?

Sat Jul 31, 2010 6:08 am

SVDA 7.5 at idle, 28 total with the hose off. Tried it at 30 as well.

Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:10 am

W1K1 wrote: SVDA 7.5 at idle, 28 total with the hose off. Tried it at 30 as well.

OK, should have seen that first post. :roll:

First off, a flickering oil light at idle after a high speed run on a hot day is considered "normal", as long as the light goes out and stays out when you bring the RPMs up even slightly. VW actually began putting that info in their owners manuals around 1968-70 or so and issued a supplement sheet for earlier cars.

I think you might need to jet differently because of the aftermarket cam. Try running the timing at TDC or 5BTDC at idle (850 rpm, vac hose disconnected and plugged) and see if this helps things first.

Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:41 pm

Borrowed an lm1 today , changed the timing , didn't change.
Looks like we'll be having a leisurely drive home tomorrow.
We are good driving around town, on and off the gas.
Cruise is bang in the middle of the 14's for AFR.
No wonder the temps keep climbing.

Any suggestions for jetting?

Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:40 pm

Made it home today, did't have to stop.
We lucked out and hit rain, so it stayed around 225f for most of the drive. Didn't push it though, kept it around 3000rpm all the way.

Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:17 am

The LM2 from a week ago showed the AFR at cruise at the end of the graph,
Don't pay any attention to the RPM the LM doesn't like points, I have the computronix in there now.
Some pretty good dips into the 10's there too

If it quits raining I will get out and do some better logging.

What would the Jetting be for stock?
I have sent Keifernet and e-mail to see if he has a record of what's in there to be sure.

I am not familiar with these carbs all of ours are dells except these.
Is there a good parts break down to see where all the jets are or better yet some pics?

Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:27 am

Looks to me like maybe you need to be a little fatter across the board.

http://classicvw.org/gallery2/v/carbs/

Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:31 am

NOTICE: i am moving the updates for my thread here because i can edit the title on this thread and I can't on the old one

it all started here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=307504&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Did some fiddling with the carbs yesterday and took the car for a drive. Feels like I have an intake leak because the idle isn't dropping like it should so i'll look after that today.
While I was changing the main jets on the carbs I had a couple things come up.
The one of the new jets snapped off when I was installing it. lots of cursing later it was out and replaced with another one.
When I received the new jets from CIP I measured them all on the same jet reamer.
the package came with 127, 130, 132, 135, 137, 140.
so It turns out the 132 and 135 were almost the same size, which was lucky because that was the size that snapped off.
The funny thing is I measured the jets I took out which were marked solex 135 and they measured the same as the 140's I received.

So say what you want about ordering the right jets, but if they are not original factory stamped and untouched you better be checking them.
The repop ones are not all the same.

I also installed the oil pressure gauge, Luckily I had the wiring run already and just had to add the sensor on the motor, and swap the pressure gauge in the tach hole.
The gauge reads 25-27psi at high rpm and around 7 for idle when the oil is warmed up to 180-200F so I don't need to worry about that anymore.
Oil pressure is not affecting the engine temps.

So after testing a bit with the LM2 and the new jets, the mains are hanging right around 13-13.5 and of course the idles are still the same.
I will recheck after tightening down the manifolds today.

Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:34 am

Forgot to mention the carbs ended up having originally installed
180 air
g45 idle/pilot
135 main

and no leaks I had a carb return spring that was sloppy and it was messing with the throttle on one side.

Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:39 am

Took the car out on the highway today to monarch (15min) and back.
It's still getting hot at cruise 230F +

as soon as the car is cruising it settles into the 14.5 AFR range and sits there until you step on it.
Jetting on the carbs is
air 180
idle g45
main 135

The other thing that I may try is switching out the relief valve for a slotted one.

any thoughts on these empi repops or should i source a OG T3 one?

Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:32 pm

My service manual says the modified relief valve was added to help with cooling on the dual carb engine so I'll give it a try to see if it makes a difference.

Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:21 pm

I finally finished my rack for the square, just a few bucks worth of EMT, tubing bender, and a mig welder (with an appropriate filter on my respirator for galvanized fumes)
It now has clamps and a new paint job but you get the idea.

I still have to hook up my heat exchanger cables so i can have some forced air heating :lol:
But the heated seats are filling the need for a little warmth in the car these days.
Although I had to shut mine off after driving for 5 minutes this morning and that's on the low setting, I'm not sure how Dorinda can stand having it on high all the time.
I'm kicking myself for not putting them in the beetle now. Sure would make those cool summer nights a whole lot toastier. :wink:

I figured out my non fitting hubcap on my front wheel too, it turns out that if you put the beetle wide 5 disc set-up on it the bearing cap sticks out farther. Then the speedo cable tip stick out too much on the drivers side and the cap won't sit down properly. So i took one of my dented caps and drilled a hole in the center, problem solved.

Sat Sep 18, 2010 9:27 pm

W1K1 wrote: My service manual says the modified relief valve was added to help with cooling on the dual carb engine so I'll give it a try to see if it makes a difference.

Crap, I definitely have the solid relief valve without the groove installed in my 1776 dual carb engine... Am I subjecting my engine to higher oil temps? Should I swap out for a grooved one asap? I live in Los Angeles where the climate is temperate in the winter, but hot in the summer...