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Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:12 pm

but my tank is the original '65 tank. i'm of course going to pull out the strainer, i should be good to go. its not rusted but i figure its a preventative measure.

Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:16 am

I need to start taking pictures but the parts have been arriving, i got a nice stack of boxes in my closest. College started so progress has really slowed down. I am over halfway done with building/testing the megasquirt, my computer is already able to hook up to it and communicate with it. Megasquirt is going to work perfect for this setup.
I had my NOS master cylinder which failed after two pumps rebuilt by jim adney, i got that back. I need to get some silicone DOT 5 fluid then i'll have the brakes all dialed in. In the future if i buy a NOS master cylinder again i'll take it apart and verify there is no rust inside it.

Here's the specs on that Raby cam that i got
Lift .465
duration int-288 ex 298
duration @ .050" int-244 ex-254

she should go pretty good with that cam.

Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:12 am

I will b interested in the megasquirt setup with the stock components. Please post more about all of that. What are you using/not using, etc. My square should be in my garage within the next month and I am debating using a stock 69 engine FI setup or using the 1.7 914 that has been sitting around my garage for years. I have the brain and the bolt on engine FI stuff but nothing else.

Sun Aug 29, 2010 4:06 pm

I got a 2.0L complete bus motor and i'm seriously thinking about getting a 2.0L 914 long block also.
If i run the bus motor i'll use the oem:
fpr
tb/plenum/runners
inj/rails
stock distributor
cylinder head temp sender
411 air duct
72-74 heat exchangers
72-72 bugpack header/quite pack muffler w/ a bung for o2 sensor
411 air filter ducted to fresh air
all the stock type bus tin/shroud
bus voltage regulator
bus FI harness

What i'm replacing with aftermarket is:
ecu-megasquirt
fuel pump-walbro inline
fuel filter-one i got from summit
GM IAT sender
200mm type 4 flywheel
AEM UEGO wideband o2 sensor

if I go with the 914 longblock i'm going to stuff the cam into it and do the following:
3 bolt runners
914 tb w/TPS sender
custom rails
-6an feed lines/-4an return
FIC 625cc high impedance inj

I'm going to try and setup up the cold start to use the stock injectors but if their IDC's are to high i'll have to wire in the cold start valve into megasquirt and set it up to use that. The FIC injectors will be needed with the cam and the bigger valves on the 914 engine since it breathes a whole lot better. Either setup megasquirt is only controlling the fueling, I would love to do a ford EDIS setup with individual coil packs, those setups are pretty cheap, but i haven't figured out a clean way to install the VR sensor/36-1 crank position wheel yet. I would then need to get a megasquirt II daughter board to control the EDIS.

I also want to get the 4bar map sensor/baro sensor upgrade for megasquirt so it can compensate for elevation changes on the fly, that will come in real handy for the next invasion.

edit: I got the Megasquirt I v.3.0 unassembled kit for $197
12' preassembled wire harness for $65 (so guys like mike fisher won't call this install a "hack", lolololol friggin tools.
IAT w/ pigtails was $17
I'm not using the stock air meter since i'll be using a speed density algirthim and MS has a built in 2.5bar MAP sensor.

I hope this helps bob, for your set up it would probably be a whole lot easier to find a bus 1.7 or 914 1.7 wire harness and use a wire diagram to wire it in. you'll just have to source all the missing bits, but it should run good right off the bat, or just get some IDF's and shorten some type 4 mani's and be on your way. I'm just trying to be different and i prefer FI over carbs.

Sun Aug 29, 2010 6:17 pm

Thanks Supa, I appreciate the response.

Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:25 pm

supaninja wrote:
If i run the bus motor i'll use the oem:

411 air filter ducted to fresh air

if I go with the 914 longblock i'm going to stuff the cam into it and do the following:
3 bolt runners
914 tb w/TPS sender
custom rails
-6an feed lines/-4an return
FIC 625cc high impedance inj

I hope this helps bob, for your set up it would probably be a whole lot easier to find a bus 1.7 or 914 1.7 wire harness and use a wire diagram to wire it in. you'll just have to source all the missing bits, but it should run good right off the bat, or just get some IDF's and shorten some type 4 mani's and be on your way. I'm just trying to be different and i prefer FI over carbs.

Good luck getting the t-4 air cleaner to work. I know, I've got one here, and there's no room for it to fit under the load floor. The bus tin is hit and miss on whether all of it fits, as some pieces might need to be changed out. I know I've still got an extra set of pulley tins that fit the t-3 engine bay. Use standard t-4 tins or the bus upper tins and front tin, combined with some other bits and pieces. You might have to relocate the throttle cable inlet, or work out the change of the throttle linkage.

I have to agree finding the 1.7/1.8 FI stuff will be easier. You have to go with some sort of K&N filter due to the stock unit not fitting under the load floor, but otherwise the rest will go in nicely. For the wiring harness, you just need a good 71 or 72-73 T-3 harness, and then you hunt for the other stuff to run D-jet (and use the stickies at the top of this forum) as it's out there, or just build your own harness for the mega squirt. What I did was hunt down all the t-4 D-jet stuff to do my t-4 conversion. Mines set up like a 71 system though.

Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:25 pm

Thanks Bob, now i don't have to source a type 4 air cleaner, back to my original plan of some 2.5" aluminum piping and a universal air filter.

here's what a bus header and muffler looks like, don't worry it will be sanded and painted.

I still need bus heat exchanger pipes, I don't know why those bay window guys think their stuff is friggin made of gold, infact I don't know why split window's are so damn expensive either.

here is what megasquirt looks like if you get it unassembled-

after about 8hrs of soldering-

and fully assembled-

Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:08 pm

Scratch the 411 air duct off the list of stuff I got, turns out the guy bought it from probably sold it to another buyer and gave me the run around for the last 2 weeks, he still hasn't even sent me my money back. HERRELL-BUG-PARTS is his screen name on here.

thats a huge set back for the motor install.

Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:13 pm

Always check the feedback threads. This Herrell bug parts guy has a bad rep

Wed Sep 08, 2010 3:52 am

I talked to herrell on the phone yesterday, he did send me the refund but it has to clear. Seems like a good guy on the phone and still wants to make it right.

but enough of that, the type 4 motor has been delivered, so its going to be install time. I got to wire up the management and the wideband. I also bought a set of 72-74 bus heat exchangers that need to be "modified" to become j-pipes. they should eb the last parts i need to get her running. I still need to find a air duct or make one so I can drive it without overheating but to get it running I got everything i need. The total cost is about $1500 so i'm still on budget.

Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:40 am

Heat exchangers modified to become j-pipes sounds as if you're eliminating your Heater/Defroster as one of your Custom touches? You're losing some of your cooling capacity doing that. I needed/used my heater/defroster all day yesterday and you have a Hurricane coming through Texas today! It's a little more trouble, but well worth it when your wife says "I'm Cold!" :)

Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:08 am

On type 4 motors the actual heat exchanger is part of the exhaust mani. I'm using a header and the stock exhaust won't fit under the apron. I don't need a heater here anyways. I'll take some pics of the modification I have to make. I have never been a fan of heater boxes and have always removed them to run better exhausts.

Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:31 pm

supaninja wrote: Scratch the 411 air duct off the list of stuff I got, turns out the guy bought it from probably sold it to another buyer and gave me the run around for the last 2 weeks, he still hasn't even sent me my money back. HERRELL-BUG-PARTS is his screen name on here.

thats a huge set back for the motor install.

I take it you didn't print out Nates template for modifying a t-3 shroud into a t-4 part that uses the readily available t-3 bellows? You know it can be found in the type4um on Shop Talk Forums, right? You have to have a back up plan for dealing with NLA parts. :roll:

Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:53 pm

When going for an engine conversion did you go for the T4 to stay air cooled? with all the mega squirt stuff a subaru would have been an option of similar complication bar the radiator.

Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:35 am

bob- ya I already have the template printed up, thats my fall back plan. I have a local shop thats amazing at metal fabbing. Also there is a guy in SA that makes a fiberglass version of the duct.

krusher- the thought crossed my mind and those suby motors are amazing but I got jaded after i saw a lot of hacked installs, don't get me wrong there are a few clean installs. I want to stay aircooled and not mess with a radiator. The megasquirt wasn't expensive or complicated but having total control of the fueling is going to be win. I need to search the internet and find the latency times for the injectors, if i get that right it will run tits. if i don't it will run like doo-doo.

ninja edit- so i just got off the phone with a guy that has a shop in my hometown, I'll know tomorrow if he has a air duct and i might score a set of porsche 2L 3 bolt heads too.

Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:33 am

supaninja wrote: bob- ya I already have the template printed up, thats my fall back plan. I have a local shop thats amazing at metal fabbing. Also there is a guy in SA that makes a fiberglass version of the duct.

krusher- the thought crossed my mind and those suby motors are amazing but I got jaded after i saw a lot of hacked installs, don't get me wrong there are a few clean installs. I want to stay aircooled and not mess with a radiator. The megasquirt wasn't expensive or complicated but having total control of the fueling is going to be win. I need to search the internet and find the latency times for the injectors, if i get that right it will run tits. if i don't it will run like doo-doo.

ninja edit- so i just got off the phone with a guy that has a shop in my hometown, I'll know tomorrow if he has a air duct and i might score a set of porsche 2L 3 bolt heads too.

are you going to control timing with the MS too? You won't need to worry toooo much about syncing the injectors with the timing and valves opening if you have sparking/timing control built in... I know MS only needs a trigger wheel sensor and a few relay board mods to make that work...

Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:54 am

I am going to go megasquirt and a subaru.

The megasquirt stuff adds up fast.

I think i will be in $700/$800 for it all :?

Did you get a stimulator to test your build,i may be interesting in buying it from you if your done with it.

Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:59 am

krusher wrote: I am going to go megasquirt and a subaru.

The megasquirt stuff adds up fast.

I think i will be in $700/$800 for it all :?

Did you get a stimulator to test your build,i may be interesting in buying it from you if your done with it.

Granted, i priced mine out for a T3 engine not a subaru, but I ended up at HALF where you are, all in, with the stimulator and a wideband A/F meter. :?

I can't really see where you're getting all these costs from, the subaru motor already comes with all the hardware you need... you just need to supply the ECU relays wiring harness and some time on the laptop...

Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:47 am

My MS1 with a iat, wire harness, usb to serial adapter, and walbro came to 447 shipped. I would like to down the road upgrade to a crank trigger and coil-less ignition controlled by MS but for now the stock ignition system will work just fine. You can a complete used ford EDIS setup off ebay for $75 but the trick pony is setting up the trigger wheel and VR sensor on/in the fan. If it was a upright setup or water cooled application that wouldn't be a problem but a type3/4 setup will be a little more involved because of the shroud/fan.
Injector latency time is critical, every injector has different times. thats also dependant on fuel pressure and voltage. If the latency time(aka dead time) isn't correct there will be cold start issues, tip-in issues, and driveablity issues from erratic fueling.
I already have a wideband from a previous build so thats saving me 2 bills and it will make street tuning it a walk in the park.

I opted not to use the stimulator since I used to be a electronics tech and was able to test most of the functions without hooking up to the car. I am confident that if there are assembly issues I can sort them out. I am looking at getting a 914 1.7L TB for the TPS, that will help with tip in fueling and make just a little bit more responsive even though VW didn't use a TPS on their earlier bus setups and a very primative one on their vanagons.

For my initial setup its just a bare bones system. Stock bus FI with fuel control from MS, a walbro fuel pump, a FI fuel filter, a bug welded to the fuel tank for the fuel return. The type install is straight forward too, 72-74 bus exhaust w/ a header, 200mm type 4 flywheel, and a 411 air duct. This isn't too crazy...yet. I have a jake raby cam/solid lifters, i want some 914 2L heads, ignition control of some sort, knock sensor, dedicated barametric pressure sensor, maybe a A-1 sidewinder bus exhaust system.

Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:57 am

been a while since I've haunted STF but round about a year ago there was a guy selling trigger wheels for the T4 engine, all bolt on. That's really the hardest part... mounting the sensor is just a matter of welding a tab on your bellows adapter...