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It's a play thing Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:31 pm

POR-15 worked great on our pan. Just make sure you follow the instructions, including the prep.

sjhotz Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:50 pm

That's beautiful! Ya, I have the POR 15 & Marine Clean, just waiting on better weather to do the pans.

sjhotz Sat Dec 15, 2012 7:05 pm

Bashr52 wrote: Bashr52 wrote: Skip the progressive, id opt for a set of duals if you can swing it.

As per my previous comment, dump the progressive. You will be happier in the long run with the ease of working with them, better mileage, and the extra power. All the time it will take to get the progressive setup properly will be more of a headache than its worth.

So I have a pair of 40's as I said, and just got some proper manifolds (with vacuum port), I still need a linkage ( the original was bastardized for a type IV, thinking about a Synclink) and possibly re-jetting? They were originally jetted for a 2L Type IV.

saddlesore1 Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:05 pm

POR15 and marine clean is the way to go. Make sure you wear gloves and protect what is under the car from dripping. You will wear the POR15 for a month or so and what ever drips expect your grand kids to see it.
I run a single 44. I have a dual 40's on my 356 and it is easy to adjust but I do find that if one jet get clogged it is way easier to find and fix on my Thing with a single 44 then with the dual 40's on the 356. As for power. I cannot tell the difference. It is all about the Chokes and jets that make them run the same.
Good luck. It looks like a great so far.

sjhotz Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:55 pm

Question gang, took the Thing to Havasu "Buses By The Bridge" last weekend (bus engine hasn't arrived yet so I had to get there somehow), noticed that if I tried to above 60 - 65 or if I was forced to climb a long hill the oil temp's would start to climb over 220, city driving usually results in the 180 range. I recently purchased a laser thermometer (no idea how accurate they are), and both the gauge and the thermometer agreed each time. Using same gauge head temps at base (near spark plugs) was from 180 to 240 depending on ambient temps & long acceleration. I'm running the stock oil cooler and have been considering pulling the engine and adding a berg full flow filter and remote oil cooler, my concern is am I just slapping a band aid on a bigger issue, or is 240 no biggie?

sjhotz Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:20 pm

Think i'm gonna swap the General Grabber AT2's to my bus and get some smaller diameter tires that match stock, see how that affects temps before I start messing with oil coolers and such. Now to find stock diameter with decent tread... grrr!

sjhotz Tue Jun 06, 2017 9:28 pm

Got her back on the road this week and ran into a small problem... no brake lights DOH!

I added a Pertronix, new plugs, new resistance plug wires, restored a Optima Blue Top and replaced the dead leisure battery with it. Chased down 3 exhaust leaks and decided to re-gasket the whole muffler (beetle exhaust, hope to upgrade to a better one soon) Fixed Stereo & re-routed speaker wires (sounds amazing again and I can hear it over the now quieter exhaust!).

So I was cruising around town really enjoying myself when a kind fellow driver pulled up next to me, complimented the "Thing" then advised me i had no brake lights.

I checked all fuses, all show power at top and bottom of box except for the 3rd and 4th (left to right facing fusebox), replaced the 2 suspect fuses,no change. Had my roommate stand on the brake with the engine running while i tested all three tabs on each brake switch with a test light, no power at all to switches it seems.

I'm stumped, shouldn't at least 1 tab on the brake switches show incoming power from the fuse box even if they are defective?

5 Hours later after a good meal and some rest...

OK! I'm officially an idiot! How are any of the 3 tabs gonna have power if the plug is pulled off, derp! Man I must be going senile! Re-tested each socket and one spot per socket is getting power when brake pedal is pushed down so hopefully it's just switches, cheap and easy!


Update! Yup switches! Brake lights working again!

Today I assembled a general preparedness kit for daily driving... tool kit (in ammo box), 2 quarts of oil, 2 cans fix a flat, pry bar, tow strap, spare properly mounted in trunk, few other things all locked in trunk for safety. Doing rear shocks tomorrow AM!

sjhotz Tue Jun 13, 2017 10:14 pm

Skipped new shocks. All I have are extra GR2's, gotta sell them all and buy some Koni's.

Installed a MGL Avionics Stratomaster Maxi Single E1 (Universal Engine Monitor) that was unused from my Bus engine swap. Got RPM, Oil Temp, and Oil Pressure all working, thinking about adding CHT but don't know if I want the added worry (heh). Relocated Radio to glove so no more banged knees too! Progress continues!

911pickup Wed Jun 14, 2017 5:46 am

I had Konis on my Porsche 356 replica and loved them, but they are pricey little suckers.

sjhotz Thu Jun 15, 2017 3:30 am

Speaking of Porsche 356... I'm working out some hot oil temp issues and am looking at 2 things. The Porsche pulley for my alternator, and a full flow oil cooler & filter setup.

I've admired mond's setup for some time now and have noticed his configuration and locations for both filter and cooler have changed over the years.

Hey Mond, knowing what you know now, would you have any beginner's advice for me?

My plan to date is to use a Maxi 3 pump along with a Canton/Mecca filter. Mounting both filter and a cooler somehow at the driver side air filter mount. I plan on following mond's setup (all accept the pre oiler).

Since my engine is assembled and in the Thing, what is the best way to get oil back to the case?

My Thanks to any and all that have advice/insight!

sjhotz Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:57 pm

Just spoke to a VW mechanic friend of mine, very well versed in Things (he used to race them cross country!).

He suggests refreshing engine seal foam (definitely needs replacing) and adding a later doghouse cooler with the 2 more fins) and appropriate tin instead of adding the remote filer/cooler setup. And if I insist on remote filter/cooler then I MUST tap the case, not use the CB or Maxi pumps due to cavitation and oil gallery size issues.

Your thoughts gentlemen?

Bashr52 Fri Jun 16, 2017 7:54 am

Your 74 has the later doghouse style cooler already. Are you talking about a type 4 cooler? Those are bigger still.

sjhotz Fri Jun 16, 2017 11:33 pm

Yes that is correct, my apologies on the confusion, a type 4 cooler.

sjhotz Sat Jun 17, 2017 9:18 pm

Is it possible to replace the Engine Compartment Seal with the engine installed?

While making sure none of my heat issues are seal related, I discovered my seal appears great from above but was rock hard and decayed underneath, so new seals are now in hand and I plan on installing tomorrow AM.


P.S I got the replacement Soft Top! I'll post pics soon.

deafen Sun Jun 18, 2017 5:41 am

Replacing with the original firm rubber, from what I'm told, is not impossible with the engine in, but difficult.

I took the easy way out and used a late type 2 foam seal, which is easily stuffed into the gap. Have had no issues with it in the two years since, and it took about 15 minutes (and I took my time!)

911pickup Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:23 am

I recently replaced the engine seal rubber gasket when the engine was out.
I would NOT want to do this job with the engine in place. It was difficult enough with the engine out.
The old rubber seal looked like it had been in the car for a long time (original?) and I had to use a big screw driver to scrape it out of the channel.

I would definitely recommend that you use the late type 2 foam seal for a MUCH easier install.

sjhotz Mon Jun 19, 2017 5:58 pm

Welp, since I need to drop the engine to easily install the new compartment seal (my old seal is hard as a rock and will need serious scraping) I've decided to complete a few more things. I'm getting rid of the Weber progressive and switching to dual Kadron 40's, adding a Porsche 356 Gen Pulley and a welded fan along with a Type 4 cooler and widened tin, suggestions on quality sources for said tin are welcome.

Working of my replacement soft top, the vinyl has a few rips but nothing serious, getting it repaired this week. Any suggestions on good Vinyl restorer/treatment?

The frame is bowed up and in on both sides at the front above the driver and passenger doors, it is more pronounced on the passenger side especially when the side curtains are in place. Considering straightening techniques and also accepting suggestions.

Finally I am pulling the trigger on a Vintage Speed Exhaust after hearing one run. Wow! One of my local mechanics just became a distributor for them and met the owner. That guy has a nice stable of VW's he uses to test out his designs. Very well thought out and very clean welds. As you can see I'm sold!

I'll post some pics tomorrow evening after work.


kenj06 Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:01 pm

Quote: The frame is bowed up and in on both sides at the front above the driver and passenger doors, it is more pronounced on the passenger side especially when the side curtains are in place. Considering straightening techniques and also accepting suggestions.

My top was bowed also. I pulled my top off over the winter, drilled out the rivets, straightened the arms with a cheap Harbor Freight press, welded up the cracks in the front bow with a cheap Harbor Freight welder, cleaned up the parts and painted flat black, installed new rivets from Killer Products (see this thread, reinstalled the canvas with new rivets up front from The Thing Shop and I'm happy with the results. Looks much better though not perfect but I think that is because the windows don't fit perfect either. The windows now meet the top and should I ever be caught in the rain it won't leak nearly as much as it would have before.
I spent a day with the press, figuring out where to bend each piece back into shape, marking the spots with chalk for reference on where to apply the pressure. I used clamps, sockets, scrap wood and whatever else I could find in the garage to hold the pieces in the correct position to apply pressure in the right spots. Thought about reinforcing it with angle iron but I'll see how it holds up first before I go that route. The top stays down all summer unless I get caught in the rain. It's only up in the spring and fall when it's too chilly at night. I wasn't sure about tackling it but with the price of a new frame it was worth investing in a few tools that I'll use elsewhere. Had to weld one of the pivot brackets for the top back on also. A little patience and trial and error and you can come out looking pretty good. Not 'show quality' but then mine is a driver, not a show Thing. Good luck!

sjhotz Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:26 am

Thanks kenj06,

I have access to all you mentioned and was thinking along the same lines. I too am considering angle iron for reinforcement.

sjhotz Sun Jun 25, 2017 11:36 pm

Managed to dissemble both frames today and do some mix and match, it appears with some juggling I can piece together a very nice frame with a minimal amount of bending necessary! I will report back as soon as I have access to my Dad's Press again, unfortunately that won't be until next Saturday and of course this week it will be in the high 90's! Breaking out that sunscreen! 8)

Rivets from Killer ordered for Frame mix and match. Canvas has been patched, she aint gorgeous but she'll keep me dry if needed!

It took the Carbs 3 sessions in heated dip to get the varnish out, they should be ready soon.

Ordering the 356 Pulley, Type IV cooler, Shroud, Vinyl Rivets, and Vintage Speed Exhaust soon.

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