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  View original topic: AAZ Water Pump Replacement in '87 Syncro
Orbitald Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:12 am

I'm just beginning to replace the water pump on my AAZ TD with the serpentine belt setup and already run into a problem and I'm looking for some help. (I moved a short time ago and cant find my jetta bently)

I removed the larger plastic timing cover and there is a smaller plastic cover which covers a portion of the water pump. I've removed the two 9mm headed screws but it also seems that this cover is behind the main crank pulley.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

David R.

syncroserge Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:32 am

There are 3, 10mm head ( M6 ) bolts holding the lower plastic t-belt guard.
The one on the right in the picture is a nut, the bolt has a funny T shaped
head and comes from the back through an eye in the water pump.

crazyvwvanman Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:43 am

It is sometimes easier to remove the entire pump and housing as a unit. That way it comes out from the side of the engine, rather than the end. Then take the pump out of the housing. You may need a new o-ring for between the housing and the block.

Mark

Orbitald wrote: I'm just beginning to replace the water pump on my AAZ TD with the serpentine belt setup and already run into a problem and I'm looking for some help. (I moved a short time ago and cant find my jetta bently)

I removed the larger plastic timing cover and there is a smaller plastic cover which covers a portion of the water pump. I've removed the two 9mm headed screws but it also seems that this cover is behind the main crank pulley.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

David R.

Zeitgeist 13 Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:51 am

x2 on a complete removal of the pump/housing. I like to fully remove the old gasket material and file the housing/pump mating surface so that it's fully flush.

Orbitald Mon Oct 04, 2010 12:26 pm

And does anything change if I have the serpentine belt setup?

Thanks a bunch!

David R.

syncroserge Mon Oct 04, 2010 12:40 pm

If you remove the whole pump from the side then you'll have to remove
the alternator and its bracket. As mentioned, a new o-ring and cleaning
the o-ring sealing surface on the block is recommended.

If you remove only the face of the pump, the 3 bolts behind the intermediate
shaft pulley are not easy to get to.

Orbitald Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:15 pm

Thanks for the help. I wanted to check to see if my water pump had a plastic impeller which might have been the source of my slight over heating problem. Turns out the one I pulled off had a metal impeller so it was not the problem after all. I went ahead and replaced it from the side removing the whole water pump assembly.

Here are some photos that will perhaps help someone else:

Here is above with everything attached:


Here I removed the alternator and AC Compressor. Also a good time to remove the top nut-bolt out of the lower plastic shield.


Here is the serpentine belt bracket:


Here the serpentine bracket is off and there are three stand -off studs and one hex head screw to remove to take off the water pump assembly. Note it looks as though I had a slight leak as there is a small amount of coolant shown and this is before I had loosened any hoses.


Three stand-off studs and the hex head screw:


The water pump assembly from the top:


The water pump assembly from the bottom:


Water pump assembly removed:


The o-ring should be replace and all surfaces should be freshened up.


My new gasket (on right) was slightly different than the original:

Orbitald Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:29 pm

Final Question (I hope); how do I drain the rest of the coolant from the engine? There seems to be some left in the block and I want to switch antifreeze.

?Waldo? Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:41 pm

There is no easy way that I'm aware of. I have been planning to, but haven't yet added a drain plug in the back of the block.

MKIII and Sons Tue Oct 05, 2010 5:03 pm

via your local harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/fluid-siphon-pump-93290.html



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