TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:21 pm

Just another thread of my experiences and learnings...I invite others to add and comment.

After I bought and summarily rejected a crappy EMPI dash pad for my '66 Ghia, I got looking at the old one and had a few ideas.

When I started, the vinyl was all cracked, and the sub structure was even crumbling in the area of the speaker.

I cleaned off all of the vinyl, as well as the thin sponge layer beneath.

Then I did a fibreglass repair on the speaker area - I used mat and liquid resin fiberglass.

To recreate the speaker holes, I held it up to a light, then marked each hole with a Sharpie. I then took it to the drill press and drilled out all the holes.

I used a product called "4 way stretch vinyl" to recover it. I picked it up at an automotive upholstery shop. It is stretchy, and I contact cemented in on in sections, working on about 6 inches at a time. This way I was able to tension each part and get it good and tight and smooth.

It took about 10 sessions over the course of an afternoon. Going slowly and planning which direction to pull, I was able to get it tight, even in the A pillar area.

Once that was done, I opened the vents and wrapped the vinyl around them to the inside.

I chickened out on punching out the speaker holes...My leather punches are tapered, and I was scared of doing damage to the fiberglass. If I had straight cylindrical ones, I might have tried.

As it turns out, I can hear the original a.m. radio just fine. Of course, it fit perfectly.

What I learned: take your time, obviously. Also, the vinyl will show every defect from below - I would have taken the time to better hide everything with more judicious use of fiberglass. For example, the points that the studs for bolting the pad down are detectable.

Also, if your car has been repainted, take a moment and restore the black to the windshield edge and inside the defrost vents. Otherwise, the colour will show up against the window and inside the slots. I'm making this change on my '69, currently in progress.

Cheers all,

M.

Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:02 pm

What a great posting! I've been thinking of the pros and cons of doing something similar but have been worried about the need to have the surfaces very smooth. I have studs to fiberglass in and have absolutely no experience with fiberglasss. Your post gives me encoragement.

Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:11 am

Excellent information!

I'm coming up on doing this and have been wondering. I've read a lot of horror stories of the replacement dash pads and how bad they are.

I would think that this would also be superior to use on the dash face of newer Ghia's as well. That self stick stuff really doesn't withstand the test of time.

Here is a link for the fabric if you can't get it locally. Price is fair!!

http://www.yourautotrim.com/al4stvi.html

Dave

Tue Nov 09, 2010 4:17 pm

I did a similar job on a late dash '69. I put a layer of 1/8" foam on first, glued to the top. DO NOT ROLL IT OVER THE EDGE, cut it flush with all edges and vent cut outs. Then I put the vinyl over the top. Use good contact adhesive in a can or a tube, not the spray stuff (it is not strong enough) In the tricky spots, super glue gel is also very useful.
If you roll the foam over the edge, the dash becomes to thick and the vinyl doesn't stick properly..... then you have to do it all again. But I learnt! I have done a rear parcel shelf the same way.
Ian G

Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:38 pm

Very nice and useful post thank you. And the dash of your 66 looks awesome!

Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:41 pm

Good point from Ian, thanks for adding to the thread. If I had to do it again, I'd use some foam too. Perhaps you could mention where you got the 1/8" material.

Glad you like the dash exciter - the '66 is probably my favourite of all years of Ghia.

Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:36 am

Ian Godfrey wrote: I did a similar job on a late dash '69. I put a layer of 1/8" foam on first, glued to the top. DO NOT ROLL IT OVER THE EDGE, cut it flush with all edges and vent cut outs. Then I put the vinyl over the top. Use good contact adhesive in a can or a tube, not the spray stuff (it is not strong enough) In the tricky spots, super glue gel is also very useful.
If you roll the foam over the edge, the dash becomes to thick and the vinyl doesn't stick properly..... then you have to do it all again. But I learnt! I have done a rear parcel shelf the same way.
Ian G

Outstanding original post and follow-up. I'll be taking this on for the dash pad and rear parcel shelf as soon as the vinyl and neoprene padding arrive, which I wish there was a local source for so I could get at it today.

Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:49 pm

I re-did the dash top in my '67 in much the same way. The speaker perforations in mine were mangled beyond repair, so I decided to use a speaker grill like the ones found in earlier cars. I fiberglassed the area over, and after making a sheetmetal template of the right shape & size, opened the hole with a fluted cutter on a Dremel. The speaker grill is a bit smaller than the pattern of holes, so I made sure that I filled all the holes around the edge of the pattern completely with resin. I also added the older-style vent trims to clean up the edges of the defroster openings. I found that sanding down the fiberglass before applying the vinyl helped keep it looking smooth (I didn't use the 1/8" foam).
Those are good tips about using the foam, opening up the holes for the studs and applying the flat black paint around the vents and below the windshield.

Good job!

Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:27 pm

The padded dash on my 70 Ghia is in terrible shape. I got sticker price shock when I looked at a replacement padded dash. I think I will give this a try and do it myself. Great thread, thanks.

Sat Jan 11, 2014 8:19 pm

Ciderguy
You might also want to take a look at Greg Porters' youtube video on this

Sun Jan 12, 2014 2:19 am

Rogb wrote: Ciderguy
You might also want to take a look at Greg Porters' youtube video on this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QcxmFGZoJQ

Thanks for the link. It is the middle of the night and I've watched most of his videos.

Not so sure about using a foam product that a thumb or strong finger pressure, could leave a permanent mark in. I think it may be better to use the foam to get the final shape of the dash, and then cover everything with epoxy resin or fiberglass before covering it with vinyl. Any thoughts on that idea? Thanks.

Sat Sep 05, 2015 2:10 pm

I had been looking for a replacement dash for my 1967 coupe but couldn't find one. Then I came across your post and decided to give repairing mine a try. The speaker had rotted out and the two post that bolt in had come out so I had a lot of fiberglass work to do. I hadn't ever worked with fiberglass so I was a little hesitant.

I have patched the speaker opening and the fiberglass is hardening. I will post pictures after I am done.

Thanks again for the inspiration.

Mon Sep 26, 2016 5:59 pm

I replaced my dash a year ago and followed the steps listed in this forum. Over a hot summer the glue gave way and the the vinyl is starting to retract. I need to find a staple that is very short and re-glue and staple the edges. Does anyone have any suggestions on a stapling option and a glue that holds up in extreme heat?

Thanks,
Brad

Sat Mar 24, 2018 5:46 am

Too bad the OP used PhotoBucket!!!!

Anyway..... THIS is THE contact cement to use in high temperature applications such as a dash recover........
It is hard to come by, it is used in the airline industry.

My saga of VW dash repair........

I plan to do likewise with my 69 Ghia dash.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6965377#6965377

I plan to do likewise with my 69 Ghia dash.

Dave

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:25 am

Thanks djkeev for contacting me. I was actually able to find my original photos pretty fast. Attempting to recreate my post from 8 years ago here:

First was removal of original cover and (disintegrated) sponge underneath. There was rot in the speaker area that I patched with fiberglass

The speaker holes were marked by holding the piece up to a light. I then drilled out each spot with a regular drill.

Underside view after fiberglass work.

3-way stretch vinyl applied in sections with contact cement. I, too later had this fail and will eventually redo with something stronger. But the technique is valid.

Relief cuts made prior to wrapping it around the backside.

Top completed.

Detail of A-pillar corner. It tool lots of little overlaps and careful sequencing to avoid a wrinkle.

Vents opened.

Installed. I chickened out on punching speaker holes and have no regrets. The a.m. sound comes through fine.

Cheers,

M.