TheSamba.com :: View topic - how to :strap and key axle boot retainers

Mon Dec 06, 2010 5:30 pm

I need help on the proper way to install this type of strap on 1 piece axle boots? not sure how to thread the end of the strap and how much slack to leave before tightening? any one care to school me?

Mon Dec 06, 2010 5:43 pm

Nice to see Stoddard carrying these, I made a few sets from scratch years ago, used hand trimmed sheet metal for the strip and some used cotter pins from rotten old straps, heres a pic. that kind of explains it, its very counter intuitive, the strap makes two complete turns of the boot before it goes into the cotter pin, hope this explains it:

in hindsight it really requires multiple angles and explanations to picture it correctly, basically you first loop the strap around the boot and then bend the strap into and under the twister thru the hole opposite the cotter pin, then you make another full rotation thru the open end of the twister before feeding the loose end between the cotter pin legs, at this point it should start to look like the above drawing (missing the cotter pin frame thing) then you take up most of the slack before twisting the cotter pin, if you leave too much slack the cotter pin will become too large with strap and get jammed up, you have to have just the right amount of slack, you have to make the two rotations and feed thru the cotter pin to get it to tighten up and hold correctly, just one rotation does not work and it will loosen back up, I always keep an original factory wound strap around so I remember to look at it before attempting this trick

Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:14 pm

Here you go:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=408461&highlight=axle+boot

Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:53 pm

you guys are awesome! thank you!

after you posted that pic i remembered the same style of clamp was used on the metal heater box to body tube and I have one attached to a parcel tray clip i bought awhile back. i removed it and took a look at it, after carefully unwinding its rusty glory i noticed that it looks like the strap was worked to get all the slack out of the 2 wrappings and then given back about 1 inch of strap slack, leaving the end cut of the strap flush at the cotter pin and then rolled tight, i did notice too when removing the clamp that the pin frame seems to snap down against the tube and tension lock it in a way. so im wondering if you are wrapping the strap in a clock wise direction 2 times, then the frame is face bottom to end counterclockwise and the pin is rotated clockwise until the frame lifts up and snaps down facing clockwise.

is it best to install this by twisting the pin with a small flat head screwdriver, pair of pliers, or is there a purpose designed tool (which im assuming hard to find since these straps are archaic technology)?

interesting design

Mon Dec 06, 2010 7:04 pm

3foldfolly wrote: Here you go:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=408461&highlight=axle+boot

this link helped great to thanks!

Mon Dec 06, 2010 7:05 pm

billmetric wrote: Nice to see Stoddard carrying these, I made a few sets from scratch years ago, used hand trimmed sheet metal for the strip and some used cotter pins from rotten old straps, heres a pic. that kind of explains it, its very counter intuitive, the strap makes two complete turns of the boot before it goes into the cotter pin, hope this explains it:

in hindsight it really requires multiple angles and explanations to picture it correctly, basically you first loop the strap around the boot and then bend the strap into and under the twister thru the hole opposite the cotter pin, then you make another full rotation thru the open end of the twister before feeding the loose end between the cotter pin legs, at this point it should start to look like the above drawing (missing the cotter pin frame thing) then you take up most of the slack before twisting the cotter pin, if you leave too much slack the cotter pin will become too large with strap and get jammed up, you have to have just the right amount of slack, you have to make the two rotations and feed thru the cotter pin to get it to tighten up and hold correctly, just one rotation does not work and it will loosen back up, I always keep an original factory wound strap around so I remember to look at it before attempting this trick

thank you bill for making this diagram it was a great help!!

Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:49 pm

You're welcome, but thank Nancy, she took the time to post the pics to help me In My Hour Of Need. (G.P.)

Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:52 pm

guteandtite wrote: i did notice too when removing the clamp that the pin frame seems to snap down against the tube and tension lock it in a way.

That is exactly right.

These were on our 62 ragtop tranny as well. Anyone know when they stopped using them?

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Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:18 am

Sorry for sounding a bit stooooopid here..... but...

I understand it all, right up to the point were the end of the strap goes through the legs of the cotter pin. In the BBT picture, it shows a long length left over, which is fine, except, if you wind the cotter pin to tighten it, surely you can only get just over 180 degrees of turn before it tries to feed the end back through the clamp?

How many turns are you supposed to make of the cotter pin?

Is it supposed to wind round the pin fully more than one and back through the clamp?

Hope that makes sense?

Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:00 am

Yeah, the BBT picture is not accurate I think.

It takes a full two times around the boot, the first one pasing through the little opening on the little metal square piece (second picture) and back around the boot so the last pass has the end slipping through the cotter pin so it can be tightened. (third picture)

Wed Dec 08, 2010 10:42 am

I understand that part - what I'm unsure of is how may turns you are supposed to wind up the cotter pin once the end has passed through.

Surely if you turn it more than 180 degrees, it'll want to wrap itself.... is this supposed to happen?

If so, do you thread the end back under the pin between the pin and the clamp?

Wed Dec 08, 2010 10:49 am

Yes, it will wrap upon itself. I recall only an inch or so being left to twist around the cotter but it depends on how much you wrap it on in the first picture.

You would not be able to tuck the end in anywhere since the metal square piece is now sandwiched between the first and second layers of strap.

Tightening the cotter will draw the whole asembly tight round the boot and there will not be room to room to tuck anything in.

I would just tighten it by twisting the cotter and cut it off if there were extra.

Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:13 am

nlorntson wrote: Yes, it will wrap upon itself. I recall only an inch or so being left to twist around the cotter but it depends on how much you wrap it on in the first picture.

You would not be able to tuck the end in anywhere since the metal square piece is now sandwiched between the first and second layers of strap.

Tightening the cotter will draw the whole asembly tight round the boot and there will not be room to room to tuck anything in.

I would just tighten it by twisting the cotter and cut it off if there were extra.

So does that mean that if there is no room to tuck anything under, then you can only turn the cotter about 180 degrees?

Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:58 am

im guessing after you feed the strap through the cotter pin the strap is cut about 1/2 inch past the pin, then pull it back til the strap is still fully through the cotter pins center, but flush at the side of the pin - THEN rotate the pin to to tighten it up.

im still wondering if this is best wound up using
a- a screw driver
b- pliers
c-some special tool made for this that really cranks it tighter than pliers or a screwdriver could ever muster

Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:17 am

guteandtite wrote: im guessing after you feed the strap through the cotter pin the strap is cut about 1/2 inch past the pin, then pull it back til the strap is still fully through the cotter pins center, but flush at the side of the pin - THEN rotate the pin to to tighten it up.

im still wondering if this is best wound up using
a- a screw driver
b- pliers
c-some special tool made for this that really cranks it tighter than pliers or a screwdriver could ever muster

That's what I'd figured - get it all taught, wind it round until it's about to go full circle to prevent it slipping, then snip it flush , then wind it up.

Anyone want to confirm this is correct?

Thu Dec 09, 2010 4:30 pm

Thats how I've always done them, and just used a small screwdriver in the pin to rotate it. Be careful how much tension you apply as it will squish out the rubber quite quickly, it's a static oil seal not a high pressure hydraulic line