| T3 Pilot |
Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:32 pm |
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I inspected cleaned and lubed the entire shift linkage this weekend. I used moly grease in all the lube points under the van and then had to use the van for an errand. The shifting was silky smooth at this point.
Brought the van back into the garage to complete the cleaning and lube of the gearshift plastic components. I cleaned out the crusty old moly grease and instead of regreasing with moly, I sprayed it with the same wool wax/lanolin based protectant that I have been using around the body of the van as a rustproof coating.
After that final spray the shifter slips into gear effortlessly. |
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| Terry Kay |
Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:00 pm |
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Spraying grease on the plastic wear points of the shift linkage won't last too long.
High temp, high pressure grease from Mystic or Citgo, will be there for s long time.
The spray grease is thinned to get outa the can so much it doesn't offer much in longevity or film strength.
It's better than nothing--but not much. |
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| skinnerclassics |
Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:31 pm |
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| Learned alot from your posts, gentleman. Thanks! |
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| cvbill |
Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:33 am |
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FYI
needed the front shift fork for my syncro, plastic tips gone . Found a like new 2wd fork at pic-n-pull, $13. It had different bends in the tubing than the Syncro tubing, but worked anyway with no interference at the front differental. Happy camper |
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| syncrodoka |
Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:08 am |
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| Didn't you move your shifter base back a few inches? |
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| cvbill |
Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:51 am |
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Moved the whole shift box rearward 8 1/2"; but this was about a year after the 2wd fork went in.
The 2&4wd forks are the same lengths. Let's go camping Mario! |
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| syncrodoka |
Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:01 am |
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I still need to check out that mod in real life. :)
A camping trip is planned for the end of the month. We found some much more interesting trails and campsites to run the syncros on. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=438285&start=100 |
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| Pascal |
Wed May 25, 2011 12:05 am |
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sc1out wrote:
That ball looked like mine. With those chunks missing you cannot get a good seal with the rubber boot. Dirt will get in the joint and wear the socket and ball. The balls are now being made again :D . In my case the aluminum shift lever socket had worn (due to contamination?) so I replaced that as well. |
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| DubNuts |
Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:49 am |
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Noticed this Topic and had a..
Question About the Front Shift Linkage Forks?
I've been battling some trans problems where my Trans Pops out of 4th gear. The Trans has been totally upgraded, including 3-4 slider hub, Syncros, Bearings etc, etc. Actually torn down Twice but I still have the 4th gear pop out. My Shift linkage was also upgraded new nylon gromets, etc.
My Front Linkage Shifter Fork Plastic Tabs are worn away, and now missing. I've tried a few fixes with no long term success, Fuel line, Epoxy build up etc. Thinking of trying some lead or braze some brass buildup on the tabs next to try to resolve the Tab issue. Could my missing tabs in anyway cause my 4th gear issues. I personally don't think it is related, as I can easily obtain all gears it's just the shifter has a little more play without the tabs, then those with tabs.
.... |
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| tschroeder0 |
Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:22 pm |
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My tabs were missing until I just recently "rebuilt" them, I had no problems whatsoever in the adjustment or with gears staying put. If I were you though I would remove the front "box" (where those tabs are located) and see if you have a problem finding/maintaining 4th.
It will tell you quickly if you have an adjustment issue or an internal issue. |
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| BenT Syncro |
Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:01 am |
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In SyncroDoka's response some months back, he refers to another thread where a pic of a "shift lever repair kit" for sale by Van Cafe is shown. Anybody have any idea where this goes? Is this to replace the bushings on the shiftrod ears or something else? I found the V.C. listing for the part but the description & pic below doesn't explain to use adequately for my understanding.
I have a spare NOS shiftrod for a Syncro which I was considered selling. I've had it for nearly ten years and was beginning to think I would never need it in my Syncro's lifetime. However, after reading all these damaged shiftrod stories here and in several forums I participate in, it seems prudent to hang on to it just a little while longer. At least until someone starts making them new or come up with a suitable replacement.
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| syncrodoka |
Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:16 am |
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Quote: Anybody have any idea where this goes?
I know where it goes. :wink:
It is the special bolt and bushings for the mechanical connection at the bottom of the shifter to the front shift rod. It helps to remove the slop that can contribute to shifting problems like many of shift components. |
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| ragnarhairybreeks |
Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:17 am |
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Ben,
bushings and bolts go at the end of the gear shift lever...
see some wear?
full story
http://shufti.wordpress.com/2011/05/29/vanagon-syncro-gear-shift-lever-maintenance/
alistair |
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| Keith Tanner |
Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:38 pm |
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I had a shifting problem with my van - if I got excited going into first gear, the lever would pop over the reverse detent and I'd be in no-man's land. On inspection, my shift rod had a broken plastic cover on the passenger's side ear.
I had some UHMW material left over from a previous project, and did the same thing 71MYSTABOO. It took about 20 minutes using a hacksaw and a drill. Cutting the slot for the tab was the most difficult part, but a bit of work with a 1/8" drill bit made it work. I drilled a number of holes side by side, then used the drill bit as a router to push sideways. Since UHMW is a plastic, it'll melt if you keep at it and I ended up with a nice smooth slot.
The shifter feels much better now. The lever stops firmly when I move it sideways to go for 1st, and it slips over the detent when I push the lever down just as intended.
You can get UHMW material from any plastic shop - just look in the yellow pages. You only need a tiny piece, so ask them if they have any scraps. If they charge you at all, it'll be just a couple of bucks. |
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| RBEmerson |
Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:46 pm |
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| Jus' lurkin'... |
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| jtrashy |
Sun Dec 18, 2011 4:00 pm |
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is there supposed to be this much gap between the fork and the housing box?
thanks
here is mine
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| Keith Tanner |
Sun Dec 18, 2011 4:16 pm |
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Not mine, but the picture that 71MYSTABOO posted earlier pretty much sums it up.
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| [email protected] |
Mon May 20, 2013 11:09 am |
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| I need some help in obtaining good used shift linkage for a 091-midshift as shown on the samba Transmission For Dummies. Decent used linkage from the shifter that goes through the floor of the 83.2 vanagon to the 2 ball shifter is on the leading side of the transmission. The DK10903 number is on the bottom of the transmission. see Bentley 34.2 gear shift linkage. Check out the Bentley 34.2 to 34.3: front shift rod, center shift rod and rear shift rod. feel free to call 816-220-8800 or email [email protected] |
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| plysaker |
Fri Aug 09, 2013 12:24 pm |
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First I did a bunch of reading here, looking at my rig & the Bentley and a few other online sites. I bought the 2 shaft bushings, and replaced the vertical plastic ball and rubber cover.
It takes a bit to lock the shifter 19mm or, my 14mm tall socket is 19mm so that, on a 1/2 wrench, some velcro kept the from in position long enough to get the junction lined up.
after one test, I rotated the front counterclockwise, and WHAMO!
I can shift well enough to let the Wife drive. |
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| davidbaldwin |
Wed Feb 10, 2016 2:31 am |
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Terry Kay wrote: If I was inspecting / lubing up the shift shaft, the first thing in order would be to at least remove the front & rear hollow polyurethane bushings and make sure that they were tight & lubed to the max.
The stock ones are hollow & if at all worn will give you all of the slop in shifting --a lot more than you need.
If they are a bit sloppy get a pair of the Delrin solid bushings on the shaft--it'll tighten that shaft slop outa there --like right now.
Second thing is to take the center ( aft ) CV/U-joint apart, clean the dried up grease outa them and lube well with high temp / low wash out sticky grease.
This will help a bunch.
Inspect the trans arm ball, make sure it's good & tight in the shift shaft cup, and load the cup up with high temp grease too.
Take a good look at the split pin & holes at the shifter cup--they can get all wallowed out and make for a bunch of play in the shift shaft--before the trans arm.
The front tabs at the shift lever bottom are also real important--and the bind here is that they front assembly is NLa, and nobody has come up with a viable solution to rebuild them--this is a big problem.
Hello,
I'm new to TheSamba and we're trying to repair my daughter's 83.5 Vanagon in order to sell it. The rear vertical linkage is broken, and I've been told that there used to be a kit available to replace some or all of these. My photos are attached. I'd really like to know how and where I can get these parts (circled in my attached diagrams). Please and thanks!
p.s. I also don't know the names of these parts (don't have the legend for the diagram). I did just check out a gowesty page that referred to these as Part #9 (hard plastic ball and stainless steel shift ball lever) seems to be the main trouble. Rest are 2 (boot), 10&11 (hardware), 25 & 26 (shifter elbow and pin). Their kit is not available (at this time)?
David
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