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Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:45 pm

In fact, I just placed an order for about a dozen obscure bits, such as all the hoses in the above photos, and all sealing o-rings, the gasket and the bearing for the Power Steering Pump. Sort of a test order.

The excellent site lists all these items as "yellow Dot" parts, which, I expect, means that they are going to source them from Subaru. They explain that yellow items are not in stock and will require 4 days min. before shipping. This is GREAT! We are able to access the Subaru OEM parts supply system at a discount, AND do it without ever leaving our desk.

THANKS AGAIN!

Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:43 am

Gaining more respect now for this EG33 engine, and encouraged by the new ease of obtaining OEM parts, I placed an order this morning with Richard Jones in England, for his bell housing (turbo clutch setup) and Subaru input shaft.

Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:42 am

JWPATE wrote: Gaining more respect now for this EG33 engine, and encouraged by the new ease of obtaining OEM parts, I placed an order this morning with Richard Jones in England, for his bell housing (turbo clutch setup) and Subaru input shaft.

Great choice!
My next SVX Syncro build will use RJES.

Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:37 pm

just keep ordering all the little bits and pieces, and you'll get there.

The RJES is excellent.

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Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:48 pm

My but that is a nice photo!
What intake collector box is that?
Where do those A/C lines go? Do you have them wrapped around the rear and back up the left side?

Nice indeed!

Thu Feb 17, 2011 3:30 pm

That plastic check valve arrived today; and yes it is indeed a one-way check valve, which allows the vacuum tank to hold a charge even if the manifold vacuum is nil, as at wide open throttle.

Thu Feb 17, 2011 5:15 pm

Now, back under the intake manifold. Earlier I was locating the mystery hose section and sorting out the induction system, but there are two more solenoids mounted under the manifold - so I was testing them also.
One, the EGR solenoid was dead. It did not open at the voltage level which it should operate, so I have tagged it while waiting for a new part.

And of course, this led to sorting through all the various items which comprise the EGR system. First there is the vacuum side which provides the operating force for the larger EGR valve. Shown below is the front fuel line and attached are two smaller vacuum lines associated with the EGR. They both plumb into the intake collector just upstream of the throttle valves (one on each horn of the intake). At their other ends, one of the two just plumbs directly into the BPT, and the other runs first to the Solenoid in the previous photo, and is thus controlled by the ECU. It is all together quite a lot of plumbing, one solenoid and two vacuum valves, so the system does not appear likely to be trouble-free.

I have not any experience with EGR systems, but it does look a little Rube Goldberg in the layout. The temptation begins to rise for just eliminating the lot of it. Subaru puts the best face on this issue that they can, suggesting that routing exhaust gas back for a second time through the engine will reduce combustion temperatures and thus result in less NO emissions. They go on to claim that the reduced temperature can improve gas milage.

Does anyone believe that last claim? Sounds like a real stretch to me, something along the lines of reducing the nations health care costs by adding 30m non-paying patients to the rolls. Anyway, at least for now I have the hoses and the Solenoid valve on order.

But then look at this.....

Another ugly pair of hang-ons, right at a location which will already be crowed with the harness connections.
If I do keep the system intact as I now plan to do, then both of these will be replaced, EGR on bottom and the BPT above.

Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:27 pm

And then there is the issue of that pipe running from the port side exhaust manifold up to the EGR valve. This old exhaust system is to be taken off today, and will never be refitted. Some replacement header system will be used, most probably from one of the conversion specialists. I suppose a threaded bung can be welded in the new header at a nearby location......but there would seem to be about zero chance that I can use that pipe with out some modification.

Actually the pipe cleaned up OK and could be reused if it were not for the proposed change in the headers. It is stainless and we know for certain that it will not be easy to simply bend it to a new shape. It might be easier to cut it at such an angle that another section from the new header bung can be joined neatly by welding. But for sure it is going to take some time and effort.

Again, the viability of keeping the EGR system operational is called into serious question.

Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:47 pm

Much easier to work around without the accumulated muck. She isn't ready for the lawn at Pebble Beach.....but it's much easier to figure things out now.

But what do we have here? That oil pan has been distorted, and probably by a mishap in it's past. I expected to find the threads stripped there at the missing screw/bolt, but no, they are fine.

Anyway, it is time now to take off those front belt covers, and to do that the crank pulley must first come off. One could easily stop the crank from turning by locking up the flywheel end, but that option would not apply later, when the belt is due for a change. So best to come up with a proper tool which can be used at the front. SPX still lists the tool, but are presently out of stock. I found this one on eBay (it is for a later model Impreza). It has the correct pins in the right spacing, but that head is about 1.5 mm too big to go into the EG33 pulley. Here I have the pins knocked about half way out to check they are indeed suitable for the sprocket holes. They are.

So next I knock them the rest of the way out and go to work on that tool head with a bench grinding wheel. Just take it down until the head makes a sweet fit into the pulley, then replace the pins.

And it slips right in there against the pulley shoulder with plenty of space to get a socket on the crank nut.

Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:39 pm

Late yesterday this hose arrived. It does look like nice stuff, and in three different sizes for the various vacuum hard lines. Does anyone have data to suggest that this silicone hose is likely to hold up better than the OEM segments. Life expectancy still about ten years?

Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:01 pm

With that crank pulley off, it is now possible to remove the plastic sprocket covers and have a look inside. Not too bad.

Here the first effort is made to actually turn the engine over. It hasn't been turned in a good long while, but feels ok. The spark plugs are out, and the next thing will be to see what the overall condition is, by a leakdown test.

This photo is number one cylinder being tested and it is about the average for this particular engine. The actual percentage leakage on the different cylinders was:
1 - 37%
6 - 35%
3 - 07%
2 - 90%
5 - 28%
4 - 12%

Ah, if only they all could have been like number three. But they were not, and number two is a show stopper. The primary leakage on that cylinder is at the intake valve. One (or maybe both) of those valves is a problem.

This certainly cannot be just a case of new belts, hoses and seals. Anyone know of a West Coast shop experienced and well set-up for rebuilding EG33 heads??

With that decided, off come the sprockets, belt and idlers. I will say this much though - the further I get into this engine, the more I like the design.

Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:31 pm

Today I did get around to working on the damaged corner of the oil pan, as seen in an earlier image. Somehow, the edge of that corner had been crushed down flat with the underlying engine surface, and had split in the process.

I just formed it back to shape and welded the split back up. I worked to get the sealing surface flat and true, and it seems to be so - at least sufficient for a good seal. So I will stick with this pan for now.

Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:28 pm

Keep it comin'
I'm sittin here with a big bowl of popcorn =D>

Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:34 pm

Just throw some carburetors on that thing.

Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:29 pm

Man #2 blows.... too bad she wasn't still in car so you could run her.... would stink to pull her apart for a peice of carbon on a valve.... love following your thread

Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:16 pm

Yea, I'm a little disappointed in the state of the engine - as exposed in the leak down tests. And, I had considered starting out with a running car, but didn't do so because of my constrained work space. I just haven't the room for extra cars setting around being stripped.

Also, I already figured that the days of easy EG33 swaps are over. The engines are too old now to expect a simple, belt-change swap, at least in my view. Even had the numbers been better, I still would have stripped her down for inspection and new rubber. After 20 years the rubber o-rings and seals are a full decade beyond life expectancy.

In that regard, the 3.0 six is a far better proposition at this time, than is the EG33. It is still available in new long block orders and in low milage junk yard version. Either way a better choice considering only cost.

But in life, there is also the love factor. And engines have a romance consideration too, few more vibrantly than Miss. EG33.

So I am not really suffering a setback at this point. The real show stopper for this particular engine is still not exposed. If the case is good then the buildup will go forward. If not, then I will try another.

Thu Feb 24, 2011 5:15 am

If to want a 3.0 let me know I may be able to scrounge one up.

Thu Feb 24, 2011 5:37 am

Don't be too discouraged by your leak down numbers-it could be just a little corrosion from the valve being open/ in storage for so long. I'm betting you can run it as is. I just fired my SVX conversion for the first time 4 days ago (only took a year). I see it allot-engines that have been sitting a long time will give you weird numbers like that.

Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:15 am

rotorimp wrote: Don't be too discouraged by your leak down numbers-it could be just a little corrosion from the valve being open/ in storage for so long. I'm betting you can run it as is. I just fired my SVX conversion for the first time 4 days ago (only took a year). I see it allot-engines that have been sitting a long time will give you weird numbers like that.

X2.

No engine will show a low # if it a been sitting for a wile.
On perfectly good working late engine I often see hight # (leak), even in the red zone. I have removed many heads for NOTHING.

Leak down mean nothing on an engine that as been sitting, your better off with a compression test.

Since you went that far anyway, I would do the head gasket, clean valves seat/valve. Remember that you need to remove the camshaft to remove the head and torque them properly back. If you need # I can provide them.

I would not do anything to the bottom end if a compression test is good.
But to do so you need a transmission/bell housing.

But hey, it's a fun hobby that you have there now, no hurry!

Ben

Thu Feb 24, 2011 7:22 am

I have purchased so many EG33 motors I have lost track of the number.
I no longer buy them if they are not in a running car.
I test them before even pulling the engine.
Yes, they are getting older, but there are many out there in excellent condition.
I have a few available if needed.

I have installed RMW and SC EG33 conversion headers, both have EGR bungs and can be located where you need.
Call Mike at RMW, I think he just made up a few sets.
I have a thread here showing them installed.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=446095&highlight=rmw+svx

dylan