TheSamba.com :: View topic - How to "rekey" VW door handles. A picture tutorial

Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:18 am

I can see where you're coming from, It depends how different the new key is to the old key.
This is an ignition barrel but same principal.

Thats a different key in it and you can see its pushed several of the wafers right out about 4-5mm as its alot different to the standard key.
By filing the 4mm off thats less material that is locking into the slot in the housing part to stop it turning, if you stick a yet another key in that doesnt push them out quite as far.

It's a hard thing to try and explain but it's not a huge concern anyway, VW's are so easy to break into even with perfect locks that it doesnt really matter.

Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:25 am

Forgive me if I am being a bit dumb here, but couldn't someone hypothetically make some new wafers in the same shape as the old ones, insert them into holes, and than file those down. A bit more meticulous than hording old wafers, but still effective right? Unless I am overlooking something

Also, I know that with fat chicks it is much easier to remove the barrel, but whats it like with '67s. I need to do this to my '67, but I haven't pulled the handles off to see what its like back there.

Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:10 am

I enjoyed the pictures and the descriptions. Nicely done. Thanks.

Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:50 am

I AGREE, this is a very informative post. Nice pictures and excellent close ups to provide necessary detail for digging into this project on my 66 Bug. I picked up a door handle at a Swap meet last year and now I'm getting motivated to get out to the garage and start to play. Plus it's finally beginning to feel like Spring and the garage doesn't feel quite like an ice cave.

One day the driver's side door was working fine and then the next during a pouring rain storm (of course) hurried out to the car and the key wouldn't turn. Probably jammed it somehow because I was trying to hurry.

X3 on the German e-mail to order a VW key for $25.

Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:42 am

skabonner wrote: Forgive me if I am being a bit dumb here, but couldn't someone hypothetically make some new wafers in the same shape as the old ones, insert them into holes, and than file those down. A bit more meticulous than hording old wafers, but still effective right? Unless I am overlooking something

The thing is, wafers aren't different sizes. They are all the exact same length. The difference between each one is the offset of the hole inside the wafer. This offset is what makes the teeth on the key get the wafer in the correct position.

PS, the pic above is from a thread I did a while back on our local site about re-keying an ignition if anyone is interested.
http://forum.georgiadubs.com/t2624-how-to-re-keying-an-ignition-switch

Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:26 am

rokemester wrote: Quote: I agree a nice tutorial and a great way to re-key. but why would anyone want to do this? I email VW in Germany with the key code and they happily cut me keys from code on the year correct VW blanks from '49 up less than $25 shipped in two days.............. Unless $25 is too much

Would you mind sharing German e-mail address? Thanks.

I'll list instructions again tonight and photograph the keys - they no longer stamp the key code on them - I guess that is just modern practice. I'll show the invoice too. And if anyone needs keys I'll help them - we could save on postage from Germany.

*************************************************************

So here's the keys VW sent me from Germany for my '66, these I bought a while back and bought '71 keys just before the holidays. My memory failed me, they do stamp part of the code. The two keys shown cost me (in Euros) 3.10 for the blank, 4.20 for cutting and 8.06 shipping - so two keys cost 22.66 Euro at today's rate that is $31.79.

They took a few days to get to me.

I'm more than happy to share the instructions on how to buy direct from VW Germany. I would prefer a PM and I'll share everything.

Why? because 18 months ago I offered the service of obtaining keys from VW Germany in the classifieds, at the time it all had to be done in German and I got a bunch of unpleasant emails accusing me of profiteering and selling copies from China etc. So I pulled the Ad. I was offering a service and it's okay to make a few bucks in doing so.

VWoA has no interest in sharing the availability of parts for Aircooled VW's, According to VW Germany these keys should be available from any US VWoA dealership. I don't have the inclination to go in and ask and be made to feel like an idiot by their parts guys, at least not while VW Germany offers a polite and reliable source for all VW keys cut from code on the correct blanks from '49 up. I also know that http://www.aircooledkey.com/ do an excellent service.
enjoy. feel free to PM me questions.

Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:56 pm

Very cool. THANKS!

Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:41 pm

skabonner wrote: Forgive me if I am being a bit dumb here, but couldn't someone hypothetically make some new wafers in the same shape as the old ones, insert them into holes, and than file those down. A bit more meticulous than hording old wafers, but still effective right? Unless I am overlooking something

Also, I know that with fat chicks it is much easier to remove the barrel, but whats it like with '67s. I need to do this to my '67, but I haven't pulled the handles off to see what its like back there.

Just did my bucket tonight...the '67 is basically the same as ovalteens '65,cept it doesnt have the grub screw...pull the door handle,remove the screw retaining the pushbutton/lockcylinder guide,remove spring,remove the lock cylinder,bang out the roll pin and go for it...I pulled two wafers on mine,swapped two others,polished the barrel and shaft and it worked like it should..

Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:11 pm

Just had 2 original keys made by sending the key code from my handle. :D $15 shipped for 1 key. www.aircooledkey.com . my keys arrived in 3 days. :D

Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:06 am

Ovalteen thanks for the excellent writeup and photo tutorial. However one chooses to do it, your writeup certainly shows it is well within the capabilities of anyone needing it. I had not considered rekeying, but after reading this I am going to do so. I have a couple of handles laying around. :)

Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:21 pm

Comments added, just bumping up the post

Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:25 am

Nice write up!
I had to do the ignition on my old 73. The key got stuck in the ignition with the motor running... I had to disassemble the entire lock and found out someone tried at one time to jimmy the lock assy. bending some of the tumblers. I ended up taking all of them out but one, not very secure, but if they wanted the bug they could take it regardless of what lock was in there.

It was kinda nice to be able to drive off with my pocket knife in the ignition though! Just glad I never got pulled over with that screwdriver sticking outta the hole...

Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:33 am

I'm trying to re key my lock from the engine cover. (1961 beetle)
I've already gotten the handle apart, but only two ping will come out.
The other four will go up and down, but will not come out.
I've also found a article on the internet about re keying (http://www.ebbo.org/re_keying.php)
Can any one tell me how to get the other four pins out?
I don't ave a key for the engine lock so 'm trying to make it work on the key of the doors.

Here are some pictures:

Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:08 am

some of the wafer slots get peened over on the edge and it keeps them in. I used a fine file to grind out the peened area and they fell right out.

Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:07 pm

derluftwagen wrote: some of the wafer slots get peened over on the edge and it keeps them in. I used a fine file to grind out the peened area and they fell right out.

Thanks. I have now changes the pins successfully, and can lock my engine bay :D

Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:08 pm

marc80 wrote:
In the future, do not remove the stainless steel cap off the end of the lock cylinder.
To remove stubborn wafers, put the tip of a small slotted screwdriver on the bottom end and hit it with a small hammer. They always pop out.

Thu May 05, 2011 6:18 pm

First of all, what a fantastic thread.

Seeing marc80's T-handle re-keying, I am trying the same exact thing - using my ignition key on my 61 decklid.

I got all the wafers out, but whatever combination I try placing them in different slots, I can't get them to all get inside when the key is inserted. There are always two culprits sticking their heads out. What am I missing?

Fri May 06, 2011 7:49 am

www.aircooledkey.com no longer works it seems.

Anyone know what happened to this service?

-Alan

Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:40 am

Thanks to this thread, I was able to re-key the three different locks (ignition, door, engine lid) on my 61 to use the ignition key! And I did so by simply changing the wafers around until the key fit, without having to grind them - although I did have to omit a wafer or two. But even with 4 wafers out of the 6 it works good and I prefer that than having to use a different key.

A question:
Did VW change the lock mechanism over the years? I have a spare handle which is different from the one on my car. Please look at the pics below for reference. I guess the second type is a later one?

The one on my 61 (the first 2 pics) has a self-lock mechanism, meaning the locking function is in the handle - you can actually lock the handle when it is not installed in the car - turning the key locks the button in place and it cannot be pressed.

Pics 3 and 4 is a mechanism that the key only moves the paddle to both sides. Is it supposed to move a component in the car's door lock?

Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:28 am

beetleman217 wrote: Thanks to this thread, I was able to re-key the three different locks (ignition, door, engine lid) on my 61 to use the ignition key! And I did so by simply changing the wafers around until the key fit, without having to grind them - although I did have to omit a wafer or two. But even with 4 wafers out of the 6 it works good and I prefer that than having to use a different key.

A question:
Did VW change the lock mechanism over the years? I have a spare handle which is different from the one on my car. Please look at the pics below for reference. I guess the second type is a later one?

The one on my 61 (the first 2 pics) has a self-lock mechanism, meaning the locking function is in the handle - you can actually lock the handle when it is not installed in the car - turning the key locks the button in place and it cannot be pressed.

Pics 3 and 4 is a mechanism that the key only moves the paddle to both sides. Is it supposed to move a component in the car's door lock?

Yes, VW changed handles and the lock mechanisms over the years.

Your first two pictured handles are the earlier type, and as you say the button is locked by the cylinder. You will have a round shaft on the door latch that the handle pushes in on to open.

The later style latches have the mechanism for locking. The paddle type handle moves the latch to the locked position.