| aircooled356 |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:46 am |
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| Well, I decided to cut and replace all of the cancer on my 57' Baja late last year. Found more than I thought....seems like that is always the case. Also found a couple of bullet holes thru the B pillar and a shit load of bondo. :shock: This was my first attempt at serious bodywork but I've enjoyed it alot except for the tedious task of getting it perfectly straight. So, I am at the point of skim coating the low spots with bondo and knocking it down progressively with 60,120 and 220 grit. I'm at the 220 stage now but I've got some mild wave action going on but it must only be a few thou difference. I'm using a paint stick for a sanding board which is working well. Does it have to be perfect before primer or is that what final blocking is for? This is my first real attempt at bodywork and paint (did sand and paint a 32' school bus back in the day but I'm looking for a more professional result). I thought this little body would be a snap but......man I'm sick of the sanding and dust all over my nice garage! Hopefully someone will tell me that the blocking will go more quickly. :roll: |
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| spook |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:52 am |
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| sand till straight |
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| Mike Fisher |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 12:01 pm |
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| Rattle can some red oxide primer on some spots and you can see if it's perfect. 320 grit is as high as I go before epoxy primer. |
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| aircooled356 |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:42 pm |
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| Bummer. I guess I'll keep sanding away at it. Can I primer over 220 or should I go to 320? |
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| spook |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:28 pm |
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| 320 |
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| dawerks |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:46 pm |
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Sucks huh? :)
You can wet sand once your high build is on so that gets rid of all the mess. And if you spray with water, that's how it will look when it's painted.
(I'm in the same boat dude, it's not fun at all, and my helper is not that good haha). |
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| TonysGarage |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:30 pm |
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unfortunately, once you think you're done with the sanding---you're gonna have to go once more.
but--let me caution you--and i'm surprised nobody has said anything yet--i wouldn't be surprised if many of the waves are caused by sanding with a paint stick. if your block isnt dead on flat--you will be creating small waves instead of removing them---with all that work its a shame not to spend a few bucks and get a block.
just to give you an idea---about 4 years ago i had a customer who was doing his own bodywork swing by and ask for some advice cause he could not get the wave out--he said he spend maybe 8 hours sanding but it never helped--i glanced at his block and noticed it wasn't flat---he was wasting TONS of time!--within 15 minutes i had it all straightened out with a proper block. |
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| dawerks |
Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:56 pm |
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| On blocks, when is it a good time to chuck them? I have durablocs but I noticed one of my favorite ones has the edge a little bit rounded off. Does that mean it's a toss?? |
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| aircooled356 |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:04 am |
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TonysGarage wrote: unfortunately, once you think you're done with the sanding---you're gonna have to go once more.
but--let me caution you--and i'm surprised nobody has said anything yet--i wouldn't be surprised if many of the waves are caused by sanding with a paint stick. if your block isnt dead on flat--you will be creating small waves instead of removing them---with all that work its a shame not to spend a few bucks and get a block.
just to give you an idea---about 4 years ago i had a customer who was doing his own bodywork swing by and ask for some advice cause he could not get the wave out--he said he spend maybe 8 hours sanding but it never helped--i glanced at his block and noticed it wasn't flat---he was wasting TONS of time!--within 15 minutes i had it all straightened out with a proper block.
Well, as this is my first real attempt at doing it right, I have wasted many hours for sure but I'm learning alot in the process. Gotta put in the time I guess. If it was easy everyone would be doing it. :wink: I did buy a block (2 3/4"x12" foam type) but it is more flexible than the stick. Maybe I should give it another try. Thanks for all of the advice. |
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| beetlenut |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:22 am |
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I bought this 3M one and have been very happy with the results so far!
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:21 am |
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(2 3/4"x12" foam type)
Is way to big of a block for the curves
Hopefully you are sanding only the flat spots with this ! |
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:23 am |
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On second thought-- is there any way you can work with someone and have them mentor you for the first few jobs ?
The tricks of the trade are not well explained unless one is in person - watching and then suggesting |
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| aircooled356 |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:56 am |
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| Yes, I've only used it on the doors so far. Not many flat areas on these cars! As far as mentoring, the closest shop is nearly an hour away. I'll figure this out sooner or later......most likely later. |
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| eshan2 |
Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:30 pm |
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Work in an X pattern this will help alot along with a proper block.I posted this in another thread the other day they are what I have and are very good.A little pricey but worth it.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/afssanders.aspx
Now you know why this work is so expensive to hire out.nothing is really "cheap" |
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| Foxx |
Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:30 am |
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aircooled356 wrote: ::snip:: .man I'm sick of the sanding and dust all over my nice garage! Hopefully someone will tell me that the blocking will go more quickly. :roll:
pay someone to do it or stop now and let it look like poop.
bodywork is not like replacing brakes or doing a motor,
it is done when you are happy with it,..ain't happy? then you ain't done.
ain't done but tired,..paint will look like shit for half measures. |
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:00 am |
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You so not need to find a shop == they will just tell you whatever they need to say to get you to spend money there
You need someone that has done it before to help you out -- for free !
Just try to do that -- just ask -- like on Craig’s list or here in the Samba -- take time to ask around |
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| Mike Fisher |
Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:49 am |
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| If you had it All in red oxide primer you could See all the bad spots that need more work and drive it while you work on it. |
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| aircooled356 |
Sat Apr 02, 2011 7:29 pm |
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Foxx wrote: aircooled356 wrote: ::snip:: .man I'm sick of the sanding and dust all over my nice garage! Hopefully someone will tell me that the blocking will go more quickly. :roll:
pay someone to do it or stop now and let it look like poop.
bodywork is not like replacing brakes or doing a motor,
it is done when you are happy with it,..ain't happy? then you ain't done.
ain't done but tired,..paint will look like shit for half measures.
Exactly. That's why I'm asking how far to go. Consensus is get it straight before primer. I will not give up or take it to someone after all of this hard work. I can feel the areas needing work so I will press on. I'm on a mission...and when I'm satisfied with it I will move on to the next step. :wink: |
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| JerryMCarter1 |
Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:20 pm |
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Yosemite
ya got the right stuff ! |
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| Foxx |
Sun Apr 03, 2011 5:31 am |
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aircooled356 wrote: Foxx wrote: aircooled356 wrote: ::snip:: .man I'm sick of the sanding and dust all over my nice garage! Hopefully someone will tell me that the blocking will go more quickly. :roll:
pay someone to do it or stop now and let it look like poop.
bodywork is not like replacing brakes or doing a motor,
it is done when you are happy with it,..ain't happy? then you ain't done.
ain't done but tired,..paint will look like shit for half measures.
Exactly. That's why I'm asking how far to go. Consensus is get it straight before primer. I will not give up or take it to someone after all of this hard work. I can feel the areas needing work so I will press on. I'm on a mission...and when I'm satisfied with it I will move on to the next step. :wink:
Bravo! |
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