TheSamba.com :: View topic - Pedal Assembly stop plate adjustment advice

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:30 pm

Can someone help...I am in the process of adjusting the stop plate for my clutch and brake pedal on my 56 Oval, does the same stop plate control both pedals positioning on this assembly? (The screws over to the right)

I have pushed the brake pedal back so the face is vertical but the pushrod is engaging the master cyclinder, is it best to just adjust the stop plate or should I risk adjusting the rod?

Also, should this rigid brake hose be running through the pedal assembly like it is? (If not, where should it be located?)

I want to just get both the pedals in the right location but I don't want to run the risk of having my brakes cooking and binding on just because of my amateur skills. I've read my service manual but its not giving me much confidence I'm afraid. An idiot proof guide on how I should sdjust it all would be great :D

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:47 pm

According to this diagram, the RHD pedal cluster has two separate stop plates, one for the clutch and one for the brake.

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:51 pm

I don't think it's a good idea to have the brake line running right under that moving part of the pedal cluster, you could get a small rock jammed under there and puncture the brake line. On the LHD, the line runs around the entire pedal cluster, then heads straight to the side of the tunnel.

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:52 pm

I was just unsure, I am rather concerned about this potential brake freeplay issue with the pushrod though.

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:56 pm

You need 1mm clearance between the push rod and the master cylinder piston. This is so that the master cylinder piston is able to fully return to the rear of the master cylinder. You should be able to feel that clearance when you push on the brake pedal slowly with your hand.

Thu Apr 14, 2011 2:58 pm

1mm clearance isn't much to feel tbf, does it matter if it is a little more?

Any ideas on that rigid fuel line location?

Thu Apr 14, 2011 3:22 pm

A little more is not dangerous, a little less is not good. See above for my brake line comments.

Thu Apr 14, 2011 3:25 pm

Is it possible with the brakeline to then cut it where it comes through the firewall, cut it but the tunnel and then add in a semi-circle section around the assembly then? (I'm not sure whats feasible as I've never done it, or do I just rip it out and start again?

Thu Apr 14, 2011 4:22 pm

I have never heard of anyone splicing their brake lines, I'm sure it's possible with the correct compression fittings, but I would not recommend it. It should take you about 45 minutes to 1.5 hours to install a new line and the cost is going to be less than $20.