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Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:55 pm

Hi folks,

Just bought a used tank to swap out for my dented/leaky one, and drained all the gas inside. Though I plugged up the holes while cleaning it, a few bits of debris/gunk hovering about the openings fell in during the process. I also noticed the entire inside is covered in brown spots. So my question is: do I need to clean the inside before installation? If so, how? Can I just rinse it out with a bit of gas, or is that too dangerous? And what are those brown spots, rust?

-J

Thu May 31, 2012 6:34 am

Regarding the feed and return lines...

I've done the tank reseal and new lines to the motor, but like an idiot I never replaced the feed and return lines from and to the tank.

For a couple of years I've had the common buzzing fuel pump issue and an odd hesitation issue, like the motor is clearing its throat on heavy acceleration and also hesitates ever-so-slightly on acceleration, just enough to be noticeable. I couldn't figure it out.

A few weeks ago after a fill-up, I noticed an unusually strong fuel smell. On a whim I got under there and just touched the feed line. The whole thing went wet. It didn't drip, but gas was seeping out around the connection to the tank.

Dumbass...I never changed those two hoses. Upon further inspection, they were both dry-rotted, cracked, and leaking at the clamps.

I replaced them a few days later, and no more pump whine, no more hesitation. I can't believe the hesitation issue was as simple as that, but I'm assuming that the feed line was allowing air into the system before the pump and causing cavitation and slight fuel starvation. In any case, problem solved!

So, remember to change those two hoses! And give yourself a swift kick in the ass if you overlooked it like I did.

Thu May 31, 2012 8:27 am

joetiger wrote: So, remember to change those two hoses! And ...

And for anyone else about to put in a NEW tank, check out this thread regarding the hassles they may cause when seating the fuel gage sending unit. I'll be redoing my install in a couple weeks because of this issue.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=513681&highlight=fuel+tank+reseal

On the plus side, I get to use my step-dad's GIANT garage, ramps, jack, etc. The job only took me 4 1/2 hours the first time and I bet I can shave an hour off of that on round two.

Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:24 pm

Putting in a tank and all new seals etc... one question I haven't seen addressed is: there is a hook/ clamp screwed into the body of the van that looks like it may be to hold the crossover tube in place. You can see it in the center. Is this what it is actually used for???

Fri Jul 13, 2012 2:44 pm

torchmonkey wrote: Putting in a tank and all new seals etc... one question I haven't seen addressed is: there is a hook/ clamp screwed into the body of the van that looks like it may be to hold the crossover tube in place. You can see it in the center. Is this what it is actually used for???

Yes.

Fri Jul 13, 2012 2:46 pm

OK good. thanks. moving right along then...

Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:52 am

When you do the tank reseal, don't neglect to replace the rubber bushings in the top of the expansion tanks. Water can get thrown up from the wheel, get into the tank, and from there to your gas tank. Trust me on this, no fun! Mine were toast, but when I put in a new tank and lines, I didn't pull the expansion tanks off....bad move!

Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:58 pm

Ok, Im in the middle of doing my tank reseal and I discovered that my hard plastic lines are brittle, one of my hard plastic lines that go into my roll over float valve just snapped as I was unhooking my expansion tank. THen as I inspected it it broke again. I am referring to #19 as seen in the following diagram:

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/images/parts/VW/fullsize/004032000.jpg

I called GoWesty and Van Cafe and both places say that they do not sell this hard plastic hose. They both suggested using old/used line from a salvaged bus. To me that is not an option.

I thought about using some of this,

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=23642&category_id=&category_parent_id=

I have some in front of me, left over from my fuel line replacement kit that I used awhile back and it looks to be the same size. When I called GoWesty to ask them about using this they said that it is not advised.

I looked through threads on tank resealing and I read that some simply used fuel line and skipped using the hard plastic line all together, whereas some had replaced the hard plastic line with another.

I found this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=540629&start=0

....and....

indytriple, in this thread stated: "I used standard fuel line from the FLAPS to replace ALL of the black plastic hose. It's a bunch. If I recall it's something like 10-12 feet of hose. It has been working great. The expansion tanks are snug, and there doesn't seem to be undue pressure on the roll-over valve from the increased diameter tubing on top. There's no room to spare, though."

And...

Vanagon Nut wrote:

I recall now what I did. I just slipped a piece of fuel hose over the nylon hose and valve nipple. It was a tight fit. The logic being that there shouldn't be much, if any, pressure in the EVAP system (if it's working right) and the original nylon hose was a slip fit. Finding a sweet spot for that transition to fit in the stock position, and allow expansion tank to seat was not easy but AFAIK, it fit with little to no pressure on valve.

In another thread, seen here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=591853&highlight=fuel+expansion+tank

wasserbox had stated: I got some bulk FI hose from Autozone and replaced every bit of fuel line.

Ok, so I have several questions...............

It is strange to me that these kits do not address this, nor do any of the vendors seem to carry replacement line for these sections. Why replace the age old rubber hoses and leave the black plastic ones as they are?

1)
I found this when looking around online:, http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html#hose

Under Locating Hose: it lists Fuel hose (FI), Breather lines, Would this be the stuff I need?

2)
What is the consensus here? What is the opinion of those who have done this as to the best method in replacing all of these black lines?

3)
And... Does anyone have any links to replacement lines, or part numbers, etc?

Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:01 pm

Anyone???

Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:21 am

If the hose is fuel rated, it won't matter that much if its that stiff or not. Just make sure it isn't pinched or rubbing anywhere and any FLAPs hose that fits should be just fine. I doubt the system will pull enough vaccuum to collapse the hose, the main concern when looking at stiff vs flexible, though that's a really easy test with a mighty vac, might be a good thing to try, just to have the info.

I, too, broke a hose and one of the rollover valves. I used a short length of what was in the VanCafe kit and a new valve to fix it.

Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:50 pm

Thanks Fraggie00...

I found out that Ken, from Van-Again has this line available for order.

Props to Ken !!!

http://www.vanagain.com/

He was able to find the one that broke, It is #19 from the following image:

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/images/parts/VW/fullsize/004032000.jpg

Wed Jul 29, 2015 1:51 pm

do any of y'all know the screw size for the 3 screws that attach the filler neck (tube) to the exterior of the nozzle placement ring?

Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:10 pm

jfrog wrote: do any of y'all know the screw size for the 3 screws that attach the filler neck (tube) to the exterior of the nozzle placement ring?

I don't know the actual size but I don't think they are anything special. Just stubby little self tapping screws. If you're missing them I would just figure out how large the screw holes are and find something at a hardware store that is just a bit larger in diameter and about 1/2 inch long.

Wed Jul 29, 2015 3:11 pm

I went to the hardware store and bought some simple, stainless steel, sheet metal, Phillips head screws.