TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun May 15, 2011 7:36 am

I have a 1641cc in my 73 SB. After reading some other threads, my curiosity has me wondering if would be a good idea to install a temp. gauge. Is it worth the trouble? Do these engines tend to run a bit hotter than than a comparable water-cooled engine. My father warned me years ago when I started using my bug as a daily driver these engines tend to run pretty hot, so I shouldn't run the RPM's too high when I'm shifting gears.

Sun May 15, 2011 7:47 am

The temperature comparison is a little misleading because in a water cooled engine you measure the temperature of the coolant to determine the engine's temperature. In and air cooled engine, you measure either the oil temperature or the metal temperature of the cylinder head, so the numbers themselves will be very different. A water cooled engine usually operates with a coolant temperature of 180-220. An air cooled VW engine cylinder head temperature is in a safe operating range of 300-350 (some say even a little higher than that). I would hesitate in saying that an air cooled engine runs hotter than a water pumper, and in good tune with all the cooling system parts in place, they can return many years and many miles of reliable service. Don't know if I really answered your question, but hope it helped.

Sun May 15, 2011 8:06 am

and oil temps should usually be in the range of 180-220º or so, but it really is dependant on where the sender is located.

Sun May 15, 2011 9:36 am

Dont keep RPM too low though.

Sun May 15, 2011 11:12 am

Thanks for the info! I didn't really consider from what the temperature is being measured. When I rebuilt the engine I decided to install a slightly larger oil pump to help keep the temp down, but I suppose I increased the oil pressure through the rest of the engine as well.

Sun May 15, 2011 5:02 pm

Adding an oil temp gauge and/or a cyl. head temp gauge will never hurt. Always good idea to keep an eye on engine temps. Don't buy into all the ACVW myths and misconceptions (sp). These cars didn't survive all these years (since the 1930's) because owners didn't let the RPM's get to high. If everything is there and the engine is tuned right and in decent shape.... just DRIVE IT!!! Don't loose sleep over nothing! Figure during the 1950's, 60's, and 70's, ACVW's were the Honda Civic and Toyota Carolla of the day. Cheap, reliable transportation. These cars are alot stronger and more resiliant tham most people give credit for. I drive my 72 Super everyday over 60 miles.... with plenty of short burst to redline and she LOVES IT!!!

-Nick-

Sun May 15, 2011 6:57 pm

I have 2 bugs one with gauges and one with the stock indicators, gen lite and oil presure light. With gauges you can monitor the engine, why wait to add gauges. Oil temp oil pressure and tach are easy to do and you will continue to use them.
kepp it in proper tune and have all the engine sheet metal in place.

Sun May 15, 2011 7:01 pm

if you feel you must choose one temperature gauge, I recommend a cylinder head temperature gauge... Oil temperature and head temperature are not linear, and are barely related.... head temperature can spike nearly instantly, whereas oil temperature takes some time to build up....

Mon May 16, 2011 10:01 am

I personally like having a temp gauge, it just gives that extra piece of mind when driving. At first I was concerned too about the high reffs but you get use to it when driving some distance in fourth at 70 mph. Was told they like the higher reffs.

Also I did install a temp gauge for the oil and on short trips it doesn't even register.

Mon May 16, 2011 11:50 am

danlewister wrote: Thanks for the info! I didn't really consider from what the temperature is being measured. When I rebuilt the engine I decided to install a slightly larger oil pump to help keep the temp down, but I suppose I increased the oil pressure through the rest of the engine as well.
why do you think a larger oil pump will reduce oil temperature? :?: