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Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:40 am

Just wash out that whole system with new parts and you'll be fine- There should only be dust in there not mud pie.

Extreme brake adjustment problems can possibly cause leakage, but not to likely- look forward to new brakes, not backward to the PO.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:11 am

KailuaVeeDub wrote:

Hi just discovered my wheel cylinder is bad. But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear. Curious if maybe is wasn't adjusted properly by PO. This is my first time working on drum brakes. So taking it slow and careful.

Aloha

Wow!! Great pictures!!

Now MY stupid question.

It would be logical that the rear most brake shoe would incur the greater wear, since that is the one that plays the greater role in stopping the forward motion of the bus.

So, would it be prudent to "rotate the rear brake shoe" as a matter of PMS (Preventive Maintenance Service - an old Navy term!!), when it is convenient.

Honeybus sends New Year Greetings to one and all!

Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:26 am

KailuaVeeDub wrote:
Hi just discovered my wheel cylinder is bad.

But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear.

Curious if maybe is wasn't adjusted properly by PO.

This is my first time working on drum brakes. So taking it slow and careful.

Aloha

Hi!!

You said / asked " But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear.

I don't expect them to be typical for normal wear. Your shoes are not excessively worn. Just my opinion.

Now, are those shavings magnetic? Can you capture that glob of shavings, and clean them up to see what they may really be? Shoes and pads yield brake dust, not brake shavings.

Where might these shavings come from, the actual wheel drum?

Good hunting.

Honeybus

Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:29 am

:shock: as none of those wear surfaces wear equal and the shoes tend to twist slightly to match the drum, I think that reversing them would require turning the drum to even out the surface and remove the grooves in the shoes - so- might as well just do a full on brake job.

Just switching the shoes would give you worse braking till they rapidly wear into their new positions.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:51 am

'morning all!

(1) Valves should be adjusted COLD Y/N

(2) Solid lifter valves are adjusted to some clearance or 'valve lash?'; hyd lifter valves are set to some 'turn of adjusting screw'

(3)Solid lifter valves are adjusted with some kind of voodoo chanting, like 'adjust intake valve when exhaust valve is is just closing or just opening or just past opening or ... '

(4) but on hyd lifter valves, it is really simple, right? just get the timing mark on 0 degrees; look to see which cylinder the rotor is pointing to, and adjust, at the same time, both the exhaust and intake valves on that cylinder to 1 1/2 or 2 turns.

Rotate engine 180 degrees, and adjust the next cylinder (as indicated by the rotor)? This assumes you have TWO marks on your pulley, on for cyls 1 & 3, a second for cyl 2 & 4.

Am I right on (4)? If yes,then my stupid question is this:::::

Since hydraulic valve adjustment allows your choice of either 1 1/2 and 2 turns of adjusting screw, which allows for some non-precision (unlike the solid lifter valves), would I have screwed up royally if I adjusted the hydraulic lifter valves when I had the timing mark(s) pointed at 12 noon, the crack in the case, instead of 0 on the timing scale?

Outch!!

Is this the most stupid question of 2018 (please, don't embarrass me with reference to earlier years' posts)?

honeybus

Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:38 am

honeybus wrote:
Since hydraulic valve adjustment allows your choice of either 1 1/2 and 2 turns of adjusting screw, which allows for some non-precision (unlike the solid lifter valves), would I have screwed up royally if I adjusted the hydraulic lifter valves when I had the timing mark(s) pointed at 12 noon, the crack in the case, instead of 0 on the timing scale?

You just need to be on the base circle for the valve you are adjusting, basically this means that so long as you are within 90° of TDC compression for the valve you are adjusting you are golden. The case split is within 90° of the timing mark so you should be fine.

The real trick for the uninitiated when setting hydraulic lifters is finding the point of zero lash as it can be very subtle. Back the adjusting screw out sufficiently and then turn the screw in using only your fingers feeling careful for the first contact. Very lightly rocking the rocker can help let you know you are getting close to the contact point. Sometimes the point of contact is very noticeable and sometimes very slight, even for the same valve. Once you find the point of zero contact then turn the screw in further. I recommend going at least one full turn to allow for wear in the system, either 1 1/2 or 2 is fine in my book.

The engine doesn't need to be stone cold to adjust hydraulic lifters, nor do the lifters need to be fully pumped up. In cold weather like much of the country is having, I would run the engine until it is warm and then shut it off and come back in 30 minutes or so once the engine as cooled to where I will not get burnt and do the adjustment on a luke warm engine. Fingers just work better this way.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:42 am

honeybus wrote: 'morning all!

(1) Valves should be adjusted COLD Y/N

(2) Solid lifter valves are adjusted to some clearance or 'valve lash?'; hyd lifter valves are set to some 'turn of adjusting screw'

(3)Solid lifter valves are adjusted with some kind of voodoo chanting, like 'adjust intake valve when exhaust valve is is just closing or just opening or just past opening or ... '

(4) but on hyd lifter valves, it is really simple, right? just get the timing mark on 0 degrees; look to see which cylinder the rotor is pointing to, and adjust, at the same time, both the exhaust and intake valves on that cylinder to 1 1/2 or 2 turns.

Rotate engine 180 degrees, and adjust the next cylinder (as indicated by the rotor)? This assumes you have TWO marks on your pulley, on for cyls 1 & 3, a second for cyl 2 & 4.

Am I right on (4)? If yes,then my stupid question is this:::::

Since hydraulic valve adjustment allows your choice of either 1 1/2 and 2 turns of adjusting screw, which allows for some non-precision (unlike the solid lifter valves), would I have screwed up royally if I adjusted the hydraulic lifter valves when I had the timing mark(s) pointed at 12 noon, the crack in the case, instead of 0 on the timing scale?

Outch!!

Is this the most stupid question of 2018 (please, don't embarrass me with reference to earlier years' posts)?

honeybus
Adjusting both intake and exhaust when that cylinder is at TDC applies to both solid and hydro, no voodoo required. Setting when the mark is at the seam isn't horrible, there's enough leeway on the cam lobes that they would still be near thier lowest points, I wouldn't sweat it for hydros and just leave it, I would double check solids once you had a scale installed.
Making the second 180 degree mark on the pulley isn't difficult, measure equal distances each side from the existing mark.

Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:44 am

honeybus wrote: KailuaVeeDub wrote:
Hi just discovered my wheel cylinder is bad.

But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear.

Curious if maybe is wasn't adjusted properly by PO.

This is my first time working on drum brakes. So taking it slow and careful.

Aloha

Hi!!

You said / asked " But I'm curious if all of those black shavings (I assume from brake shoes) are typical for normal wear.

I don't expect them to be typical for normal wear. Your shoes are not excessively worn. Just my opinion.

Now, are those shavings magnetic? Can you capture that glob of shavings, and clean them up to see what they may really be? Shoes and pads yield brake dust, not brake shavings.

Where might these shavings come from, the actual wheel drum?

Good hunting.

Honeybus
The little "slivers" are brake dust combined with fluid that have rolled up like little elongated boogers between the drum and shoes, nothing abnormal. The shoes are toast if they have been soaked that badly though.

Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:30 pm

Stupid question - is there a better way to attach these round air tubes from the fan to the oblong hole in the tinware? Sick of re-attaching them! Sorry for the lousy photo. Tx.

Tue Jan 02, 2018 6:51 pm

Disko72 wrote: Stupid question - is there a better way to attach these round air tubes from the fan to the oblong hole in the tinware? Sick of re-attaching them!
I'm not sure what's going on with that duct tape, are those repurposed 50 mm type 1 tubes?, real type 4 tubes are larger and available from reputable suppliers, the RH one even comes with an ovalled end.

Originally VW supplied some neat quick release clamps (#12 & #13 below) that got lost by most owners for some reason, try Thebusco.com or Bustedbus and see if they have any. If not the worm clamps work OK but require tools to release, you'll also need some grommets to go between the tin and metal tubes.

Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:23 am

busdaddy wrote: you'll also need some grommets to go between the tin and metal tubes.

Thanks Busdaddy. Are these the correct grommets, or will they work? I found the correct tubes on CIP, havent found those clips yet - will keep looking. Duct tape was a "get me home" solution. Apologies for my ignorance - I'm learning!

https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-021-119-627-B
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-021-119-337

Many thanks for all your help, and happy new year!
David

Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:51 am

Disko72 wrote: busdaddy wrote: you'll also need some grommets to go between the tin and metal tubes.

Thanks Busdaddy. Are these the correct grommets, or will they work? I found the correct tubes on CIP, havent found those clips yet - will keep looking. Duct tape was a "get me home" solution. Apologies for my ignorance - I'm learning!

https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-021-119-627-B
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-021-119-337

Many thanks for all your help, and happy new year!
David
Yes those are the grommets, the clamps are not available new anywhere I'm aware of, regular worm style hose clamps work OK as well.

Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:30 pm

Ignition switch doesn't work. Key turns freely and loosely around, there's no resistance and you can't feel the different positions, and no electronics turn on (they work once you bypass wiring from the ignition).
Is the problem the switch itself? Or the key barrel? Or both? Thanks

Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:39 pm

maz-o wrote: Ignition switch doesn't work. Key turns freely and loosely around, there's no resistance and you can't feel the different positions, and no electronics turn on (they work once you bypass wiring from the ignition).
Is the problem the switch itself? Or the key barrel? Or both? Thanks

If I was going to tear into it, I would want both parts on hand.

Thu Jan 04, 2018 6:38 pm

In preparation for the trip to BBB in a few days, I've been doing a few things to Chloe to help ensure a trouble-free trip. And this afternoon, I replaced the two battery cables.

Simple enough, right? It took me about an hour since I wanted to make sure all the connections were clean and tight, and cables were routed the way I want. Plus I rotated the battery so the positive is toward the rear of the compartment, and less likely to bounce up and hit metal in case of accident or hitting a major bump.

In addition, I have learned from The Samba to perform one task at a time, then do a test drive to make sure all is okay before doing a second task. This makes troubleshooting easier in case a problem pops up.

So after replacing the two cables and making sure everything was clean and tight, I started the engine. Huh... the alternator light came on dimly. Okay, sometimes it does that when I first start it in the morning, but goes out as soon as I step on the gas. But this afternoon, the light stayed on (dim) when I hit the gas. And then I took a drive around the block with the same result.

Before automatically coming to the Stupid Question thread, I checked the owner's manual. It said either the alternator has stopped charging or there is a blown fuse. All fuses are good (except Robbie just noticed I am missing the fuse and wire going to the back up lights), so there may be something with the alternator. I was VERY careful not to connect the cables backwards, and also was VERY careful when connecting the battery to make sure I didn't short the positive to ground.

The only anomaly I've found is when the negative is connected, there is a slight spark between the clamp and post. I've never noticed it doing that before, but I don't need to disconnect the battery very often. (I've disconnected the battery for now so I don't find it dead in the morning.)

:?: Does anyone have an idea what may be causing the alternator light to come on dimly?

Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:15 pm

Maybe a poor ground connection? Did you use dielectric grease on all your connections? I'd go through and just make sure all the connections are clean. Or to test, if wiggle the wire really well and just make sure it's connecting well. The negative and positive terminals and initial connections you made. If that doesn't work, out comes the ohmmeter for testing per the Bentley

Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:22 pm

You can get a tiny spark from your stereo. As you hook it up it will momentarily draw a bit of extra power as its capacitors charge. Pull the fuse of the stereo and see if that corrects the problem.

A dim charge light means that there is a voltage differential between the alternator and the #15 side of the ignition switch. Could be between the battery and the ignition switch or in the switch, or a heavier load than normal passed the switch. Never discount a grounds causing a problem. :cry:

Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:22 pm

Thanks Spike. Yes, I used a thin smear of dielectric grease on all the connections I touched. (Didn't touch the transmission ground yet, though.)
And gave the two clamps a good twist on the posts to make sure there was no movement.
I'll climb under again tomorrow to double check the connection at the starter. I greased that up and tightened it, but didn't go back and verify. That may be the weak link. Thanks!

Good idea, WildThang... I'll check the stereo tomorrow also. I never listen to it anyway...

Thu Jan 04, 2018 9:16 pm

Double check the plug on your voltage regulator after that bozo in the boot pulled it out last week. Make sure it’s seated all the way in, and give it a careful unplug then plug for good measure. (Usually that can clean the contacts just enough to be useful.)

Bozo

Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:42 am

Do a draw test at the neg post,then start pulling fuses.