TheSamba.com :: View topic - Help w/ keyless entry/alarm wiring for Starter defeat

Tue May 17, 2011 9:39 pm

With my new keyless entry alarm system, i'm stuck on one wire that says the following: "ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500 mA. The ORANGE wire provides a ground output while armed to activate an optional starter defeat relay or other device such as a power window control module."

Theres quite a few wires that i can't hook up, say the "Truck/Hood Trigger Input" one, because, obviously, our trunks are of the strictly "manual/mechanical" fashion. It seems like I should be able to wire starter one into my car though, and i'm pretty sure it also is necessary for the "lock doors on ignition" feature.

I was wondering if anyone else has managed to wire up this feature on their car.. the directions are a little vague to me :)

(71 super beetle)

Wed May 18, 2011 12:57 pm

With a basic understanding of elictrical circuits, some pin switches, and relays, you could probably use all or a majority of the functions of your KE system. If I'm not mistaken, the orange lead usually activates the parking lamps to confirm arm/disarm. I currently have a '71 super, and I'm installing a code alarm pro 400 system in mine, with plans on installing actuators to open the fuel door, and possibly mounting up a starter solenoid to release the front hood latch. If you need to reverse the polarity of an output, use a relay to accomplish this. Good luck, I hope this helps you out. :D

Wed May 18, 2011 2:33 pm

The starter cut relay is easy to hook up, all it does is cut the flow through the starter wire from the ignition switch when the alarms activated but unless you can hide it somewhere good it's a pointless exercise.

Trunk/Hood Trigger Input isnt for remote release, its for the switch that triggers the alarm if it's opened.
The front hood of bug requires some thinking to mount one but the decklid is easy, I just use one of the holes beside the rubber bumpstop.

What you're thinking of is remote trunk release, that isn't real hard to hook up, I've had it in mine for years, just using a trunk release solenoid from a late 90s GM car.

Even the central closure can be made to work in a VW, thats the one that puts up the power windows but it's abit of a wank, I wouldnt bother, leave it for the BMW boys get their jollys doing it at the gas station.

Oh yeah on most of the alarms I've fitted the anti hijack door lock system is hooked to the brake light wiring, first time the brakes are applied once the car is started locks the doors then they unlock once you turn the ignition back off.

Wed May 18, 2011 3:19 pm

Joel wrote: Oh yeah on most of the alarms I've fitted the anti hijack door lock system is hooked to the brake light wiring, first time the brakes are applied once the car is started locks the doors then they unlock once you turn the ignition back off.

I like this idea! The reason I asked about which place to hook this wire is because I want this feature. There's really no other wire with a description that relates to ignition, so I figured the orange one is what i need to hook up, but I didn't know exactly WHERE to put it.. I'm not really interested in hooking up fancy remote trunk release or anything, but I do like the idea for the engine hood sensor..
The things i'm most concerned with though are the "lock on ignition" feature, or brakes or whenever, and I want the alarm to go off when the doors are opened. I think i picked the wrong wire for the door open trigger, It had descriptions on one to use when the door circuit is grounded when open vs. 12v when open..

Wed May 18, 2011 4:27 pm

Alarms can vary so much from manufacturer to manufacturer but there is usually a few things that are similar

all alarms have a negative door trigger, you just tap into the line from one of the door switches but some also have a positive one as well.

Nearly all kits come with a hood trigger like this

Just fit it to the hole in the apron under the decklid and make sure it presses when shut.

All alarms have an igntion wire, its usually grey, thats how they know the car is running and not to arm.

Most of my Rhino alarms have a programmable feature for anti hi-jack, the doors lock 15 secs after car starts but others its once the brake is pressed, it should explain in the manual for it.

but the Orange wire is just for the starter immobilisor relay.

Wed May 18, 2011 5:06 pm

could you help me figure out which one should be wired where? heres a link to the manual that i'm using for my alarm system. (Scytek A10) It's definitely not a high tech alarm compared to some systems i've seen available.

http://www.scytek.net/manuals/astra/a10.pdf

edit*
so far, off the 8pin harness i've only wired the Brown and Violet wires.

for the door thing, do i just need to switch it to the green, or do both the green and violet need to be connected for that function?

Fri May 20, 2011 3:52 am

Yep swap the violet for green, VWs use negative for the door switch not postive.

rest is pretty simple depending on which options you want to hook up

orange is just the earth for a relay if you immobilise the starter circuit

Green is the door triggers

Blue is the trigger for decklid and hood if you fit trigger switches for them

just the obvious ones like black ground, red constant 12volts, yellow is ignition 12 volts etc

Then all the optional stuff like parker lights, dome light, horn etc.

Looks like the anti-jack has a few different settings but works on ignition being turned on rather than a time delay or brake press.

I don't really like that setup, would be possible for it to lock you out.

Fri May 20, 2011 6:04 am

Just to be clear on your optional features, you can decide on whether they are worth the trouble or not.

The parking lights are useful when the system is armed/disarmed. They will flash once when you arm the system and flash twice when disarmed. These lights will also flash when the alarm is tripped in addition to the siren to attract attention to the thievery.

The horn wire would of course add the horn to the siren and (through manual settings in the unit) honk when armed/disarmed. I spent the better part of 9+ years installing remote starters and security systems and most people find this horn honk feature annoying. The unit has a siren so use that.

Black/white, domelight, would turn on the domelight when you disarm the system allowing lighted entry into your car. Not too useful but nice for a dark parking lot.

The other wires are pretty basic for your locks and door triggers and the hint about the hood pin is spot on. Good luck.

Sat May 21, 2011 12:15 am

Thanks for the clarification, but i have new info since i've started driving it. My first drive was at night, so i didn't know this was a problem yet. I haven't changed any wiring since posting this, so here goes: The doors lock on ingition... well only when i have the headlights turned on. They lock maybe 5-10 seconds after turning them on. If i switch my highbeams on, then it unlocks the doors, and once i turn them off, the doors lock again after that 5-10 seconds or so. Talk about funny huh. The doors wont lock if i drive around during the day (w/o headlights)

So I guess I wired the white wire to the wrong thing... but theres something more important that concerns me: basically i was cruising around and randomly i got a short and my turn signal buzzer stays on solid just buzzing and the gen. light is on. I haven't had a lot of time to look at it, but heres everything that i know about this so far: 1. windshield wipers dont' work.
2. the turn signals act normal if i have them on, or the emergency flashers, but when i turn them off, the thing goes right back to buzzing.
3. I've replaced the fuse a couple of times and one time it just blew right when i turned on the ignition, and the next time the turn signal arrows stayed illuminated and the buzzing continued, but the gen. light stayed off - that is until it shorted several hundred feet down the road. It's in the circuit that has three wires connected to it:
1. pretty thick black wire that goes to ? (steering column on wiring diagram?)
2. Green wire - goes to windshield wiper knob
3. aftermarket 12v on ign. oil temp gauge.

the temp gauge wire is definitely not shorting...
anyone that can help identify where the black one goes?

(i'm going to photoshop a pic of the wiring diagram to help with making my question clear)

Sat May 21, 2011 12:20 am

Fuse that is blowing is circled and unknown wire "destination" is pointed out.
forgot to mention: alternator conversion - internally regulated

Sat May 21, 2011 5:16 am

That black wire is the power from the igintion switch for the ignition circuit powering coil, instrumentation, etc

Its unfused too so any short will result in melted wires.

It;s wierd that this alarms connects to the parkers, 99% of alarms connect to the turn signals instead for visual arming/disarming but if you hook to the parkers you need to connect to the bottom side of #1 or 2 fuses.

Where have you hooked the yellow wire too?

Sat May 21, 2011 9:47 am

If you number the fuses 1-12 from left to right I have it on #3 on *top* (when looking in car from inside hood it on the right and on bottom)

I have the white one hooked up to the one immediately to the yellows right. (#2)

Sun May 22, 2011 5:10 am

Something sounds astray there
Wouldnt 1 to the right of #3 be #4?

anychance you can get a pic of the fusebox wiring like this?

Mon May 23, 2011 4:20 pm

Update!: I figured out the short was caused by the power from the dual circuit brake warning light wire (i didn't see it hiding behind the green power wire for the windshield wiper switch) once i saw where that secret wire headed to, i knew immediately what was shorting. I unhooked and left the wires chillin there when i installed the security light and "valet" switch

I also did some rearranging to the yellow 12v on ignition wire for the alarm so now it locks when i turn on the ignition properly. Thanks for the help guys :)

One last note: I also switched the door trigger switches and tried to open the door when the alarm was active but it didn't set off the alarm.. I'll have to play with that one a little more some other time. I'm just mostly glad i figured out where the short was 8)