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Mon May 23, 2011 2:00 pm

A while ago when starting my 2.0 aircooled with jumper cables a loud bang occurred. I was a bit worried but after that it sounded like it used to. Started driving it for a few km's. Nothing seemed to be wrong. After stopping at a traffic light the engine died, and was really hard to crank. I got it running but was a bit afraid to drive it again.

I charged the battery and took another test, nothing wrong until I backed up on the driveway. It made a metal touching metal noise in reverse. I tried shifting forward, 1st en 2th gear didnt work. 3rd and 4th were ok.
After a bit of wiggling and pushing the clutch 1st and 2th came back.

Afraid something broke down in the the transmission (and i wanted to clean the engine and transmission anyway) i took it out. In the clutchhousing i found these pieces and saw some scratching that looked recent.

The small pieces were lying in some oil, looks to be from a bearing. the big metal pieces was around the axle coming out of the transmission

Here you see some scratching.

There is some movement in all directions possible from the axle coming out of the transmission. Is that normal?
Recently the clutch was replaced by the PO.

Someone has any idea where to look, what to check?

Mon May 23, 2011 2:20 pm

That looks like pieces of a pilot bearing to me.

Mon May 23, 2011 2:31 pm

Alaric.H wrote: That looks like pieces of a pilot bearing to me.
Yup

Mon May 23, 2011 2:57 pm

That's not so hard to replace is it? Tomorrow I'll have a look at it.

Mon May 23, 2011 4:32 pm

MAKE SURE THE OIL SLINGER IS STILL PROPERLY SEATED IN THE BELL HOUSING.

When the pilot bearing fails it almost always knackers the slinger and if the slinger is loose, it will cause the seal to fail, soil the clutch, etc.... and you'll be doing it all again, and again, and again until it is repaired.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=342440

Mon May 23, 2011 6:27 pm

Things have obviously been pretty hot in there. I would guess the bearing shell may well have welded itself to the bore in the crank. They are a b*#ch to get out when that happens. Make sure you get a new felt seal and a new seal retainer as you will fling grease all over your clutch disc if you do not. You can also use a Diesel pilot bearing with uses a lip type seal, takes a bit more work to install but less likely to fail IMO. Search for Libby's post on how to do this.

Tue May 24, 2011 12:02 am

Thnx for the help, let's see if we can fix it today.

Tue May 24, 2011 11:09 am

Owch. (re: image of PB leftovers) ;)

Check that the throw out bearing tube (sleeve) has not been affected and/or bolts loose. Bolts are low torque each with a tooth type lock washer. Likely a "loose" input shaft would not flop that far, but if it knocked that sleeve.....

Neil.

Tue May 24, 2011 12:00 pm

Well after cleaning up the engine bay, removing 3 buckets of sand and rust, and preparing the rust for paint I started on the transmission.

Don't have pictures if it but the suggested guide was very helpful. Took the bellhousing off and that metal oil thing was loose. Pushed it out with a screwdriver and ordered a new one at the dealer (my neighbour 8) ).

After that I started on the engine, taking the clutchplate and flywheel of (which was a bitch without the right tools). Discovered more and more needles from that PB, and its looks to be gone :oops:

Poor thing!
Getting it out is for another day, any tips or should save myself some time and get a special tool?

Tue May 24, 2011 12:20 pm

"getting it out"

The crank end oil seal?

Use a tool like this

The PB should be totally affordable.

Tue May 24, 2011 12:34 pm

It's recommended to replace the crank-end oil seal as wel right? then I'll remove it and order a new one as well.

Getting the remains of the PB out is going be a small nightmare, i tried it for a bit and it's really stuck.

Tue May 24, 2011 12:52 pm

I've used a dremel to remove them, but be very nice the the crank surface when cutting thru

I've since bought a HF blind hole pilot bearing puller..
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

anyone elses prices are many times that of HF though quality may be better, the HF one has served very well in more than a few bad bearings.

Tue May 24, 2011 1:44 pm

Vanagon Nut wrote: "getting it out"

The crank end oil seal?

Use a tool like this

The PB should be totally affordable. This tool has less chance for a nice scratch

Tue May 24, 2011 3:31 pm

Alaric.H wrote: Vanagon Nut wrote: "getting it out"

The crank end oil seal?

Use a tool like this

The PB should be totally affordable. This tool has less chance for a nice scratch

What's that bottom tool called and where can I get one?

Tue May 24, 2011 4:05 pm

VW Fanman wrote: Alaric.H wrote: Vanagon Nut wrote: "getting it out"

The crank end oil seal?

Use a tool like this

The PB should be totally affordable. This tool has less chance for a nice scratch

What's that bottom tool called and where can I get one?

That bottom tool looks like a bicycle tire tool.
tp

Tue May 24, 2011 4:50 pm

VW Fanman wrote: Alaric.H wrote: Vanagon Nut wrote: "getting it out"

The crank end oil seal?

Use a tool like this

The PB should be totally affordable. This tool has less chance for a nice scratch

What's that bottom tool called and where can I get one? It is a tire iron used on a few jobs in the Bentley Page 13.39

http://www.samstagsales.com/hazet.htm#lug

Tue May 24, 2011 5:13 pm

Has anyone else used the grease and cord trick to remove pilot bearings? I was taught by a tech to fill the hole tightly with moly grease, and then take a small length of say 1/8" cord and coil it into the hole so that the combo is free of all air gaps. Then take an old input shaft and insert it until resistance is felt; now pound the end with a series of sharp blows with a mallet. This should drive the pilot bearing out after a few whacks. Has always worked for me, though probably not in a case where the bearing has imploded like this.

Fri May 27, 2011 2:06 am

After 2 nights of thinking how to get it out, i was able working on it again.
Decided to use some sort of bold (dont know the english name) you use in concrete walls, the end expands when you pull it. My dad had one laying around and after welding some bolt together to extend the tread it was out in 15 minutes using a crowbar.

Fri May 27, 2011 5:13 am

Cool, good use of available resources.