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inorganic Wed Jan 23, 2019 11:58 am

Aryana - this is a really smart build. I have a small electric leak some where which means I access the battery to charge somewhat frequently. A couple of questions =

(1) Where did you get that connector?

(2) It looks like your negative/ground to the connector goes from the terminal (via braided copper wire) to a nut bolted to frame - is that correct?

Aryana wrote: Swivel seat installed in my tintop with access to the battery via a remote quick connector out the front of the pedestal. It’s very easy to reach in under the seat and plug it in. If you wanted to, you could cut out the front wall of the pedestal to give you even more access to the connector from the front (like the OP of this thread showed).

If you don't like that setup, you can always cut a hole and mount the plug on top of the pedestal just outboard of the battery cover. You'd have to cut a hole in the cover to allow the cables to pass through outside of the pedestal. I have a young child and preferred having the connector hidden away.








syncrodoka Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:31 pm

That is a Anderson SB connector or some copy of it.

I shortened the plate and welded reinforcement on it to make battery access and removable possible.

inorganic Wed Jan 23, 2019 4:23 pm

Thanks for the info about the cord.

Your approach sounds interesting. Can you share any photos of it? I have a welder and plenty of steel to over engineer solutions!

syncrodoka wrote: That is a Anderson SB connector or some copy of it.

I shortened the plate and welded reinforcement on it to make battery access and removable possible.

Aryana Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:59 pm

1.) I bought the cord from the Samba famous, Terry Kay

Scroll near the end of this page to “Vanagon Permanent Mount 12 Volt Jumper Cable Plug & Cables”. Make sure you’re really polite and don’t ask too many questions or else he can get a bit upset and may start to blow you off even if you want to buy something.

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com/

2.) Yes, the ground strap is bolted to the chassis as you describe.

vanagonjr Thu Jan 24, 2019 4:37 pm

Aryana wrote: 1.) I bought the cord from the Samba famous, Terry Kay.... Make sure you’re really polite and don’t ask too many questions or else he can get a bit upset and may start to blow you off even if you want to buy something.
.

Aryana Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:16 pm

LOL!

Exactly :D

floodwood Tue Dec 15, 2020 10:41 am

Has anyone installed this swivel converter recently?

A quick call to bus depot informed me that the swivel base will hang over the battery cover by 1-2", and that the easiest solution is to disconnect the battery box hinge, essentially allowing you to slide the cover off rather than "hinge" it off.

Does anybody have any pictures of their install so I can ensure the swivel base won't interfere with my battery terminals as well?

Link to busdepot product: https://www.busdepot.com/59500

Cheers!

Wellington Tue Dec 15, 2020 4:16 pm

That connector is a typical forklift connector.

DuncanS Tue Dec 15, 2020 4:41 pm



And you can also mount it at 90º without a swivel. Had a turntable once, but got rid of it as it eliminated the under seat storage--at least for my usage. Careful grinding is all it takes, but you can't drive with it sideways. Not secure enough, but fine for lounging.

Slimvest Tue Dec 15, 2020 5:12 pm

floodwood wrote: Has anyone installed this swivel converter recently?

A quick call to bus depot informed me that the swivel base will hang over the battery cover by 1-2", and that the easiest solution is to disconnect the battery box hinge, essentially allowing you to slide the cover off rather than "hinge" it off.

Does anybody have any pictures of their install so I can ensure the swivel base won't interfere with my battery terminals as well?

Link to busdepot product: https://www.busdepot.com/59500

Cheers!

Had mine for a number of years. Fine for what it is. Does it's job but has some drawbacks. It's very tight getting jumper cables on the battery terminals. I have an OEM swivel I'm meaning to weld in at some point.

Squidfish Tue Dec 15, 2020 9:05 pm

floodwood wrote: Has anyone installed this swivel converter recently?


I did mine last week and you will need to modify your lid to work. I removed my hinge years back and would agree, sliding it out is the best method to work with. The terminals are quite close to the edge of the swivel base/covering them halfway; I like the idea of the quick connect terminal as shown in the thread above, especially under the seat (I have children too that it would dangerous to have out). :vw:

jimf909 Tue Dec 15, 2020 10:28 pm

vanagonjr wrote: Aryana wrote: 1.) I bought the cord from the Samba famous, Terry Kay.... Make sure you’re really polite and don’t ask too many questions or else he can get a bit upset and may start to blow you off even if you want to buy something.
.


Here's how that's done..
:wink: :lol:

Aryana Wed Dec 16, 2020 11:40 am

jimf909 wrote: vanagonjr wrote: Aryana wrote: 1.) I bought the cord from the Samba famous, Terry Kay.... Make sure you’re really polite and don’t ask too many questions or else he can get a bit upset and may start to blow you off even if you want to buy something.
.


Here's how that's done..
:wink: :lol:


Belushi, Murray, and Aykroid were pure magic together! 👍🏼

floodwood Thu Dec 17, 2020 3:06 pm

Thanks all for the advise.

Would it be possible/advisable to simply cut out the portion of the swivel that gets in the way - cutting in-between the rail portion? Crappy drawing below.


DuncanS Fri Dec 18, 2020 7:25 am

Of course. I thought that's what everybody did. I did. Worked fine. The extra carpet can flap in the breeze just fine. It doesn't need supporting. Or cut that too if you like.

crazyvwvanman Fri Dec 18, 2020 9:03 am

You asked about cutting the swivel base plate so the full cover door can open. Cutting the battery cover door is preferable in my book. That is what I do when I install a front seat swivel assembly. The door hinge is held to the van by a few pop rivets. Drill the heads off the rivets, cut the door to fit, pop rivet it back where it was. Cut slightly more than what you think, so the carpet flap has room to flip too.

Mark


floodwood wrote:
.....Would it be possible/advisable to simply cut out the portion of the swivel that gets in the way - cutting in-between the rail portion?....

floodwood Fri Dec 18, 2020 10:42 am

crazyvwvanman wrote: You asked about cutting the swivel base plate so the full cover door can open. Cutting the battery cover door is preferable in my book. That is what I do when I install a front seat swivel assembly. The door hinge is held to the van by a few pop rivets. Drill the heads off the rivets, cut the door to fit, pop rivet it back where it was. Cut slightly more than what you think, so the carpet flap has room to flip too.

Mark


floodwood wrote:
.....Would it be possible/advisable to simply cut out the portion of the swivel that gets in the way - cutting in-between the rail portion?....

Thanks - my above post was in reference to the actual swivel seat base rather than the battery box.

My concern is more for battery access, whether the cover is removed so it slides off versus cutting the cover, it seems access to the actual battery will still be impeded if the swivel base is on.

This is why I am looking to see if it is feasible to cut into the actual swivel base itself. Is this possible without destroying the function of the swivel base?

DuncanS Fri Dec 18, 2020 8:56 pm

About 6 months ago, a guy sent a bunch of good posts and photos showing how he hinged the swivel base on one side. He had a pull out pin which allowed it to hinge up. This is the only way I would consider putting in a swivel seat. Interior storage is at a super premium and why would you give that up for the few times you want to swivel the seat? Far simpler to just install the seat backwards. If you drill out the pop rivets on the flap, the whole thing will hinge back on the carpet and give clearance for the seat slides so it can go in from the back as well. Remove the tabs which prevent this on the base slides. Also get rid of the spring thingy which keeps the seat from being able to go out the front without releasing it. Why would you ever need that?

IMHO, the swivel isn't worth it. Too expensive, robs stowage, screws up the batter location and raises the seat an uncomfortable inch. And not really needed with the mods I advocate.

syncrodoka Fri Dec 18, 2020 9:15 pm

syncrodoka wrote: I shortened the plate and welded reinforcement on it to make battery access and removable possible.

I lopped off the back and reinforced it with 1/8" angle. The battery comes straight up and out if needed. I don't have factory seat tracks on the swivel base any longer so that may be a consideration, I don't remember how far back those went on the platform.

floodwood Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:19 am

syncrodoka wrote: syncrodoka wrote: I shortened the plate and welded reinforcement on it to make battery access and removable possible.

I lopped off the back and reinforced it with 1/8" angle. The battery comes straight up and out if needed. I don't have factory seat tracks on the swivel base any longer so that may be a consideration, I don't remember how far back those went on the platform.

Thanks this is what I was looking for. Do you have any other pictures of your swivel?

The tracks come all the way back per bus depot's picture, but since the tracks are on either side of the battery box (battery box fits in between the tracks) - would just be looking to cut the metal between the tracks.



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