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Thu Nov 29, 2018 7:07 pm

G'day,
So this is where i am at after reading this thread (over a couple of days)
I have an early split, to fit 944 discs on the front I need to machine the hubs and get matching bearings to suit (there is a kit for this) I also need an adaptor kit to fit the caliper.

I am running beetle IRS on the rear so I can just bolt on the 944 backing plate, using the 944 bolts and the whole 944 disc package will work.

I have read and researched and think this is right?

I am going to buy the hubs and adaptor kit for the front (not sure from who yet any suggestions will be welcomed) but need the backing plate and calipers and the rears, where is best to source these from please?

Thank you for the thread, it has been a great help so far.

Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:23 pm

Well, I just ordered the AC kit for my '65. I hope it goes as smoothly as everyone says.

For those of y'all that have installed it, are there any gotchas or recommendations for other stuff that I should go ahead and order to have on hand for the upgrade?

Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:28 pm

The easiest set up I’ve done! As with any other when switching to dual master, reshaping the brake lines to fit is always a PITA. :?

Thu Dec 06, 2018 5:15 pm

pyrOman wrote: The easiest set up I’ve done! As with any other when switching to dual master, reshaping the brake lines to fit is always a PITA. :?

Hadn’t thought of that. Thank you.

Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:09 pm

pyrOman wrote: The easiest set up I’ve done! As with any other when switching to dual master, reshaping the brake lines to fit is always a PITA. :?

Finished up the install with only bleeding them left. It was indeed easy in every respect, with the line bending being the PITA as predicted. I didn’t have the bearing race install kit, so that was a harbor freight purchase. I also ordered the mightyvac bleeder tool since I’ve no one to help. I’m sure looking forward to trying them out.

If anyone is interested, I’m uploading various pics to my gallery.

Sun Dec 23, 2018 2:36 pm

The disc calipers have two bleeders, an upper and lower. Is there a prescribed method for these? Lower then upper? Upper then lower?

Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:07 am

zozo wrote: The disc calipers have two bleeders, an upper and lower. Is there a prescribed method for these? Lower then upper? Upper then lower?

IIRC, I just did the upper one. I’d be guessing the dual bit is so you can install them on either side, as in not “side specific”. :?

Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:06 pm

pyrOman wrote: zozo wrote: The disc calipers have two bleeders, an upper and lower. Is there a prescribed method for these? Lower then upper? Upper then lower?

IIRC, I just did the upper one. I’d be guessing the dual bit is so you can install them on either side, as in not “side specific”. :?

Works for me. It seems that any air in the system would rise to the top anyway. Thank you!

Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:20 am

Bought the MityVac kit to bleed it. Junk. The reservoir is a $0.05 piece of plastic that won’t hold a vacuum, so the whole kit is useless. Refund time, and manual bleeding like I should’ve done in the first place.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 9:08 am

zozo wrote: Bought the MityVac kit to bleed it. Junk.

I own over a dozen MityVacs that I use in class and all work great. I use them for bleeding brakes regularly, it's the best way to go. I owned a commercial garage and used them almost exclusively.

The last two buses I built I bled with a MityVac, brand new bone dry systems took just over a pint of fluid and less than 10 minutes to bleed to a hard pedal. There's a pic about halfway down this page if you care to look:

https://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&start=280

When I did the last AC disc conversion I think the MityVac would not overcome the rear check valve in the MC and I had to bleed them manually at the rear WC. It's not a junk MityVac, it's just how the system is set up, sometimes the MC check valve has a stronger spring in it.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 9:20 am

Agree completely .

One added note though, Sometimes a vacuum bleeder is not the best way to bleed drum brakes. Sometimes the vacuum that it takes to draw the fluid past the valve at the MC is higher than what it takes to draw air past the cups in the wheel cylinders. This can make it seem as though the system is full of air. Just make sure you always finish with a pressure (pump and hold) bleed in the end.

Gordo.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 10:10 am

In this case the pump would pull a great vacuum without the reservoir in place. Add the reservoir and no vacuum. That’s with the bleeder closed of course. To me, that sounds like the reservoir is leaking and preventing a vacuum from building. If I’m missing something, let me know. I’m rather obsessive about following instructions. I did that as well as watched countless YouTube videos. I feel confident that I’m “doing it correctly,” but am not adverse to finding out I’ve made a boneheaded mistake. I just want my brakes to be bled.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 10:53 am

FWIW, the vacuum type “bleeders” (suckers) do suck air through the bleeder spout threads as soon as you crack them open. I have used a bit of Teflon tape on the threads to minimize the issue. It’s still better to have help to bleed them properly. I’ve also use the vacuum pump when by myself but do bleed them again once someone shows up. 8)

Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:16 pm

1) You get yourself a wife
2) Have a kid
3) Wait 4-5 years
4) Have kid pump the brake pedal while you work the bleeders

Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:57 pm

Daddybus wrote: 1) You get yourself a wife
2) Have a kid
3) Wait 4-5 years
4) Have kid pump the brake pedal while you work the bleeders

This worked for my father, and I have finally reached the same conclusion. Note: disconnect horn wire while under vehicle hahaha.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 1:59 pm

62DoKaGuy wrote: Daddybus wrote: 1) You get yourself a wife
2) Have a kid
3) Wait 4-5 years
4) Have kid pump the brake pedal while you work the bleeders

This worked for my father, and I have finally reached the same conclusion. Note: disconnect horn wire while under vehicle hahaha.

That's funny...

Also don't put a "dick" in the front seat that even though they say they are holding, they're not. Then they wait for you to get a closer look at why there is no flow to push real hard on the pedal... I've had help from a few "dicks" over the years.
Best to use your kids, though only if they have an ounce of respect for you.

Gordo.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 5:21 pm

I used the bottle and hose method and have about 1/2 pedal. Found a minuscule leak and fixed it. I enlisted the help of my granddaughter for a few minutes, but that’s a hard sell on Christmas Day when you’re a kid. I’m getting no air from the back, just solid stream of clear fluid. That’s when she was helping me. No visibility on what the front is doing, I was alone for those. I think with a little help and the conventional old school method, it’ll be fine.

Btw, my wife and daughter are disabled. The other daughter lives elsewhere. I’ve learned to do most things without help, that’s why I was hopeful for the MityVac.

Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:32 pm

A tip to verify that you have no air is to lock the drums tight with the adjusters prior to bleeding. Upon doing this, if you have a low pedal it almost has to be air rather than drum adjustment/shoe fit, etc. With the shoes locked you'll get a rock-hard and high pedal when bled properly, once you're convinced the air is gone, adjust the shoes normally. Don't forget to check your MC pushrod adjustment, it should be 1mm slack at the rod, I can't believe how many VWs I see with that way out of spec.

Tue Jan 01, 2019 3:54 pm

I’m getting zero bubbles and have bled via the pumping, the one man method, and the MityVac at least a dozen times. I’m getting no bubbles at all, but I still don’t feel like I’m getting the pedal I should have. I adjusted the rears all the way out, etc etc.

How can I measure the pushrod clearance? When I push/pull it manually, there’s a very slight movement and a click that I assume is the rod making contact. Very minimal movement, but I can’t say for certain it’s 1mm.

Thoughts?

(And no, I didn’t bench bleed the MC.)

Tue Jan 01, 2019 5:27 pm

zozo wrote: I’m getting zero bubbles and have bled via the pumping, the one man method, and the MityVac at least a dozen times. I’m getting no bubbles at all, but I still don’t feel like I’m getting the pedal I should have. I adjusted the rears all the way out, etc etc.

How can I measure the pushrod clearance? When I push/pull it manually, there’s a very slight movement and a click that I assume is the rod making contact. Very minimal movement, but I can’t say for certain it’s 1mm.

Thoughts?

(And no, I didn’t bench bleed the MC.)

Are you using a dual master cylinder? Does it have a small fitting at the top? If it does crack that a bit while someone applies pressure to The pedal.